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Replace McIntosh = Poor Reception


tweedo

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Hey all, 

 

I've not long finished doing a complete overhaul of the McIntosh audio in my '04 BP5. 

 

When I replaced the HU all the connections other than anything external was done with the Repco bought harnesses and everything matched up mint. 

I used the Nissan aerial adaptor to do the connection from the Subaru 2 pronger to the new HU too. 

 

Now ever since doing all of this I've gone from having mint radio reception on the factory unit to utter crap on the new one. 

 

Can anyone shed any light on what may be the issue? 

 

Cheers! 

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It does indeed, running to the powered antenna in the back. 

It's a yellow and black wire from memory which matched up with the corresponding 'power antenna' wire on the harness (solid blue?). 

 

So I'm confused as there doesn't seem to be any dud connection or anything. 

 

Only other thing I could think of was grounding my reversing camera at the same point as the power antenna but I've been told that shouldn't be an issue. 

 

Seems to be a few around that have done an upgrade now.... any of you guys run into anything similar? 

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So what exactly were you doing this for? Did it have a base model stereo beforehand? 

I know mine turned to crap after I started playing with it. Never worked out why, got pissed off so replaced the lot.

Can't remember exactly what I was doing behind there at the time but it was perfect when I first got the car, then I started fiddling with things and it was never the same again.

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It had the full Mcintosh stereo in it but I grew tired of it as it really was nothing to write home about plus the front speakers and sub were toast too. 

 

So replaced more or less everything but as soon as I put the new HU in (JVC) it went from being all good to no good. 

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Oh thats weird. My experience was the exact opposite, reception at the end was crap with the mcintosh and the band expander, plugged the aftermarket HU in and got absolutly perfect reception straight away.

 

Maybe take a few pics of the wiring thats been done from the OEM plug through to where it connects to the new HU. Don't have any pics of what I did on mine but its only 5 mins to pull it so i'll get mine out tomorrow arvo and see how I did it if you haven't solved it by then

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My swap was perfectly fine too (not McIntosh, don't think it matters though).

Also used Repco harnesses and proper Subaru aerial adapter that came with the kit.  Could Nissan aerial adapter be an issue?

IIRC didn't have to do any additional wiring apart from things like rear view camera and steering wheels controls 

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Hey guys, Yep will take a few pics after my weekend away. 

 

This is what I used... says it's Subaru Mcintosh specific. 

https://www.wavetech.co.nz/AANIS1R/

 

Even though mine is only an '04 I'm sure the plug that matches this one is floating around in there somewhere.

https://www.wavetech.co.nz/AASUB1R/

Is this what I should have been using instead? 

 

And yep no other connections other than Rear Camera for me either. 

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On a related note, I got a band expander for my BP  that used the plugs in the latter link and from memory I didn't need to wire it a power source whereas when I put a band expander in my BH wagon it had a separate power wire which I needed to tap into the the power line going to the HU.

 

This is the band expander I used:

 

https://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/subaru/935/14mhz-subaru-2005-on-band-expander/154139/detail

 

Obviously you don't need a band expander, but this is consistent with the Subaru specific plugs being needed to power the aerial.

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On 1/19/2017 at 11:12 AM, ADIKT said:

I used the latter plug when I did the swap in my old BL5 (kenwood unit) 

 

It's the same which is supplied in the subaru fascia kits 

Ahh is that where mine came from then. Pulled it apart to check and couldn't for the life of me remember ever buying the one thats in there. 

 

8DD2C917-1A8D-45B8-A593-35B8881256CC_zps

 

Piece on the right isn't needed and whole adaptor just plugs into the permanently wired aerial wire for the Alpine HU.

2DCBFB0F-19FF-479F-B49A-DBEE527F8E8C_zps

 

Can yours not reach without having that other adaptor piece?

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Cheers for all the advice guys. 

 

The fascia I used didn't come with anything other than the fascia plate itself (didn't need the whole kit because of it being the pre face-lift split unit). 

 

I honestly can't remember what's going on behind there but once this rain buggers off I'll pull it out and have a squizz but it seems that I may have just used the wrong adaptor/connector.

