keeweechris

P1410 error code - Secondary Air Pump/Valve problem + easiest solution

6 posts in this topic

In case anyone interested, just finished fixing the good old Secondary Air valve problem on my 2006 WRX 120,000km. Heaps of info on NASIOC.com (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1209260&highlight=2444&page=40) and all over the net, but I did it a little different.

Most of the time it seems the 2 valves get stuck open or closed. I got P1410, so one/both of the valves were stuck open. This isn't good, cos the exhaust can travel back up the tube and into the fan and engine bay. And affect pre-turbo exhaust pressure too.

The recommended fix is to either replace the valves (big job, costly) or remove the whole system and install blanking plates on the holes into the engine (huge job, cheap parts, never have to deal with it again). Then remove error codes via romraider. The reason it's a sh!t of a job is to remove the valves, you need to pop the whole intake manifold off, and to install blanking plates you need to remove up and downpipe. Screw that.

So I got the idea from KSTech (http://www.kstech.biz/subaru-air-pump-valve-block-off-plate-set-2006-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/) who sell the blanking plates. They also sell plates which fit in between the pipework and the valves, which effectively do the same job as blanking plates on the engine. But with WAY less screwing around. Great thing about this solution is:

-You don't need to take off intake or up/down pipes

-Leaves secondary air system in place, so car looks stock and the pressure sensor inside one of the valves still works (not sure why this is needed but hey)

I made up plates from some 1.2mm stainless, a hacksaw, file and drill. (Gasket is on the right)

IMG_7636_1.jpg

First remove IC. Find the 2 valves... the easy one is directly under the IC, and hard one is nearby 1/2 wedged under the intake manifold. Take off all rubber hoses from fan. Remove bolts on easy/passenger valve attaching the pipe to engine, and pull metal gasket out (used to make plates in above pic). Slip plate in between gasket and pipe, and tighten bolts again. I took my whole valve assy off, but you don't have to.

IMG_7637_1.jpg

Then do the same to the hard to reach valve. It's a bit of an ass bandit. One bolt is easy to get to, but the other is not. I removed throttle body, then slipped a long extension with flexi-joint down to reach the bolt

IMG_7639_1.jpg

For that bolt, I just losened it 3mm, but left the bolt in. It would be real *****y to get back in if it fell out. I also needed to loosen the 1 bolt holding the valve in place, which was also hard to reach with a spanner, to enable the valve and pipe to separate enough to slot the plate in. I used the blanking plate with slot for that one, so just slipped it in, then tightened bolts back up. Hard to see in pic, but the shiny plate is in between the valve and the pipe flange.

IMG_7635_1.jpg

Then everything back together, pull fan and sec air system fuses, and use RomRaider to remove the error codes. Not going into the romraider thing here, but look it up on 1000 places on net.

Hope that helps someone else with this annoying problem!

Chris

Edited by keeweechris

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Oh yeah, the way I see it the cause of the valves going bad is:

-There is a passive 1-way flap-type valve inside each solenoid valve housing, which is designed to stop exhaust going back up the tube, and only let fresh air in. Thats great, but over time carbon and crap builds up in there, and the flap stays open. This was the case when I pulled one of mine apart.

-Once jammed open, hot moist exhaust gas is allowed into the solenoid valve section, which rusts that up. Mine was all rusty and the rubber bits were damaged from heat.

-Once the valve seizes open, hot moist exhaust gas is allowed up to the fan, which rusts and melts that. Mine wasn't melted like some peoples, but the bearings were rusty and rough and noisy when it ran.

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Good effort.

Really tempted to remove mine. Still works but its just such a big bulky bas**rd that makes changing spark plugs even harder.

Read theough the infamous one a few times now and seem to have my head around what needs to go. Also lists the codes, for anyone else wanting to do this, that need to be disabled, for legacy's atleast, can't confirm for impreza's

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2007-2009-air-pump-delete-cel-codes-and-ecu-fix-170990.html

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if i didn't go down the route of blocking off, has anyone had this fixed by a workshop?
I'm not one to shy away from a challenge, but seems if i get it wrong then it might stuff things up?

My car 06 Legacy GT just threw this code couple of days ago

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Is that the fault code present from the cold startup fault you’ve been having?

The delete is pretty easy really. Time consuming, but not a lot to get wrong

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