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BP5 - EJ20Y Engine's Out - Some questions


DuCKy!

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Hi all

 

Engine's out on my wagon. Cambelt snapped at 50km/hr. Car's done 155k, cambelt done 77k - Japanese sticker in engine bay. No idea why :(

10 bent valves.

 

A few things -

  1. Should I just replace all 16 valves? Would the valve guides generally be stuffed as well.

    New valves means that I'll need to cut new valve seats - do I have to do a light lapping between the new valves and freshly cut seats?

    Apart from valve seat cutting and light head skim - I can do everything myself. Just the cost of the parts suck.

  2. I've looked up the timing belt + associated bits. Bloody hell genuine (from partsouq) is expensive!!! Should I just get OE from Partmaster instead?
  3. My turbo inlet hosing has melted where the clamp is, probably explains my random boost surges as I'm sucking in unmetered air. - What should I do? Get an aftermarket one? Does anyone know which one will fit the Legacy GT?

         

I love my subbie so much, so sad for this to happen.

Oh well, after all this the engine will be near new with all new gaskets and o-rings etc.

 

Any suggestions and sympathy will be great thanks :)

 

Cheers

Nicholas

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did any of the idlers seize up ..Tensioner fail..?

Main reason for belts failing..

Partsourq do mitsuboshi belts that are half price of genuine..Probably the same belt at the end of the day..

Also do after market Japanese manufactured idlers for good price..

Tensioners are spendy though..

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Pretty crappy luck right there, saw your email too BTW. 

 

Surely you'd be better off just getting hold of another set of heads. Slight gamble but should work out a heap cheaper than repairing your ones.

 

For turbo inlets virtually any one that fits Legacy's or WRX's/STi's will work. Only difference is the aftermarket inlets designed for 2.5 engines have an extra port that needs to be blocked off.

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What makes you say you'll need to get the seats cut? Unless you've dented them when it all went wrong in there. If you use OEM valves... what's the issue? I'd give them a very very very light lapping and that's it.

 

The other thing I've got to ask is what do the crowns of your pistons look like; if they've been playing kissy-face with your valves they need a very close inspection.

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8 hours ago, pedro said:

did any of the idlers seize up ..Tensioner fail..?

Main reason for belts failing..

Partsourq do mitsuboshi belts that are half price of genuine..Probably the same belt at the end of the day..

Also do after market Japanese manufactured idlers for good price..

Tensioners are spendy though..

 

Idlers all spinning ok. I'm assuming it's the tensioner that's failed. The pin has a bit of play before it starts resisting force.

 

1 hour ago, boon said:

What makes you say you'll need to get the seats cut? Unless you've dented them when it all went wrong in there. If you use OEM valves... what's the issue? I'd give them a very very very light lapping and that's it.

 

The other thing I've got to ask is what do the crowns of your pistons look like; if they've been playing kissy-face with your valves they need a very close inspection.

 

I'm assuming the moment you put new valves in, you'll need new valve seats cut? Everyone on the net seems to think so otherwise? Yes will be purchasing new OEM valves.

All pistons have the carbon chipped off where the valves have touched.

One piston in particular had the valves sticking out pretty far, so there's just a touch of deformation at the edge of the piston valve recess. I'll clean up the carbon on the piston crowns then snap a pic?
Would the bent valve's valve guides need replacement as well?
 

5 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Pretty crappy luck right there, saw your email too BTW. 

 

Surely you'd be better off just getting hold of another set of heads. Slight gamble but should work out a heap cheaper than repairing your ones.

 

For turbo inlets virtually any one that fits Legacy's or WRX's/STi's will work. Only difference is the aftermarket inlets designed for 2.5 engines have an extra port that needs to be blocked off.

 

Yeap, super sad :(

I really don't know where I can get just the heads? It has to be EJ20Y specific too right. Most places will only sell the whole engine..?
Changing new valves over etc. isn't too costly - just depends if i have to change the valve guides and if i need to get the valve seats cut - which according to boon - I won't need to? The head surface looks plenty clean - don't think I even need to do a skim.

 

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I guess check with someone who does it for a living but if you're using OEM valves on a motor with relatively low mileage I can't see it needing a seat cut - the valves are, by design, softer than the seat so they wear instead of the seat wearing. The valve angle/s should be exactly the same.

 

 

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20 minutes ago, boon said:

I guess check with someone who does it for a living but if you're using OEM valves on a motor with relatively low mileage I can't see it needing a seat cut - the valves are, by design, softer than the seat so they wear instead of the seat wearing. The valve angle/s should be exactly the same.

 

 

 

I'm quite sure if I ask any engine machine shop they'll tell me to just drop it off to them, because they obviously want to do it. I might do a light lap or blue it to see if there are any recessed surfaces. Doesn't make sense to get all 16 valves redone right? Only the ones that are bent (10 of them).

 

14 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Got a used set coming up from CHCH for mine which came to $440 with shipping. No idea what OEM valves are worth though.

 

Where/who did you get it from? I'd happily pay $440 for a set of heads and valve train so I don't have to tinker with mine.

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