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i think i may have detonation issues above 9 psi on my 96 wrx ???


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Hey guys. So i just got a gf8 an found that there was a boost leak from the  pipe at bottom of intercooler to turbo and wouldnt boost above 8 psi.  I sorted that .. and with the boost tap set up inline with factory solenoid (taps also turned right down to lowest setting) it jumped right up to 15psi with heaps of popping and backfiring . So i removed the factory solenoid from equation and its dropped back to 11-12 psi.. but is stil popping n backfiring. Seems to me like ecu is cutting ignition and causing detonating . Any ideas what could cause this? As i thought 11 psi was far too low for any detonation issues to occur. Thanks in advance guys. Any helps much appreciated as it drivn me crazy lol

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Hey guys. Yep ur right i got ut sorted. I replaced the plugs which looked stuffed and problem solved with ignition. I also found it had a bolt missing where the intercooler pipe bolts to the bottom of i/c so it wad leaking out of the seal in between. Have replaced the bolt and refitted seal properly n no boost leaks. Now runnin pretty dam good and boosting a solid 12 psi.. 

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Also been told by an ex subaru certified mechanic ive actually got an ra engine in it.  Aparently he can tell as it has the ribs on the block from the casting process.. ?.. it also has a U8 E.C.U. but only a vf10..   my new question is what do you think i could safely run boost wise with this combo ?  

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'RA block' doesn't mean anything, pretty much all early Legacies and some WRXes had that block (closed deck), just because the block is strong doesn't mean the internals are. VF10s are pretty crappy, VF8 would be a good upgrade if you can find one, probably best thing you can do is put a proper turbo back exhaust on it.

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12 minutes ago, Leufkax said:

VF8 would be a good upgrade if you can find one

Im sure I saw one one on either TM or the Subaru parts Website. I have one but am not selling.

The Difference between the RS and the RS RA is inside the block. The blocks are both closed deck, but the RA has slightly different internals, and has been hand ported, balanced blah blah blah.

Get a Z4 ECU and a TD05

26 minutes ago, Leufkax said:

probably best thing you can do is put a proper turbo back exhaust on it.

+1 for this.

 

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2 hours ago, Leufkax said:

'RA block' doesn't mean anything, pretty much all early Legacies and some WRXes had that block (closed deck), just because the block is strong doesn't mean the internals are. VF10s are pretty crappy, VF8 would be a good upgrade if you can find one, probably best thing you can do is put a proper turbo back exhaust on it.

 

Far as I was aware in the RA BC5 the internals were forged from factory, is this incorrect?

 

Ive had a few VF10s running 20psi that didnt blow before the bottom end did

also had a few VF8s running 20psi on standard everything with nothing blowing up LOL :P 

This was back when BFs/BCs were a dime a dozen

 

I also had the popping and farting problem - had me super stumped fixing lots of stuff that didnt need fixing

 

Curious if you turn your boost up past 12psi does it still pop and fart?

 

My RS saw 25psi on 1 occasion when I had the external wastegate hooked up wrong, and yes it would have been terrible on the engine but it ran flawlessly even at 25psi - no hesistaion or popping / backfiring (I had a chip so boost is no limited for me)

 

When I turn it up past 16psi now it pops and backfires, bloody annoying so I just leave it under that and it goes sweet. still abit concerned there might be something small wrong however

 

Dunno what a W8 runs But ive got a W6 with TD05h and runs tight now I replaced everything on the ignition system

Have a HKS downpipe and full stainless exhaust, sounds tits and hauls ass

Z4 also good but not as cool as a W6 :P

 

 

 

When you upgrade your turbo do the ECU as well and youll be away no sweat

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No popping and farting at all now.. stil runs awesome on 15 + psi just worried about bottom end handling it lol mines a gf8 btw but my best mate has a bc5 with a tdo5 20g and gc8 sti motor and microtec ecu. The guy who told me i hav an ra block said il have factory forged internals in it. 

Edited by dillon.96.gf8.
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There's not much on the net about the engines but most of says the same thing:

Taken from:

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/the-subaru-legacy-is-officially-a-japanese-nostalgic-car-part-02/

"The drivetrain got forged pistons and strengthened connecting rods, revised intake and exhaust ports, balanced crankshaft and flywheel"

Does it have gold cam covers?

Not always definitive proof but could help. 

