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Wouldn't you just put a laptop on the passenger seat.

dangertomanifold-53ecacdfc5ff0-546220d50

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Hi all,

I am using a 2002 Subaru B4 for a track car, nothing serious just a bit of fun. Last track day I completely cooked my brakes, so there is nothing left :P.

Wondering if anyone has any recommendations on new brake pads and rotors. Just looking at replacing the front with something more track focused.

Any advice would will be much appreciated.

Cheers

Aaron

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There will be lots of opinions on pads (many conflicting), but if you are planning on doing regular track days with a more or less stockish car then I'd treat rotors as consumables. Get a blue collar set from BNT or somewhere like that and spend a bit more on the pads.

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^^^

I agree with this, buy decent pads (I used Bendix ultimates for the track/road) and use the cheapest rotors that BNT sell and be prepared to change them when needed/take a spare one to the track incase you crack one and need to drive home. Also make sure you cool your brakes down on your cool down lap and don't let the pads sit in the one place on the rotor for too long when you get back to the pits.

I'm still running cheap discs even with race pads and they have lasted probably 2 years racing (10+ track days) and have no signs of letting go.

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What's your budget? As that will dictate things. And whatever your budget is, don't be surprised if you get a bit hooked and find you double it...

For cheap stuff I agree with Craig and Sam, Ultimates would be a reasonable compromise. Personally I run separate pads and rotors for the track as pads will work better when bedded in to the rotor you race on, as well as meaning there is enough pad transfer on the rotors to help make them more effective. But depending on budget something like that may not be so practical.

I am a fan of the EBC pad range and that is what I use in all 3 race cars, but none of them are daily driven on those pads. Although the EBC Yellow can be used daily and I have done in the past. But I would see it as a waste spending money on a good pad and to then daily drive it out of existence.

I think do as Craig says, start with an Ultimate (assuming they are cheap?) and see how you like it, no point throwing heaps of money at it if you run a bearing your first time out and decide you don't like racing!

More importantly, remember to bleed your brake fluid and to have reasonable tyres (no cheap chinese sh*t as that just gets frustrating when they die on the track).

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Sweet, Thanks guys.

I will pop into BNT and see what they have. Are there any other places you would recommend another than BNT? So are EBC a more high performance brake pad over an ultimates?

The current cheap brakes that where in there lasted 2 track days, which I was quite surprised about.

But my budget is probably around the 500 dollar mark just for pads and rotors (front only). The car is deregistered so it won't be driven on the road.

Brakes have been bleed and currently have Dunlop star spec - which I find to be at the limit of already, so might get some semi slicks... hopefully the car doesn't run a bottom end!!

Thanks heaps guys.

Cheers

Aaron

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Did the pads, rotors or fluid die? What happened when they died exactly?

EBC Yellow will survive a bit more heat before they go off yeah, as they are designed as a light race pad. Ultimate's I believe are more a dual road and track use. But Ultimate is more likely to be reasonably priced so probably a good starting point as you are on road tyres.

If this is a car that is not used on the road, I would suggest putting some ducting in to the brakes if possible as that's a cheap easy way to extend the life of your pads/rotors too, just a little fiddly to do.

With rotors don't bother with flash ones that are grooved/dimpled/drilled, I don't think they provide enough of a difference for the price. So just go with cheap new rotors, bed them to the pads you use and make sure they are well bedded in with fresh fluid and then go hard.

If you are planning on tracking the car a bit and find you are starting to carry some corner speed, baffle the sump. That's probably the most important thing you can do on a Subaru and then keep an eye on the oil levels, as they don't love g forces. That is also more important than sticky tyres, you can always learn to carry plenty of speed on road tyres before you spend a heap buying flash tyres.

Edited by Munkvy

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The pads died, melted onto the rotors lol and had no pads left. The callipers where actually gridding on the rotors a bit after that. Rotors are okay and fluid are fine but am going to replace the rotors with cheap ones, as you mentioned because there's not a lot of point in getting slotted rotors from what I have heard.

