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Fuel Pump Rewire


Rosssub

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After installing a new AEM 320L fuel pump in this thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45977-Changing-BE-BH-Fuel-Pump&p=615518#post615518

 

Then testing fuel pressure and fuel pump wiring voltage drop in this thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45832-Fuel-Pressure&p=615522#post615522

 

I'm now rewiring my fuel pump using the parts listed below, sourced through a local auto electrician for $25.

 

5 meters of 12 AWG red wire - - $2.66 X5

2 meters of 12 AWG black wire - $2.66 X5

Blade Fuse holder - - - - - - - $4.02 X1

20A Blade fuse - - - - - - -- - $0.50 X1

(Most Auto Sparky's will sell the Narva type crimps for 40-50 cents each, or $4.30 odd for a pack of 10)

Red insulated female blade/3mm wire/6.3mm tab -- $0.40 x2

Blue insulated female blade/4mm wire/6.3mm tab - $0.40 x2

Blue cable joiner/4mm wire --------------------- $0.40 x3

Blue ring terminal/4mm wire/8mm diameter-------- $0.40 x2

Using an old 30-40A 12V n/o relay, (n/o - normally open):

My_FP_Rewire_Kit_001.jpg

Optional 20A resetting breaker instead of fuse -- $21.00

Also used 2.5M of 10mm split flex (loom sheath)---$1.75 x2.5

 

After disconnecting the negative battery terminal. I lifted the back seat and then started on the passenger side. Here is the fuel sub level sensor assembly access cover and main fuel pump loom:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_035.jpg

 

I've unplugged the fuel pump loom connector and removed both fuel tank access panels completely:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_037.jpg

 

Then removed the rear left sill plate. Hiding under the sill plate/seat base is this square box cover, held on by four 12mm bolts:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_042.jpg

 

Square box cover unbolted and flipped over, showing the FP loom heading off behind the back seat:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_043.jpg

 

At this point I grabbed the new 2.5m length of 10mm split flex:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_044.jpg

 

Then laid it out and cut off enough to reach the FP:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_045.jpg

 

I unrolled the new power and ground wires and fed both through the new split flex, taping the two wires together. The cut end of the new 12 gauge wires will go to the FP:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_047.jpg

 

Using insulation tape I've wrapped/taped the whole length of split flex to seal it up completely. Technically where it passes over the fuel tank (between access panels) is outside the car, sheathing and taping will help protect the wires and keep them dry:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_052.jpg

 

I taped the new loom onto a long piece of thin steel and gently poked the new FP loom over the fuel tank:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_053.jpg

 

Then removed the steel rod, leaving the new loom in place:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_054.jpg

 

Still working on the passengers side. I've used long nose pliers to stretch the OEM rubber loom grommet,then pushed the new FP power and ground wires through:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_056.jpg

 

Then taped the new wires together. This rubber grommet seals the cabin from outside water and fumes so don't rip it, tape it up to seal it properly:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_057.jpg

 

Split flex loom tidied up and cable tied to the solid fuel lines crossing over the fuel tank, as far in as I could reach on both sides:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_058.jpg

 

Wiring loom and rubber grommet fed back through the access plate:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_059.jpg

 

Sub level sensor access plate back in. I then stripped the original loom, from the plug back to the rubber grommet:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_060.jpg

 

The main loom plug wires as shown from top to bottom:

Black and brown - Fuel lever sensor ground and signal

Black - Fuel pump ground

Black - Shield (wound around OEM power and ground)

White - Fuel pump power

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_061.jpg

 

Original FP power (white) and ground (black) wires cut off near the grommet end, leaving them as long as possible. The exposed copper is the shield wire, protecting the fuel gauge signal from the high current of the fuel pump:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_063.jpg

 

I pushed the bare shield wire back into it's original sheath and then taped it up. Although it's pretty redundant now anyway:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_064.jpg

 

Then taped up both the old and new loom together, from the grommet to the loom plug:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_065.jpg

 

I've left some length, then cut the new FP wires off, fitting a blue female blade crimp onto the new FP power wire and a blue ring terminal onto the new FP ground. With two red female blade crimps onto the original FP power/ground:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_066.jpg

 

Then plugged in the relay. Also crimping another blue female blade onto the remaining length/roll of new red power wire, that will run the rest of the way to the battery:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_067.jpg

 

Here's a diagram to show what I've done with the relay wiring:

relay_pins_no_mfg_info.gif

 

Now the cars original fuel pump power/ground wires, will switch the new relay on and off.

