Kol12

1999 Legacy B4 stereo/sat nav removal

48 posts in this topic

I got my parts today but I've got bigger problems like a faulty fuel gauge :mad:  I'm still optimistic about doing the job though.

 

I was just wondering about the part to check 30/87 are connected with the multimeter what you mean there? What exactly are you looking for there?

 

 

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Hey mate,

 

I need some more help if that's ok? I poked around with the paperclip today and what it looks like is that there is only one pin that is actually required to make it turn on. What I mean is that that particular pin would turn the satnav on with any other combination of pins, I'm pretty sure... So I am wondering when I cut the connector off the cable if I can use the main wire that turns it on with any of the other wires? 

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Yea, that should be the case. Re the multi meter - most should have a continuity setting that buzzes when a circuit is complete/open ie put each lead either side of hte section of the circuit you want to check. May need to read the manual that came with it to see if yours has it

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So if the pin that turns the satnav on turns on with any of the other pins what exactly does that mean in electrical terms? Also, that same pin/wire that does turn the satnav on - would you connect that to pin 30 or pin 87 on the relay? 

 

So I would be putting the DMM leads on the relay 30 and 87 pins in continuity mode to check I have pins 85 and 86 wired in properly? Sorry man, this is so new to me...

Edited by Kol12

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All good, yea, the two wires you're effectively shorting will go on those pins. And yes, the multimeter on those pins too - that's to check that the relay activates when you turn the car on

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Ah man, I gave it a crack today but haven't been successful.

 

I teed relay wires 85 into the radio harness ground wire and 86 into the switched 12v wire. I actually stuffed the first vampire clip up on the ground wire and had to put another one in front of it. Radio is still functioning so a good sign...

 

It took me about an hour to strip every single wire of that damn satnav cable to find the right wire! But I eventually found it. The problem is when I connect those two wires to 30 and 87 on the relay the satnav isn't turning on with ignition. It should turn on at the same time as the radio right? Before the other accessories... Short the two wires again and the satnav still turns on but just not when connected to the relay wires. Any ideas what's gone wrong?

Edited by Kol12

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I guess I am at the part where I would test the continuity of pins 30 and 87 of the relay base before I join the wires up. I've got just a cheap Jaycar multi meter and the manual says that the built in buzzer will sound if resistance is less than 75ohm+30ohm. I would imagine I'm to expect a beep to indicate the relay is activated but I'm not getting one. I'm pretty certain that I've teed into the correct ground and 12v switched wires of the radio harness with the correct relay wires and have good connections of the vampire/wire tap connectors. Only thing I can think of is that the vampire plugs didn't get good connection?

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possibly, i'm still not 100% confident i understand the relay wiring so that could be the issue.... you're certainly close to getting sussed!

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1 hour ago, thewabbit1 said:

possibly, i'm still not 100% confident i understand the relay wiring so that could be the issue.... you're certainly close to getting sussed!

 

Ah so something could be back to front?? I'm not overly confident with the relay either. I was reading through this: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html 

 

Number 30 and 87 should be like a switch to join the two satnav wires together which makes it power on. I'm not sure what's wrong, the fundamentals make sense. I may have to buy another radio harness just in case I tapped into the wrong wires. Ughh I'd love to get this going! 

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I carefully read back through the thread and it looks like you may have got the relay connections back to front. ^_^ I quote this from you earlier in the thread, Quote: 

 

"A relay is basically a switch. When current is detect through pins 30 and 87 (ground and 12v switched), it opens the circuit through pins 86 and 85 (the two 'shorted' wires)"

 

More recently you described relay pins 86 and 85 as being the ones that go to ground and 12v switched and 30 and 87 being the pins/switch for the shorted wires. So back to front it probably is after all... I've ordered in another wiring harness and will give it a shot this was round. Should have enough vampire clips left and be able to re utilize the relay. :) 

Edited by Kol12
spelling mistake
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that could explain your battery drain? i dunno.... hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge than me can help!!

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You saw the thread? Yeah could be repercussions of the incorrect wiring? The relay hadn't actually been plugged into the base though, just the 86 and 85 wires had been tapped into the radio harness ground and 12v switched wires. I noticed my front speakers plugged into my amp (aftermarket gear) was cutting out. Maybe the harness didn't like being hacked into like that but I can't see the problem because the actual relay wasn't plugged into the base.

