Skatieguy

BL/BP owners - What made you choose your motor/box combo?

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I'm currently considering making the jump up to a BL5 or BLE. I would get an ecu tune whatever the purchase was. I think the flat 6 would be the #1 choice, followed by the NZ new 2.5 turbo then twin scroll 2.0, but still stuck on whether I want the 6 speed or auto box, ideally a spec B 6 speed but I want cruise control seeing as it's an option, which really narrows the options and seems to up the price substantially (facelift only?).

e.g:

pre facelift 3.0r auto: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1041027888

facelift spec b 3.0 manual: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1044996246

facelift nz new 2.5T manual: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1045688058

Are there any other factory upgrades I would be missing out on other than the 6 speed by not choosing a spec B?

Must do mods on a flat 6 prior to a tune, versus a turbo one?

So, how do you guys like your motor/box combo, are you still happy with it or would trade it for a different combo? Or any opinions on my current situation would be appreciated (always owned turbo manuals, could live with n/a but ideally keep manual, had x2 6 speeds x1 5 speed Subarus).

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I have a bp H6 6 speed, If I bought the same car again I'd buy an auto, mainly because starting from stopped on a hill is a bit of a bastard and cruising I seem to be changing gears constantly. It might be a sign I'm getting old. also I don't thrash my car on the road, only a squirt to pass cars every now and then.

The H6 has plenty of power, I came from owning a turbo 2.0 forester and it's not much different just the power comes on different.

oh and the H6 has cheaper/easier insurance than a turbo (I tripled my insured amount and halved my premiums and didn't have to get an after market alarm)

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I went from 6 speed STi to 2004 3.0R auto wagon.

Reasons:

- Auto was waaaaaay cheaper at the time. Saved $3k+ which was more than enough reason. The whole point of selling the STi was to get some coin back and buy a cheaper car.

- For a daily that I had no intent to spend money on, I really couldn't justify the price difference.

- The girlfriend can't drive manual so auto was on the table anyway.

- Towing the boat, much easier on a slippery boat ramp with an auto.

- Super easy going and nice to cruise in.

- Less tempted to give it heaps so saves me some gas, I drive it like a nana.

Reasons why I would change my mind:

- Auto is pretty boring to be honest, I like to be an 'active' driver so I use the tiptronic a lot to make myself feel better.

- I'm now shopping for a manual turbo BG5 wagon to tidy up and have some fun with on weekends to keep the turbo/manual part of me happy.

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I'm in a 3.0r auto and love it. If there was a manual option I probably would have taken it. But meh so far so good.

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I was looking for a quality 3.0R with the 6 speed for ages but couldn't find a suitable one. In the end I went with an 2008 Outback XT and I'm super happy. 195kw 2.5l turbo with the 5 speed auto and extra ground clearance! It also sounds like a Subaru if you're into that sort of thing. Mine came with eye-sight which is excellent on the open road. Set your speed and if you come up on another vehicle it will slow you down and keep you at a set distance. Lane departure warning too although I usually keep it off driving around Wellington as the damn thing is going off all the time.

Also some nice person in Japan put on an STI flexi strut brace and lower arm brace as well as some Rays gramlight 57xtreme sp spec wheels making a really nice handling wagon

Edited by jonboy

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Yeah the price difference is hard to justify for the manuals really, I can then see myself modding it more (eg full exhaust vs just mufflers), if it's really that dull I could buy a cheap GC8 like I've always wanted as well and still come out better off than just a manual one.

 Guitar_Guy said:

- I'm now shopping for a manual turbo BG5 wagon to tidy up and have some fun with on weekends to keep the turbo/manual part of me happy.

How rough of a BG5 are you looking for? I have a relatively rough one for cheap with a mint low ks 5 speed (my old BD5 one) in it if you're interested..

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 pharnos said:
I went 2L GT auto for the adaptive cruise control (2007 GT Si-Cruise)

Is that using eye sight in conjunction with cruise control?

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 ADIKT said:
Is that using eye sight in conjunction with cruise control?

It's not eye sight as far as I'm aware. I think the eye sight system has cameras up top of the windshield behind the mirror? This system doesn't have those cameras, it uses radar? from behind the front grill (beside the badge)

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Edited by pharnos

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 nztintin said:
I have a bp H6 6 speed, If I bought the same car again I'd buy an auto, mainly because starting from stopped on a hill is a bit of a bastard and cruising I seem to be changing gears constantly. It might be a sign I'm getting old. also I don't thrash my car on the road, only a squirt to pass cars every now and then.

The H6 has plenty of power, I came from owning a turbo 2.0 forester and it's not much different just the power comes on different.

oh and the H6 has cheaper/easier insurance than a turbo (I tripled my insured amount and halved my premiums and didn't have to get an after market alarm)

That torque issue is resolved if you get an ECU remap. The stock tune leaves a big hole in the torque down between 1000RPM and 3000RPM. I can pretty much drive around at 50km/h in 6th gear, up hild, down hills and so on.

I picked my combo by making a list of things I wanted on my car and then picking the car that met most of the requirements.

H6 -> Check ( I quite like the way the N/A motor delivers power and these were all a bit cheaper than a turbo at the time. Love the way it sounds)

Manual -> Check. (this was non negotiable in my case, I'm just not a fan of autos, personal preference)

NZ New -> Check. (Gets 8 Airbags instead of 2 which most JDM cars have except for very few where the original owner ordered the car with the safety pack, also means all things are in English and the Radio works really well without a band expander)

HID Lights -> No Check (Most JDM cars have them, not the NZ New 3.0R though)

Macintosh Audio -> Check (It just sounds better and I like good sound)

Since I have had my car tuned I have helped a few others with their tunes too, mostly with Auto H6 cars and they have all said that it has transformed the car, which includes how the auto shifts, so this actually makes the auto a bit of a better proposition that it would have been when I picked mine.

