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Question for the GC8 nuts


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I'm going to check out a 1999 v5 GC8 WRX soon looking to buy it. I'm not too fluent as to the quirks of GC8s yet as I've never owned one.

 

Is there anything in particular I should look out for? 

 

Are there any specific spots that are more susceptible to rust? I know the older wagons often get it around the rear hatch.

 

Of course I'll check obvious stuff like service items, bushes, shocks and general wear/tear.

 

Thanks in advance :)  

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22 minutes ago, IZichard said:

I definitely couldn't afford the sti right now they are pretty pricey at the moment, especially v5/6. Convince me why I should keep saving for one.

 

Sti is betterer./thread

 

I had a V5 wrx/MY99. Then you add a VF but you cant add a STI ecu to reap the gains as its too higher comp. Shitty plastic restrictive y pipe vs smooth flowing sti one. It has 2 pots but you really want the 4 pots. They have black struts not the 40mm red ones. S*** steel arms rather than the forged sti ones you can flip for caster. 

 

Basically if you buy an sti it makes 160-180wkw stock you add an exhaust and ebc at 18psi and be happy. You buy the wrx you will always feel like you shouldve spent a little more scratch. Especially if its a fun car not a daily.

 

 

 

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I'm not really a huge power fiend though. I like going around corners, so i'm not too bothered by the power difference. I do see your point and maybe I will end up regretting it. I'm just not sure it is worth the price difference to me. I have no doubt it is the better car.

Back to the original question?

 

Edit: I recognise the brakes, shocks and arms are better too, parts for these are pretty cheap though. I see gc8 alloy arms for $100 pretty often.

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Neither of them are crazy power just ones slower than the other. Just bumping the td04 up to a vf on the v5/6 does wonders for livening up the car tho.

 

Nothing in particular stands out. Theyre pretty good really just the standard once over should do it. Half arse mods and boost taps are the only big things which are pretty obvious anyway.

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Keep saving for an STI..

Better bits,more potential and better resale value..

Classic impreza STI's in good condition have reached their lowest value..

From now on they are going to start appreciating and in 10 years will be worth good money..

I would buy asap and get one in the shed to take advantage of future gains..

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For maximum bang and durability, you want an R or RA for the unique drivetrain (R180, short ratio hardened gearsets, DCCD, and helical front LSD if you're lucky). Early STi motors have proper forged pistons too which allows them to take a lot of punishment in stock form. The bone stock RA that sold on here not long ago for 10ish was an absolute gem. Wishing I could've squirreled it away myself.

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Yes, don't get me wrong. You can have a lot of fun in a GC8 WRX for little money. It's just that if you start to modify it (say, as a club car or whatever) then you'll end up spending a lot more than the price difference just to get it to where the STi started out; you pay more for the parts individually than if they came together on the car (unless perhaps you score a wrecked donor). Just my 1¢!

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1 hour ago, IZichard said:

Yeah cheers, makes sense. If I pick it up I'll keep it stock

 

@Kiwi_Fozze will back me up. I believe I've said that statement before about my RA....

Nek.gif

 

Look at it now -_- More GDB in it than GC8. Literally. hahaha 

 

Also, on topic, get a STi. It's worth that little extra bud. Do some hunting. Not all of them are that much more. My flatmate bought a V2 STi Type RA for 4.5k.... A month or so ago -_-

 

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50 minutes ago, Timmah said:

Save up for an STi.. and a Link.. then get it tuned for 95 and live happily ever after. Bugger driving to Cromwell to fill up with 98 when you need to.

 

They run ok on 95. Idea with the sti well my thoughts are buy and drive as is. Soon as you add a link its cost prohibitive. Good gains but 3k is a lot if its just a fun car.

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Just now, GC8E2DD said:

Pretty sure you can get V5/6 ECUs flashed (assuming that includes WRX ones). That might be a much cheaper option than a Link and tune.

 

Yup indeed you can. However it is a bit on the pricey side as it's tuned using ECUTEK as it's the only thing that can tune them if memory serves my right. So initial tune cost is around 1300-1400

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10 hours ago, evowrx said:

 

They run ok on 95. Idea with the sti well my thoughts are buy and drive as is. Soon as you add a link its cost prohibitive. Good gains but 3k is a lot if its just a fun car.

Damn it, I'm just trying to make my monthly quota for Link ECU ;)

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