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Couple of problems


Psylentzer

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Hey there guys, just got a few problems with the B4, not too sure how bad they are so i\'ll chuck them on here.

1. In my \'02 Legacy, I\'m having problems related with the Heating Console. Whenever I turn it on, the CEL comes on and the car shudders, I tried it today and it drained the battery. Is it the battery giving out or something else?

2. The Low fuel gauge light is coming on at strange times. The car currently is sitting on the second to last bar and the light is on. Is this a hard fix/ how should I judge the approx amount?

Cheers

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I have a similar issue with the fuel gauge sometimes where it will suddenly go to zero even if it\'s got a full tank.

From other people I\'ve spoken to it\'s bad solder on the back of the instrument cluster.

I haven\'t bothered / had time to take it out and have it redone as of yet.

Not sure about the other one though would be interested to know what the CEL is.

Is the A/C coming on when you turn on the heating ?

Could be something to do with the pump might be stuffed and when it\'s engaging it\'s putting extra strain on the engine possibly.

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Nah, I live down here in Chch.

Yea the A/C comes on when turned anything is regarding the A/C console. It shudders maybe every 10 seconds, and then the CEL comes on. Worries me a bit, I havn\'t used it since, don\'t want to do any damage. Do you think it would have something to do with the battery?

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It won\'t be the battery itself - once the car is running it doesn\'t really have a part to play (the alternator "takes over" basically) - the battery only has a job to do for starting the car or running electrics when the engine isn\'t running

Sounds like something is shorting out (maybe) when power is on to the heating thingy?

If nothing else find out what code the CEL is putting out, that will at least point you in the right direction.

If the pump was seized the belt either would snap from friction or be making a hell of a racket slipping (then snap) - if it is just half jammed up it "shouldn\'t" put enough strain on the motor to make it struggle but its a quick enough job to remove the belt and find out I suppose

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Let us know how it goes. My B4 shudders a little as the air con loads up the engine - but the idle air control valve should bump up your idle to compensate for the A/C pump coming online.

If the IACV is blocked/Faulty it could be causing the CEL. Id recommend cleaning it BUT you MUST make sure you have a new gasket before you remove the housing on top of throttle body as the rubber on the old gasket swells with age and you wont be able to use it again...Also recommend some wd40 on the factory screws and a love tap on screwdriver before trying to unscrew - they\'re Very Tight!

As far as the battery drain goes - how old/what type of battery is it? Check usual stuff - connections/ grounding points and batt terminals to ensure proper charge.

Reading the code would be the place to start tho...

Marcus

B4_685 via Tapatalk HD

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Rubber O-Ring is shaped kinda funny- has 3 chambers - I couldn\'t for the life of me get it back in its proper position as it swelled up and wouldn\'t go back in and seal properly

B4_685 via Tapatalk

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 Marky said:

It won\'t be the battery itself - once the car is running it doesn\'t really have a part to play (the alternator "takes over" basically) - the battery only has a job to do for starting the car or running electrics when the engine isn\'t running

Where did you learn this crap from?. If you think this is ok, then go start your car, then remove the battery and see what happens :D

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 mondo']

[quote name='Marky said:

It won\'t be the battery itself - once the car is running it doesn\'t really have a part to play (the alternator "takes over" basically) - the battery only has a job to do for starting the car or running electrics when the engine isn\'t running

/quote]

Where did you learn this crap from?. If you think this is ok, then go start your car, then remove the battery and see what happens :D

Yip nothing happens. Providing your alternators doing what it should.

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 mondo']

[quote name='Marky said:

It won\'t be the battery itself - once the car is running it doesn\'t really have a part to play (the alternator "takes over" basically) - the battery only has a job to do for starting the car or running electrics when the engine isn\'t running

/quote]

Where did you learn this crap from?. If you think this is ok, then go start your car, then remove the battery and see what happens :D

Are you actually serious about your statement?

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  • General Member

He\'s reasonably serious I back him on it BUT don\'t try and turn the headlights or any ancillaries on IE Aircon/fans

SO that\'s a flip flop statement

even if the Battery itself is a dud you wont start car BUT if the terminals (Like I mentioned) are corroded they can cause bad volts and voodoo magic to leak causing a drop etc,

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Why do you think you can run/jump start a car and it keeps going even though the batteries dead. Alternator pumps out X amps period providing its functioning like it should. If youre using less than X amps there will be no issue.

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theoretically I would go out to the car now if I had it here at work and try it :D

otherwise need to know output of a Generator/Alternator (yes they are two different things but very similar)

and the draw of a running car

has anyone looked at the AC pump BTW? mines seized and throws sparks out : could just be FUBAR

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70A- generally in modern day stuff. Old s*** maybe 40A-. Pretty rare to see generators on old cars these days most people just wack on a 17ACR. Mountings not normally too hard to make work and -$150 new.

IDK what a car would draw but lights dont add up to massive amounts even with hazards and brakes on. Depends on subs tho I guess.

Talk to michael hes our resident A/C expert isnt he?

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The vehicle will die with no battery when you turn the lights on. Seen it, done it. It happens

The battery dampens the electrical load and spikes from starting things up like lights/fans etc

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