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EJ20G running like ****e


Optical

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Hey all

Im trying to trouble shoot an EJ20G setup in my v2 wrx ****box runabout

Current behaviour is it severely lacks torque. From the sound of the engine and turbo behaviour it appears the ECU is pulling all the timing out of the engine. Revs slowly, makes lots of wooshing and hissing noises but goes nowhere.

Engine will also not rev past 4000rpm

Typical limp mode behaviour?

Funny thing is, it will behave like this straight after an ECU reset. I'd expect things to work properly if no fault code is bought up.

Maybe the cam belt has jumped a tooth or something? Although I didnt think this would cause a 4000rpm limiter of sorts.

Any ideas?

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Massive air leak somewhere, freaking out the afm?

Coils? I've had the early ones crack and cause similar running weirdness.

Or something left field, like an intake hose collapsing and blocking the airflow?

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The good old ej20g aye. Bearing in mind it's probably done over 200kms and is 25 years old.

Have you checked for codes?

Coils are usually a fault with these but in my experience give different symptoms(backfires,boost cut and missing). Pull them out check for cracks or perished rubber. If they're cracked they need to be replaced. You can cover them with insulation tape as a temp fix. Also check spark plugs out while you're there.

AFM would be my guess, they are difficult to identify as faulty unless you have a known good one. Possibly try a local subaru wreckers see if they will let you test one, or another member who can help out?

Vacuum leaks- Does car hunt for idle? If the cars anything like my legacy the hoses will be stuffed. Do yourself a favour and go grab some 8mm hose clips and 3m of 5mm vacuum line. Replace all the hoses and clamp them on. Gut your breathing system and plug the intake holes with bolts. Replace the hose going to IACV. Check the intake hose to the turbo isn't completely wrecked, check the intercooler hose (replace with sti silicone one if it's plastic) as when these leak they make car whoosh as the air leaks under boost

Run some upper engine cleaner

Spray a bit of degreaser into the boost control solenoid hoses

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Thanks for input guys

Engine was replaced a while ago with a lowish mileage one which seems healthy. I also put the ej20k ignition system into it so spark is healthy at least. Never a single misfire or similar (was terrible on the old ej20g coils)..

Intake pipe has already been plugged up and crank case breather system doesnt run into the intake any more. IAC hose is new and leak free.

I did have a fault code 43 - pressure exchange solenoid and map sensor arrangement. Map sensor wasnt plumbed to pxs right so have sorted that and cleared the code. Still behaves the same...

Could be an air leak, Idle doesnt hunt and I cant see anything obvious.. I will check the pipe under the IC - IC is a bit wobbly so maybe it has flexed and cracked. Then onto the AFM, should be an easy swap with someone to check. Im hoping it's simple something like that!

Seems odd that it pegs at 4000rpm though, i'd have thought the ecu would be causing that, but without a fault code it's hard to know.

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 Optical said:
Thanks for input guys

Engine was replaced a while ago with a lowish mileage one which seems healthy. I also put the ej20k ignition system into it so spark is healthy at least. Never a single misfire or similar (was terrible on the old ej20g coils)..

Intake pipe has already been plugged up and crank case breather system doesnt run into the intake any more. IAC hose is new and leak free.

I did have a fault code 43 - pressure exchange solenoid and map sensor arrangement. Map sensor wasnt plumbed to pxs right so have sorted that and cleared the code. Still behaves the same...

Could be an air leak, Idle doesnt hunt and I cant see anything obvious.. I will check the pipe under the IC - IC is a bit wobbly so maybe it has flexed and cracked. Then onto the AFM, should be an easy swap with someone to check. Im hoping it's simple something like that!

Seems odd that it pegs at 4000rpm though, i'd have thought the ecu would be causing that, but without a fault code it's hard to know.

shouldn't be spark related then

As loner said, could be fuel pump.

I'm still thinking afm (subaruspeed.co.nz does them good price)

shouldn't be an intake leak if the idle isn't hunting

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I had it done to mine, used a sharp knife and cut the silicon that held the square cap on and theres the connector pins right in front of you going right to the circuit board. A couple of mine had cracks in the solder, so I had someone re solder them as at the time I didnt know just how easy soldering was.

Then RTV'd the cap back on and its still in the car now!

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  • 2 weeks later...
 Optical said:
it appears the ECU is pulling all the timing out of the engine.

Well I finally figured this out and it aint pretty.

Indeed the timing was being pulled out - due to the crank pulley bolt being loose and the woodruff key taking the crank sprocket load. Keyway in the crank nose is flogged out and woodruff key munted. Result is around 20 degrees lag between crank and cam timing and resultant cam trigger timing.

13020372_10154155065631518_1920081284_n_

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Can weld it

The key isn't supposed to take any load - it's job is primarily to align the crank sprocket trigger to the crank. The pulley bolt when done up tight clamps the sprocket to the crank nose

I'll have a go at fixing it at least!

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