Yeah, I may install some ducts from the front bumper, will just remove the fog lights and go through that way.

I plan on perfecting my lines next time I go and try carry more corner speed. Can I just not overfill the engine with oil a bit instead of baffles?

I was getting low 1.21 at Hamptons last month.

Thanks for the help.

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Ahh good effort! Hardest bit with ducting is getting it to attach to the backing plate, requires a bit of cutting and trial by error.

You can overfill the engine, but it won't save your engine when you go round the last corner at HD, even Evo's run bearings around that corner...

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If you can afford it an accusump is a worthy investment if you dont want to change your sump.

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So I'm doing my first track day and I'm wanting to know if anyone knows about track day insurance? My current insurer won't cover cars on the track. 

Is there a company that does one off insurance for a track meet? 

 

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bit of discussion in the RCIS FB Group here

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/626141350776348/permalink/1119040654819746/

 

and I think this one might have some useful informmation more specific to your question

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/626141350776348/permalink/875382242518923/

 

Quote

who do people go through for insurance on there cars when they are sitting in the shed in a million pieces and slowly piecing it back together. its about time I got on to it a lot of expensive gear sitting in the shed

 

Mines insured to and from the track & as long as the motor is not running Basically in an event 3rd Party Fire & theft via AON

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So I've got a de-reg'd RS that I'd like to put a cage in, and use for Club sport and eventually rally, and I understand about getting an authority card etc.

My question here is, should I get it re-vin'd first, then install the cage and get the auth card, or should I do the cage and other modifications first, then re-vin?

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Yes. Re-vin would be harder with a cage I imagine. Best to call the NZTA and ask them though?

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Hi team, im converting my previously daily driven v3 wrx sti to a dedicated autocross/sprint car. Engine is stock, i’ve just done exhaust and trying not to spend too much money on it. Problem I have on full track stuff is the speed cut at 180kmph. Anyone know a work around for this that doesn’t involve $2k for a Link ecu and tune?


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1 hour ago, tixelix said:

Hi team, im converting my previously daily driven v3 wrx sti to a dedicated autocross/sprint car. Engine is stock, i’ve just done exhaust and trying not to spend too much money on it. Problem I have on full track stuff is the speed cut at 180kmph. Anyone know a work around for this that doesn’t involve $2k for a Link ecu and tune?


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Have a look at these

https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/hks-sld-speed-limit-eraser/

Should do the trick till you get a ecu upgrade. 

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Link ecu on trade me $300 1554734632 plug and play for v3/4 possum link.

 

or if the ecu has an rom chip you can remove it and swap it for one without the speed cut.

there was ostrich that allowed the rom to be edited in realtime for about $200 in the past. Keeps the factory ecu and program just can edit all maps etc.

 

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pivot Speed meter or Apexi unit used to be the go for speed cut

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Think a mate of mine has a hks one from his old car when it was first imported.

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On 3/18/2016 at 9:59 AM, aaron5178 said:

Sweet, Thanks guys.

I will pop into BNT and see what they have. Are there any other places you would recommend another than BNT? So are EBC a more high performance brake pad over an ultimates?

The current cheap brakes that where in there lasted 2 track days, which I was quite surprised about.

But my budget is probably around the 500 dollar mark just for pads and rotors (front only). The car is deregistered so it won't be driven on the road.

Brakes have been bleed and currently have Dunlop star spec - which I find to be at the limit of already, so might get some semi slicks... hopefully the car doesn't run a bottom end!!

Thanks heaps guys.

Cheers

Aaron


A big one a lot of people miss is braided brake lines really helps after a while out there pushing hard! 

 

Would need more of a subaru guru to confirm but maybe keep a eye out for STi Brembo's that should be a much better caliper without busting the bank, also did see Willwoods on special for a damn good price.

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