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The 2018 ClubSUB Calendar, Powered by Possum Borne Motorsport is now available.
12 Hand picked full colour photos, taken by menbers, submitted by members and chosen by members.
All vehicles in the calendar are owned by members of the NZ Subaru Enthusiasts community.
A massive thanks to the team at PBMS for coming on board for another year!
This is a very sought after calendar and only available for a limited time.
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Please note, as these are printed to order, shipping will be delayed. we will make 3 orders, October 30th, November 27th, and December 11th. If you dont order intime to make one of these shipping dates, we will get it out to you in the new year.
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Ihave a 94 wrx wagon chassie says it a wrx-sa (sti) 250 hp manual. it has tommy karin rear bumper and tommy karin wheel centers (not fitted at the moment) rear spoiler has triangle bits on the end that no other wagon has,there is a original subaru techincal international sticker on rear hatch thats the only revferance to sti on the vehicle does anyone know anythig about this vehicle like what does the sa mean
Right.. the AFM fixup guide! This is probably most relevant to early-mid 90's AFM's that have no servicible parts in them. The basic idea is that over time the solder joints on the connectors become dry and crack, which makes for a bad electrical connection and sometimes an error code. Even if no code is given, you may experience random loss of power from time to time, which can also be caused by this. Sorry about the blurry photos, it was a crap camera!
Anyway, moving on, you'll need:
Solder wick/sucker (optional)
Soldering Iron (preferably a hot one)
Silicon or some other kind of sealant.
1. Locate your AFM on the drivers side of the engine bay. It's attached to the airbox by bolts, and to the flexi-joint pipe by hose clamps. It's probably wise to unbolt the AFM completely from everything, although not necessary. You'll need to unplug it too!
2. After getting the AFM off you'll need to cut through the black sealant that lines the outside of the circuitry housing. The lid is quite deep so be careful when prying it out, I managed to crack the outer casing from prying too hard.
3. After you get the lid off you'll see a copper EM sheilding plate that is soldered down by one side. If the plate is loose then awesome, take it out, otherwise you'll need to remove the solder to get the sheilding plate out. Solderwick is great for this kinda stuff, but i'm sure there's more than one way to skin a cat.
4. Once that's out of the way you can see some of the circuitry involved in the mysterious AFM. Down one side you will see 4-5 connector pins that go from the main plug on the outer casing through to the circuit board (see number 3 on this incredibly blurry excuse for a photo). Usually these are the culprits! It's always best to remove the old solder before re-soldering, but you can probably get away with not doing that.
If you look down at the pins inside the casing you'll see that they are actually made up of 2 pins connected with a solder joint (one from the circuit board, the other from the plug). Heat the joint so the solder is liquid then remove the old solder, then add some more solder as necessary. If you don't have solder removing stuff then i'm sure that re-wetting the joint should be ok. Repeat for all of the pins.
5. You're done! Put the EM sheilding back on and re-solder it to the grounding connection. Then replace the plastic lid and seal it with sealant to keep moisture out. This should conclude your adventures in to the AFM, and should be enough to have repaired it. I've done several of these and never had any more problems with them afterwards. If you're problem persists then you may need to either buy a new AFM or find one on trademe.
Best of luck!
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