Issues with upgraded swaybar/end links

[RaKid]

Holy balls. New RE003s and an uprated rear bar do SO MUCH WORK through a corner.

 

I literally cannot believe how the car has transformed. Feels like a new car. Honestly can't rate this setup enough. 

[Kiwi_Fozze]

lol, good fun aye.

 

i have a 24mm 3point in the rear of my v7 wagon set to mid setting, whiteline solid HD rear endlinks

factory front bar, alloy front arms, whiteline front balljoint endlinks and an anti lift kit

 

on re003's its VERY tail happy. getting the front bar in brings it more neutral, but if they are both adjustable bars then i'd be looking to set em at mid on the front and max on the rear. you can start to run into issues with breaking the rear swaybar mounting links though, so keep an eye on it.

 

YMMV, but a big rear bar is gooooood fun, and having a bigger front bar in allows more rear bar which makes the whole shebang a lot tighter

[RaKid]

So, so much fun. I was having trouble understanding how much I could actually trust the car. It was incredible.

 

The hardest setting is the hole closest to the front or closest to the rear of the car?

 

My front bar is 24mm and two point adjustable to I'm thinking I'll set this on the lesser of the two options given that my rear bar is 22mm.

[RAYDEO]

On 4/12/2017 at 5:55 PM, Firenza said:

So I cant talk about this from an official stand point, but I've dealt with this before while at work! While whiteline lists those front kits for Alloy Arms, that information is incorrect.

 

Now i've talked with Red Ranger, who operate both nolathane and whiteline a while ago about this, and it seems they *have* changed it, but only on their Nolathane system (which is what I was talking to them about at the time)

 

 

However, the links are the same units regardless of brand, just with the different brands of polyurethane bush installed.

 

If you do want the ball type joints, the whiteline links are thicker then standard, and in theory allow you to add more tension to the bar, standard ones would probably be fine.

You can get a similar threaded link (just not as thick as the whiteline ones) from places like BNT. part number would be LR** where ** is the center to center of the ball joints.

 

They look like these;

 

 

So yea, id probably change them as even with the washers, you could end up forcing the bush out of the link with enough use and force!

 

 

 

 

This is interesting, my PB Legacy had thies links on steel arms, i swapped to Alloy arms and they still fitted of course...

[RaKid]

See the angle of the sticky-outty bit where the bottom of the link connected to the arm - that angle appears to be about 90 degrees. On my alloy arms it appears to 60 or 120 or whatever way it is - not perpendicular to the latterallness of the arm (wow so many made up words in the sentence sorry).

[IZichard]

6 hours ago, RaKid said:

The hardest setting is the hole closest to the front or closest to the rear of the car?

 

My front bar is 24mm and two point adjustable to I'm thinking I'll set this on the lesser of the two options given that my rear bar is 22mm.

Think about it like a lever. The longer the lever the less force is needed to twist the bar. So the holes further away from the bar are softer bar settings since the weight transfer has a longer lever to help it twist the bar and the holes closer are harder since it will be using a shorter lever.

 

In the case of your rear bar, the hole closer to the front of the car is the softest setting. The hole towards the rear being the hardest setting.

[RaKid]

2 hours ago, IZichard said:

Think about it like a lever. The longer the lever the less force is needed to twist the bar. So the holes further away from the bar are softer bar settings since the weight transfer has a longer lever to help it twist the bar and the holes closer are harder since it will be using a shorter lever.

 

In the case of your rear bar, the hole closer to the front of the car is the softest setting. The hole towards the rear being the hardest setting.

 

Very well explained - thank you.

[TerraForeOne]

Hi guys,
 
Replaced factory front and rear sway bars the other night with 24mm FSB and 22mm RSB but I'm concerned the FSB link alignment is not correct.
I read the instructions AFTER installing the bars and it says the wheels need to be on the ground/flat surface and to NOT jack just the car up and let the wheels hang down as this can pre-load the links. I performed this task by only jacking up the car.
Although the rear bar and links look just as I expected the FSB and links don't look happy to me.
Has anyone else done this on a GC8?
Can anyone provide me some feed back on this? 

All you are missing are the washers. You can add more washers to fit straight.
Once fitting your ride will feel very stiff in corners.


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[94 Leone]

24 minutes ago, TerraForeOne said:

 

 

All you are missing are the washers. You can add more washers to fit straight.
Once fitting your ride will feel very stiff in corners.


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even with washers the lateral forces on the bolt would still cause it to pop the bushing out under hard cornering.
It is the wrong kind of link for these arms.

[TerraForeOne]

You can then use back the semi circular ones. Those should be good


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