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36 minutes ago, dillon.96.gf8. said:

No popping and farting at all now.. stil runs awesome on 15 + psi just worried about bottom end handling it lol mines a gf8 btw but my best mate has a bc5 with a tdo5 20g and gc8 sti motor and microtec ecu. The guy who told me i hav an ra block said il have factory forged internals in it. 

 

Your mate has very good taste, same as mine except the microtec

 

You auckland based? I feel confused as to why I do not know this particular bc5 owner lololol

btw if your gf8 is V1 or V2 then we have the same engine fella

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14 hours ago, THUNDA said:

 

Far as I was aware in the RA BC5 the internals were forged from factory, is this incorrect?

 

Ive had a few VF10s running 20psi that didnt blow before the bottom end did

also had a few VF8s running 20psi on standard everything with nothing blowing up LOL :P 

This was back when BFs/BCs were a dime a dozen

 

I also had the popping and farting problem - had me super stumped fixing lots of stuff that didnt need fixing

 

Curious if you turn your boost up past 12psi does it still pop and fart?

 

My RS saw 25psi on 1 occasion when I had the external wastegate hooked up wrong, and yes it would have been terrible on the engine but it ran flawlessly even at 25psi - no hesistaion or popping / backfiring (I had a chip so boost is no limited for me)

 

When I turn it up past 16psi now it pops and backfires, bloody annoying so I just leave it under that and it goes sweet. still abit concerned there might be something small wrong however

 

Dunno what a W8 runs But ive got a W6 with TD05h and runs tight now I replaced everything on the ignition system

Have a HKS downpipe and full stainless exhaust, sounds tits and hauls ass

Z4 also good but not as cool as a W6 :P

 

 

 

When you upgrade your turbo do the ECU as well and youll be away no sweat

The mechanic is referring to the casting marks on the block indicating that it's closed deck, as I said it's not an RA thing, most BC/BFs came with these and normal internals/shite heads along with a lot of early EJ20Gs. Even STIs/RAs never came with forged internals, it's something called a hypereutectic alloy which just means cast pistons with a higher silicon content than usual, the main difference between STI and standard is usually in the heads.

 

And that would have been running L E A N, you're lucky you didn't melt a hole in a piston 9_9

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2 hours ago, Leufkax said:

 

And that would have been running L E A N, you're lucky you didn't melt a hole in a piston 9_9

 

 

Just curious, exactly what bit are you reffering to when you say LEAN ?

 

That car I have now which used to pop/backfiring at high boost?

 

or in the past in other cars ive owned when ive had the boost up on the VF10/VF8?

 

I get worried when anyone mentions lean lol, I already have doubts that even after all ive fixed on my current BC5 theres still that feeling that ive forgotten something / theres something else wrong that i cant quite figure out (pretty much the feeling ive had since owning it hahaha)

Edited by THUNDA
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Doesn't surprise me tbh - People are only as experienced as their experience, its easy to know things after you've learnt them.

 

Chip companies advertise how their chips are great and can work on any vehicle, not surprising that alot of people buy them

 

Crappy Boost controllers are only like $20 

 

Being bad at something is the first step towards being good at something ^___ ^

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53 minutes ago, slystiguy said:

Boggles my mind how so many people don't run wideband o2 sensors but are happy to play with boost an chips O_O 

Do you need to get a wide band with an upgraded turbo running the correct ECU to bump up boost? or is it only required when using a MBC?and if so how hard is it to wire into the loom (or do you just swap out the standard 02 sensor with a wideband.

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1 hour ago, SpeedySub said:

So it only reads the AFR and displays it on a gauge?

 

Correctamundo

 

I had one in the RA when I had it, you can kind of see the gauge in this video.

You'll find the bung a meter or so after the turbo:

 

 

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Il be fitting a link g4+ as soon as possible.  Would I still need a wide band unit or not?  My gf8s ver. 2 btw. I believe factory boost is 10.5 psi which is where I have it currently. . Reckon itd b safe to run say 12-14psi without any other mods needed etc n no problems? Or wil ecu hav a fit amd lean out? Not Keen on melted pistons lol

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48 minutes ago, Technikhaus said:

 

Correctamundo

 

I had one in the RA when I had it, you can kind of see the gauge in this video.

You'll find the bung a meter or so after the turbo

I do remember thinking there seemed to be an extra gauge in the video. I watched this a few times as well as the other one😊

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