No BOV on TD05 ?

[THUNDA]

Hey all

 

Have been reading alot about TD05 turbos as I was thinking of going to a brand new TD05 with a 20G wheel, before I send her in for a tune

 

Getting conflicting information about where or not I need a BOV, is it ok to just delete the bov (will cause compressor surge but have read the td05 is not phased by it)

and get it tuned without a BOV

 

or keep the BOV in place and run a stronger BOV, then take it to tune

 

Any help super stoked

[Guest]

Yes the TD05 is phased by it. If you want zututu do it if not plumb up a bov. Upgrade to a 360deg thrust kit when you 20g it.

 

Dont buy a ching 20g upgrade a genuine mhi one with a kinugawa 20g wheel and comp housing 

[THUNDA]

1 hour ago, evowrx said:

Yes the TD05 is phased by it. If you want zututu do it if not plumb up a bov. Upgrade to a 360deg thrust kit when you 20g it.

 

Dont buy a ching 20g upgrade a genuine mhi one with a kinugawa 20g wheel and comp housing 

 

 

So not this? (assuming ching means chinese?)

 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-1245076321.htm

 

Where would I source a genuine mhi one? from subaru? if soo faaark i can imagine the bill for it lol

 

or do you mean get a genuine td05 16g (i think thats what i have now) and put a kinugara 20g wheel and comp housing

 

if thats the case would the whole kinugawa td05 be suitable or are they S*** too? 

[That Guy]

Yeah that looks a no name generic  Chinatown knock off. From what I've read ive heard the kinugawa items are fairly decent units. To be honest though I don't really know a great deal about turbos so I can't really offer any valuable advice other than don't buy a cheap Chinese item, they tend to go bang. Pricing on them is pretty damn attractive, much like a lady boy in downtown Bangkok. But we all know that once you've got that back to your hotel your in instant regret mode, wishing you spent that bit extra for the real deal

[Guest]

Not having much luck finding the rebuild kit but ebay.com.au is the best place to buy kinugawa.

 

https://m.facebook.com/brendon.teruna/posts/pcb.748277068671537/?photo_id=234635930320858&mds=%2Fphotos%2Fviewer%2F%3Fphotoset_token%3Dpcb.748277068671537%26photo%3D234635930320858%26profileid%3D100009782202481%26source%3D48%26refid%3D18%26_ft_%3Dqid.6377755612265542182%3Amf_story_key.748277068671537%3Atop_level_post_id.748277068671537%3Atl_objid.748277068671537%26cached_data%3Dtrue%26ftid%3Du_kc_13&mdf=1

 

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Kit-SUBARU-WRX-STI-T518Z-TD05H-20G-Compressor-Housing-wheel-/291758858610?hash=item43ee2ee172%3Ag%3AFUYAAOSw5VFWNgTo&_trkparms=pageci%3A317b3380-df3f-11e6-9bf5-74dbd1801d2b%7Cparentrq%3Abd2951501590a34fcc58f1a8ffb17498%7Ciid%3A24

 

 

[Passtheacid]

Have you considered Blouch? Modern tech & sharp pricing depending on the features.

 

Only downside is the shipping from the US

 

http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-WRXSTi_c_14.html

[slystiguy]

if you're going to spend $500 on a new one you can get something either rebuilt to your specs (e.g upgrade to an 18g wheel and retain the 90degree bend) or probably go for something worth the actual hassle of fitting lol. 

 

Heck you may as well buy @Jono24 twinscroll setup and fit that. More power all over the rev range and probably still see decent gains on stock ecu. There's no real point spending $$ on a 20g if you aren't going to tune it, and the stock 16g is way better suited to your car/engine 

[THUNDA]

3 hours ago, slystiguy said:

if you're going to spend $500 on a new one you can get something either rebuilt to your specs (e.g upgrade to an 18g wheel and retain the 90degree bend) or probably go for something worth the actual hassle of fitting lol. 