 

I don't know what any of this has to do with the throttle loss and stalls. Maybe because the battery was so drained the computer was acting funny? I will the put the fully charged battery back in tomorrow and way and see what happens. I've cut the relay out and disconnected it completely from the radio to rule that out.

 

Anyway regarding the relay do you think it likely wasn't working because of the relay pin mixup? I'm not losing any hope in getting it to work just yet... The satnav plug with about 20 tiny wires, how did you isolate all of the unneeded wires? I was thinking of heatshrinking all of them to prevent shorts/touching etc. I did a very rough temporary electrical tape job even missing a couple of wires so a short could have been another possibility for the battery drain.. 

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yea, i think i just tapped them. I'd say the throttle issue could be the battery - but don't quote me. If it doesn't come right tomorrow find someone to talk to who knows what they're on about :P

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You could be very right about the loss of throttle being the battery. I'm just looking at this: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/23925/non-functional-gas-pedal-engine-stalling-dead-battery-broken-alternator

 

What stuck out: "An insufficiently-charged battery would explain what you're seeing: the engine will stall because the fuel injectors need electricity to correctly meter the fuel into the engine. Insufficient voltage will leave the engine starved for fuel, reducing engine speed to the point of stalling"

 

Sure could be it. Will know when I get the battery back tomorrow. The battery had been fully discharged, I don't think I've ever had a battery that flat. I was concerned about the exposed wires of the satnav cable, I taped most of them but I think I actually left the brown wire which is the one that will power it on exposed! :o It's possible it got hold of metal and had been powered on, dumb ass... I wonder if that is enough to discharge a whole battery? I hope that is all it was tbh, had no issues that I'm aware of before fiddling on the weekend. 

 

 

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So the alternator doesn't charge the battery without the cluster, it's part of the charging circuit... Explains the huge drain on the battery driving around purely on the battery! 

 

Good news is the cluster has been repaired and on the way back to me.

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Hey mate, 

 

Cluster is back with the fuel gauge repaired, whoo finally! Battery needs a bit more charging but car is back to normal. 

 

So I thought I would give the relay another crack. Going back on your earlier post (2016) you say "when current is detected through pins 30 and 87 (ground and 12v switched), it opens the circuit through pins 86 and 85 (the two 'shorted' wires)" 

 

Now remember just recently you mentioned pins 30 and 87 being the ones that go to the satnav shorted wires and this is when things may have went wrong... Can you remember if pin 30 is definitely ground and pin 87 the 12v switched? I still don't understand these relays but will try to read up some more tonight. Maybe it is more difficult to understand given the circumstances with what we're trying to do with it. 

 

Edit: Maybe 86 and 85 are the switched power and ground, but this diagram says pin 30 should go to the battery or in this case I guess the battery constant wire on the radio harness? 

 

https://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/Relay Diagram.pdf

 

 

Edited by Kol12

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Whoohoo, I got it! What went wrong? My piss poor clamping of the vampire clips. Took them apart and they had barely even pierced the insulation let alone the wire! This time I clamped the #$#% out of them with heavy duty pliers! Bingo, it's all working :D

 

One slight issue is that the satnav screen is intermittently flickering but I wonder if it might have done this originally also. Does your flicker? Mine will flicker for a bit and then stabilize and repeat. When the satnav is idle it just displays Japanese writing and it's not until you input the AC controls that it shows up on the screen. Is that the same for you? There is also a button on the right side of the steering wheel that appears to dim the satnav, have you noticed? Maybe it is a dimmer button? 

 

Wow, so glad I finally I got this sorted but you are the genius with the relay idea! I think I have a good understanding of how a relay works now. Cheers mate.

 

Satnav when idle (no A/C input)

20171212_140508.jpg 

 

Satnav when A/C controls are pressed

20171212_140514.jpg

 

Dimmer button?

20171212_151243.jpg

Edited by Kol12

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That's the spotlight button, so yes it will dim the nav unit, as well as the dash!

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Yes I noticed this activated the fog lights today, but why would turning the spotlights on need to dim the dash?

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Yea, mine shows random Japanese, i just ignore it. And it will dim when your lights are on. Stops the driver being blinded at night

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1 hour ago, thewabbit1 said:

Yea, mine shows random Japanese, i just ignore it. And it will dim when your lights are on. Stops the driver being blinded at night

 

That makes sense. I can ignore the Japanese but does your screen flicker intermittently? 

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Today I noticed that the flickering is also associated with a loss of brightness, I wonder if it's a weak connection?  

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