 

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Finally got the bugger pulled out today and here's the situation guys.

 

Goes from the factory Subaru grey plug to the 2 pronged 'Nissan' adaptor then into the stereo.

Should I axe the 2 prong part of the connection and just get the adaptor mentioned in the previous posts? 

 

Been trying to post a photo of it for the last hour and having no luck at all but I'm sure you guys know what I'm on about haha 

 

Edit... Finally figured it out, really quite simple in the end. 

 

16251579_10208341898561282_7459859334971

 

16179013_10208341900201323_9807861240771

Edited by tweedo
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I'd be replacing that.

Dumb question, but Are those nissan prongs the same size and length? Have you tried plugging them in flipped 180degrees to see if the interferance is any different?

 

Thats what you'll want, could probably get it cheaper elsewhere, just don't go getting some no name brand from ebay or whatever. 

http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/aerpro-apa52-aerial-adaptor-lead-subaru-easy-layby-5682?search=Aerial+adaptor

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The prongs are on the Subaru side of things (they were what went into the back of the McIntosh). 

And going off what's listed on Wavetechs site they will be identical to Nissan ones anyway. 

 

Flipped it 180° like you suggested, @Andy_Mac and stations definitely come through a little stronger but I have to tweak to just the right spot and tape it in place to get it to stay that way.

 

And now Hauraki, which was one of the better ones before, is pretty much non existent so I will get the other one ordered and fitted and report back.

 

Thanks everyone for your help! 

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The fact you have to angle it just right to work means that connector is a sack of crap, what i'd do for a start is with some pliers actually bend those pins a tad at about halfway, can give a stiffer connection and see what happens

But swapping for a single adaptor should sort it out permanently and is the better option.

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Hey all, 

 

Got the adaptor fitted and tested this arvo and.... it's a failed result. 

 

Reception is no better with this one than with the other in its previous state (before I flipped it round 180°). 

 

So its back to the drawing board I guess. 

 

I'm thinking, like you said, Andy, that maybe this original adaptor is a piece of crap and that it may be worth replacing that but I'll see what Wavetech come back and say to my email. 

 

If anyone can offer anymore suggestions, please feel free! 

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Kia ora guys, (seems fitting seeing it's Waitangi day)

 

Updates on the issue...

Took it into a local audio installer that I deal with and he said he would've done exactly what I have done so far to check for issues and couldn't really shed anymore light on the situation. 

 

Have checked that power antenna is getting 12v, which it is. 

Have checked resistance on all grounds and adaptors, they are all fine too. 

 

Checked resistance on the coaxial cable running from the head unit right to the power antenna and found that there is about an 8ohm resistance in this cable which, to me, means that there is a breakdown somewhere along the line, as it should be close to 0. 

 

Reading that the rubber boot between the cabin and the tailgate can sometimes be a breaking point I checked this out and the readings were fine there.

 

Which means that the cable between the back of the cabin, along the headliner and into the back of the headunit is bung somewhere along the way, does it not? 

 

So now that I roughly know what the issue is, what would people's suggestions be that I do? 

Can these coaxial cables be repaired or do they need replaced? 

 

As always, any input would be greatly appreciated. 

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Seems a bit weird since it was working before the HU swap was it not?

 

Not super familiar with car wiring and what kind of resistance is acceptable in a cable like that but that doesn't seem that bad. Take everything I say with a grain of salt though as the majority of stuff I work on is 240v and a bit of 24v so auto wizardry is probably a bit different.

Personally wouldn't have thought you'd be getting into a Kohm figure to notice. Are you testing the shield or the main wire, if the shield is damaged/broken you'll have super scratchy reception.

 

I've actually got a spare roof loom that you can have if you reckon thats where the issue is, came with my black roof liner. I'll have a check if the aerial wire is part of it but pretty sure it is

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Does seem very weird to me too mate... this all has me fairly puzzled. 

 

I've been testing the main wire and grounds via this guide here... 

16463566_10208408929317009_1883911401972

 

Thanks heaps for the offer too Andy, you're a champion. 

 

I will get someone to have a closer, more in depth look at it this week sometime hopefully and let you know if I will need it or not.

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