 

Heck you may as well buy @Jono24 twinscroll setup and fit that. More power all over the rev range and probably still see decent gains on stock ecu. There's no real point spending $$ on a 20g if you aren't going to tune it, and the stock 16g is way better suited to your car/engine 

 

 

Am planning on getting a tune done once ive finished my mods (which im pretty much done with now - just FPR left to do and gonna upgraded to a tial BOV) but was thinking of upgrading to 20g wheel before the tune so when i take it in PBMS can really pull some power out of it. the TD05 16g current in the car is in quite good condition as far as performing well and shaft play goes, it has very little shaft play if any at all

 

So thinking getting my current td05 16g rebuilt and upgraded to 20g with a straight intake like the one evowrx linked me to, then just putting a silicon 90* bend on it

 

woop :E

[Leufkax]

Who told you to remove the BOV? 

[A_J_T]

Depending on how much boost you run and what turbo a BOV/BPV is not a absolute necessity. but running none messes with the drivability and boost characteristics. imo a street car should have a bov for making it smooth on lazy shifting and to simply ensure reliability. no need to put something through more stress just because you can. Only time you benefit from no BOV is when smashing gears and the throttlebody never really has a chance of closing for more than a very brief moment. If you want to make Tuututut noises blank the BOV off now and then, you will get sick of it very quick. 

 

If its about cutting costs use a stock BPV, they hold over 20psi fine specially with a little encouragement from a hammer  

Edited January 23, 2017 by A_J_T

[Passtheacid]

50 minutes ago, A_J_T said:

running none messes with the drivability and boost characteristics. imo a street car should have a bov for making it smooth on lazy shifting and to simply ensure reliability

 

I've been running no BOV on my Gc8 for the past 4/5 months, no issues whatsoever with smoothness and boosting.

 

2nd Hand VF30 takes much more of a beating with antilag and is still performing well.

That said, I have a SARD blow off valve coming, to change the sound up.

 

*Edit* Also have Link, so no MAF.

Edited January 23, 2017 by Passtheacid

[Guest]

I find no bov with holset drives fine and upside is glorious noises. Its like a reward for touching the throttle.

[Jono24]

I've heard the punishment for touching the throttle with a holset is the regular trips to the servo?   :'( 

[A_J_T]

@Passtheacid @evowrx Yea i've heard mixed results, comes down to personal preference at the end of the day with things like this i think. Murch mentioned to me that most VFs will hold up to no BOV just fine on near stock boost as they are small and rotating mass is low. I ran without one for a while but with my application there is a noticeable difference when rolling through gears like a nana and coming off full boost in lower rpm and feathering the throttle there is shuddering and surge that just doesn't feel awesome. This topic has been beaten to death so many times its painful, end of the day 9 times out of 10 BOV or no BOV the turbo isint going to blow up or fly to pieces, possibilities of it outliving some of your other mods are higher than anything else. 

 

you are both running no MAF, i wouldn't be surprised the running no BOV messes a little with MAF'd cars similar to how venting does 

Edited January 23, 2017 by A_J_T

[THUNDA]

7 hours ago, Leufkax said:

Who told you to remove the BOV? 

 

The internet lol, but as you can see from this thread there are some people who say yes to bov and others say meh to bov

 

So if you REALLY needed a bov, the replies to this thread would be much different

 

Reason i took it off was to see if my BOV was leaking when i had missfire problems

 

Have only driven the subaru 1 since then with the BOV removed and pipe blocked running 14psi, i ran better with no BOV so assuming my old aftermarket one has worn out

Tial one has been ordered so it'll be sweet untill then

 

as for the standard BC5 EJ20G BOV it is a piece of S*** as far as im concerned, little black plastic thing, have had multiple leaking BOV's in past BC5s ive owned even on stock boost

[Leufkax]

BOV removal is counter productive as you'll get zututu from your turbo stalling and will take longer to hit boost again, pointless. I agree on the black plastic ones being shite though

[slystiguy]

Lol. I think there's a lot of misinformation in this topic. Low boost + no bov = fine. High boost + no bov = comp wheel damage . I'm not saying either is better or worse and that S*** can't happen or fail or last for ages either way. There are always exceptions to every rule and there are simply too many variables at play to say running no BOV was the cause of XX failure.

 

The term stall isn't really accurate, it makes people think the turbo actually physically stops spinning, this is not the case. The turbo doesn't stop spinning or spin backwards or anything like that, it's just the air that stalls. It always stays spinning.  GFB did a good video on mcm2 which explains it simpler if you want to learn more. 

 

A lot of diesel turbos don't run a bypass valve but most only hit 5-7psi