 

After taping things up at the relay a bit:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_068.jpg

 

I cable tied the new FP relay snugly to the rear window washer fluid pipe. Then clipped the original loom plug clip back into the square box cover panel:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_069.jpg

 

When refitting the box cover panel I inserted the rear/left 12mm bolt, then slid the new FP ground wire (blue ring terminal) onto the bolt:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_070.jpg

 

For the best ground scratch some paint off, so the ring terminal is touching bare metal. Then dab some paint on the spot to stop it rusting.

 

Square box cover plate reinstalled, hiding the new relay out of sight. You can just see the blue FP ground at the bottom of the pic:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_071.jpg

 

Moving onto the front sill, carefully remove the sill plate. Again here you'll see my amp power cable running along the sill:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_076.jpg

 

Take the remaining power wire from the rear sill, hold it straight and slowly slide it through under the centre pillar into the front:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_077.jpg

 

With the new FP power wire protruding into the front sill, I pulled the rest through:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_078.jpg

 

I then cable tied my amp and FP power wires together along the rear sill:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_079.jpg

 

Rear left sill plate back on:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_080.jpg

 

Back in the front left sill, I've continued to cable tie all the way:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_081.jpg

 

From here I've jacked the front of the car up and removed the F/L wheel. then loosened the plastic under guard and pulled it down enough to get up inside the guard. Here you'll see my amps power cable, coming through an OEM grommet in the front passengers kick panel/sill:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_084.jpg

 

Here's the same grommet looking from inside the car, just inside the bottom door hinge:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_086.jpg

 

I used some long nose pliers to poke the grommet out and push the new FP power wire through into the F/L guard:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_087.jpg

 

Then made a small hole in the grommet for the new power wire:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_087a.jpg

 

Front sill tidied up:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_088.jpg

 

Then finished off:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_072.jpg

 

I then removed my amp power cable from the battery and pushed it back into the guard:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_093.jpg

 

Then unclipped my amp cable from inside the guard, back to the sill grommet. Here's where I used the last of the split flex:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_095.jpg

 

New amp and FP power loom taped up to seal and protect it:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_096.jpg

 

Using my amp cable as a length guide to the battery. I trimmed the new FP power wire off, then fitted the new blade fuse holder with a blue cable joiner crimp. Plus an 8mm blue ring terminal on the end to connect to the battery positive terminal:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_099.jpg

 

All taped up:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_100.jpg

 

New FP/amp power loom cable tied upward along the top of the inner guard:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_104.jpg

 

Cable tied to the existing OEM looms to hold it up out of the way:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_105.jpg

 

I then poked the FP power cable into the engine bay through a hole near the battery:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_100a.jpg

 

New FP 20A fuse holder, always at the battery end: (no fuse yet)

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_101.jpg

 

Connected to the positive battery terminal:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_103.jpg

 

Under guard reinstalled, wheel back on and car lowered:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_106.jpg

 

Back at the FP assembly:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_107.jpg

 

I've stripped the original loom back, about 200mm from the FP assembly main plug:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_108.jpg

 

Then cut the OEM power (white) and ground (black) wires 75-100mm from the plug:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_110.jpg

 

I've fitted two more blue 4mm cable joiner crimps onto the cut power/ground wires:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_111.jpg

 

Then connected them to the new 12 gauge power and ground wires. White to red and black to black:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_112.jpg

 

This time heat shrinked to help seal/protect/insulate:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_113.jpg

 

All wrapped together and worked carefully into the new split flex:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_115.jpg

 

Then taped up tidy and plugged in:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_116.jpg

 

FP access panel now reinstalled:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_117.jpg

 

Liner and seat back down:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_118.jpg

 

Finally now fitting the new FP 20A blade fuse:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_119.jpg

 

Fuel Pump rewire all done, time to reconnect the negative battery terminal and prime the pump:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_121.jpg

 

Then fire it up:

AEM_Install_Pump_Rewire_127.jpg

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