ADIKT

Ask your track car questions here

49 posts in this topic

I have a few questions about building my race car. Not dumb questions as such. So thought a track specific thread would be best.

I'll start with: do I need functioning front windows on a non road legal track car? Or can I rip the mechanisms outs and fix the windows shut?

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I'd recommend not but the old answer "Read the motorsport manual" might pop up so maybe start there?

http://www.motorsport.org.nz/resources/motorsport-manual

its worse than searching on clubsub but most info will be there in 'schedules' rather than page numbers like a normal reffernce

others wise no, personal preference would say no dont, but reckon (dont know for a fact) you dont even need glass there tho a system to keep your limbs in is required ie those net windows or a sliding perspex slot even just so you can vent your cabin / communicate with the outside world while strapped in

Edited by Joker

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http://www.motorsport.org.nz/sites/default/files/motorsport/manual/Live%2035%20App%202.01%20Sch%20A_0.pdf

in particular might be slightly relevant / the only part you need to read for now

 
4.5 Window Nets and Driver Nets:(1) Window Nets: Are not considered mandatory under this Schedule although where fittedshall comply with the following:(a) Window nets shall close the window aperture to the steering wheel, and(b) Be approved to an SFI standard or FIA requirements having the followingcharacteristics:• Minimum width of the strips: 19mm,• Minimum size of the meshes: 25 x 25mm,• Maximum size of the meshes: 60 x 60mm, and© Shall incorporate a ‘quick release’ system operable from both inside and outsidethe vehicle.(2) Driver Nets: Driver nets are not considered mandatory under this Schedule althoughwhere used shall be fitted in accordance with the manufacturers’ instructions andincorporate a quick release system.(3) Recommendations: In races, window nets are strongly recommended wheredoors/windows (adjacent to the occupants) are modified in any way
 
5.11 Windows: shall meet the following requirements;(1) Vehicles with provision for windows shall have all of them fitted, and(2) All windows shall be free of scratching or significant cracks, and(3) The front windscreen shall have an effective method of demisting, either by ducting of air, hot wire elements, or have an anti-fogging coating applied, and(4) Plastic windows: of a polycarbonate or acrylic material are authorised under the following conditions:(a) The front windscreen shall have a thickness of at least 4.5mm and a centrally located internal vertical metal support strap, and(b) The side windows shall have a thickness of at least 3.0mm, and© The rear window shall have a thickness of at least 3.0mm and at least two(2)evenly spaced external vertical metal support straps unless the material thickness exceeds 5.0mm or the material is bonded to the window aperture utilising anindustry standard adhesive, and(d) The metal support straps shall be at least 3.0mm x 25.0mm and be securely fastened at each end to the bodyshell, and(e) All windows shall be fitted as per their original mounting method or adequately secured to the vehicle. Side windows adjacent to any occupant shall be able to be easily removed (without the use of tools) for emergency egress.(f) Recommendations: It is recommended wherever possible to use Mar Resistant /Abrasion Resistant materials to ensure satisfactory performance and longevity.

edit lol the smilies / emoticons copy paste lost a lot of the formating, interpret it how you will

/ bit I bolded may be of the most use out of all of that

Edited by Joker

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I had a skim through it and didn't see anything initially. I probably went straight past it.

I'll have a good read over it tonight if I have time.

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None of my windows open in my race car, I know of plenty that are the same. Subaru windows would be pretty easy to kick out anyway. even when I had windows I could wind down the cage was in the road so with the doors closed you couldn't wind the handle anyway.

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I have glass still in mine, and as above when doors are shut you can't operate the manual window winders cage is in the way. Seen plenty of cars with Perspex Windows so can't see it being an issue. If you need to smash the glass there is a cool tool around that clips to the inside of the door or wherever you want to put it and combines glass breaker and seatbelt cuter in one, well worth having one of them.

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I have removable perspex and window nets in mine. So can run open with window net or closed with perspex

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all very interesting real world replies! Keep em coming

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 -BLKREX- said:
I have removable perspex and window nets in mine. So can run open with window net or closed with perspex

That sounds interesting. Possibility of some photos of how the perspex is removable?