From the list you have above, I would choose the facelift nz new 2.5T manual.

Ticks lots of boxes and it's relatively cheap for what it is. Very very rare.

Edited by McDoof

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I went for a 30r auto, mainly for towing capacity to tow my boat (1800kg braked vs 1500kg braked for 2.0) . i did take a manual for a drive but came to the conclusion that A. the clutch was heavy enough to piss me off driving around Auckland, and B. I got a way better spec'd car with 30k less on the clock for 2-3k less

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My car was $145 and that's what it came with.

3.0R with an auto box.

Goes really well :)

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 boon said:
My car was $145 and that's what it came with.

3.0R with an auto box.

Goes really well :)

$145???

The second hard car market really is dead. :-)

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 boon said:
My car was $145 and that's what it came with.

3.0R with an auto box.

Goes really well :)

Where are you getting your deals? Set me up!

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 McDoof said:

Since I have had my car tuned I have helped a few others with their tunes too, mostly with Auto H6 cars and they have all said that it has transformed the car, which includes how the auto shifts, so this actually makes the auto a bit of a better proposition that it would have been when I picked mine.

I would be very interested in your guidance in addressing the 1-3k RPM "dead spot" in the auto please. It's the biggest annoyance about the car for me, particularly when cold and attempting to conduct a right hand turn into traffic without being able to properly see that approaching from the right.

I've a 2006 BL 3.0R auto with the beige leather and McIntosh stereo. Chose it because it was the best specced and best value for money car. I also needed the car quickly. Like others I drive it manual mode and for the most I find it adequate, it changes gears quickly enough but I think that duration of the torque reduction during the process is a bit... generous.

Would be nice to get rid of that unresponsiveness up to 3k RPM and generally sharpen power delivery and improve fuel economy. It is quite thirsty around town.

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 Teufel said:
I would be very interested in your guidance in addressing the 1-3k RPM "dead spot" in the auto please.

Would be nice to get rid of that unresponsiveness up to 3k RPM and generally sharpen power delivery and improve fuel economy. It is quite thirsty around town.

PM me and we can sort something out. Easiest if you are in Auckland of course.

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Oh yea I forgot to mention the fuel economy side of things. Around town it sucks balls. Open road it is really good!

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 McDoof said:
PM me and we can sort something out. Easiest if you are in Auckland of course.

Can you use your magic powers and get Matt to reply to my email/revision request please? Not having much luck.

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 ADIKT said:
Oh yea I forgot to mention the fuel economy side of things. Around town it sucks balls. Open road it is really good!

I've kept my trip counter for just over 5000km now, average is 8.2km/L which is kinda OK I guess?

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 boon said:
I've kept my trip counter for just over 5000km now, average is 8.2km/L which is kinda OK I guess?

Yea that's good. That's what I get for open road driving. My around town is like 12.3 I think.

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 ADIKT said:
Yea that's good. That's what I get for open road driving. My around town is like 12.3 I think.

You're thinking of it the wrong way round Adikt. They read km/L not L/100km. 8.2km/L is pretty bad. I'm averaging 8 on mine right now and thats with it being at 100% throttle probably 60% of the time for tuning. Open road I get 10-11. Obviously not a 3.0r but they get relatively similar fuel consumption.

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I had a 3.0R 6 speed and a 2.0GT auto.

This is how I would pick them:

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, won't settle for second best = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo manual

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, can't be bothered shifting gears = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo auto

Sporty driver that likes refinement and thinks a modern hatchback is fast enough, not worried abouts mods apart from looks/sound = 3.0R manual

A reliable comfortable everyday cruiser that isn't gutless = 3.0R auto

Just want a wagon hack = 2.0 or 2.5 non turbo auto or manual

Short story - the turbo manual has the most performance and potential.

The 3.0R cars smoother but slower.

other non turbos are just hacks.

Edited by GorGasmSpecB

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 GorGasmSpecB said:
I had a 3.0R 6 speed and a 2.0GT auto.

This is how I would pick them:

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, won't settle for second best = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo manual

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, can't be bothered shifting gears = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo auto

Sporty driver that likes refinement and thinks a modern hatchback is fast enough, not worried abouts mods apart from looks/sound = 3.0R manual

A reliable comfortable everyday cruiser that isn't gutless = 3.0R auto

Just want a wagon hack = 2.0 or 2.5 non turbo auto or manual

Short story - the turbo manual has the most performance and potential.

The 3.0R cars smoother but slower.

other non turbos are just hacks.

^^This.

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Anything turbo charged particularly 2nd hand in essence is a time bomb waiting to go off

The extra performance not worth the risk.

Upgraded to 06 3.0R Outback + 5 EAT S I Drive Facelift JDM (no manual option in Outback)

Fuel economy (trip computer) 9km /litre (mixed running) 12km /litre (open road)

Have never liked Legacies / too low too and on road focused .

Thats why I kept an 86 Leone wagon 5MT D/R til 2009 replacing it with an 01 Outback 2.5 man. D/R

The only Leagcy I would of had would have been an early non interference SOHC 2.2 GX manual hi/lo wagon.

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Edited by Stodart
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