I will most likely just remove the window mechanism and fix the window shut. And as Russ said get one of those window smasher things

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 Joker said:
all very interesting real world replies! Keep em coming

This was what I was aiming for.

Thank you kind sirs

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I have never scrutineered a car and asked to see the windows be open-able in an emergency and I have been a scrutineer for a few years.

But as Joker highlighted, manual states should be easily removable. However you could also argue that in an accident it's stock glass, it's going to smash fairly easily if the door is busted and can't be opened... So I highly doubt you would have an issue with it. Whether its sensible/going to save you much in weight, well weigh the components and work out what's best. If you sit in a queue at a start line/dummy grid, you may come to regret not having any airflow through the car, I know I do in summer!

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While I approve of the concept, I'd rather see this information broken out into individual threads rather than have it turn into an unwieldy behemoth like the "Dumb questions thread" which is actually full of really good information.... thoughts, comments?

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 boon said:
While I approve of the concept, I'd rather see this information broken out into individual threads rather than have it turn into an unwieldy behemoth like the "Dumb questions thread" which is actually full of really good information.... thoughts, comments?

Yep i agree.

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What are peoples thoughts on using fuel pressure sensors as well as a wideband that is plugged into a link, is it needed as well as a extra sensor for the link or just overkill as you have the afr from the wideband that will show the readings going mental if a loss of fuel pressure is had

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Fuel pressure is a safeguard and easy to work with, "if pressure = below 30psi then cut" for arguments' sake (or "if pressure = less than 40psi below manifold psi? or whatever)

Wideband you have to actually pay attention to, by the time you notice and do the mental maths, the damage is done

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But i have my link wired into my AEM wideband so its logging and reading all the data that it has and using that to with the tune...... So thats why im asking if its over kill. I think its a good idea as i dont have a surge tank until later in the year or next.

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 DacerX said:
But i have my link wired into my AEM wideband so its logging and reading all the data that it has and using that to with the tune...... So thats why im asking if its over kill. I think its a good idea as i dont have a surge tank until later in the year or next.

I don't think it is overkill at all - it's essentially another safeguard for your engine

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Im putting in a oil pressure sensor for the link so i thought while im there i mite as well do a fuel pressure one as well. Also thinking of getting a GM flex sensor to run some ethanol but the issue with that is the lines arent designed for it.... so mite have to look into that.

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 DacerX said:
Im putting in a oil pressure sensor for the link so i thought while im there i mite as well do a fuel pressure one as well. Also thinking of getting a GM flex sensor to run some ethanol but the issue with that is the lines arent designed for it.... so mite have to look into that.

Flex fuel sensor is definitely on my list

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Surge tank is important if you are planning on going to a track and going to carry enough G forces. And a fuel cut/AFR logging will I suspect be way too slow to save you when the car is already detonating, even if it's just for a short period of time. I would suggest build the car so that it doesn't lean out in the first place (speaking from first hand experience of lunching a motor last year due to leaning out when fuel surging).

Also, any sort of warning/gauge, make sure it's in your face (ie a bright f*ck off light) and can't be missed, otherwise you won't notice it until it's too late, as on a track your focus is mirrors and driving lines, not the dash/gauges.

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I have a warning light on now for IAT too high, temps too high so it makes me look, and have cuts in the ecu for danger to manifold types of things.

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 DacerX said:
I have a warning light on now for IAT too high, temps too high so it makes me look, and have cuts in the ecu for danger to manifold types of things.

You should make it blow hot air at you if your intake temps are too hot :P

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 ADIKT said:
You should make it blow hot air at you if your intake temps are too hot :P

Nar i have aircon so its always cool

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Flex fuel sensor is easy enough, but I would upgrade lines. I bought the zetronix one works brilliantly. Plus you need bigger injectors, I had 850 cc but did not flow enough for e85. It's not just the cost of the e85 sensor though.

If you do use dash fittings the cheap ones seize with e85, I had to change out to speed flow which is not cheap. They haven't seized yet.

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