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V7 Sti Exhaust


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Could anyone with a V7 Sti lmk their exhaust setup and their thoughts on it, I want something a bit louder than the stock Genome exhaust and also something that works well with a tune as I might want to in future and dont want to buy multiple exhausts lol.

 

Edited by Subru
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Can't speak for the redline kit specifically but like you already seem to know - do it once do it right. My exhaust looks terrible and has cost far more than it should have after all the bits of cutting, welding and changing I've had done. 

Looks like the redline kit could be ok with a decent quiet centre and rear muffler. 

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Stock exhaust shouldn't be Genome? Would expect plain old "STI" exhaust on it, if it's got a Genome tip already that's a good start, get yourself a 3" bellmouth downpipe and a suitable midpipe and it should sound good.

 

I have an X-Force midpipe and muffler section, it's loud as F***, probably over the noise limit at idle, pretty obnoxious and actually somewhat unpleasant to just putt around with - but bloody glorious when you open the taps. Never been hassled by the cops with it but that's because I try not to drive like a tool. Contemplating changing the centre resonator to a AdrenalinR one to see if that shuts it up a bit.

 

IMO the best fitting and best sounding ones are JDM exhausts - I had a ZeroSports World Leaguer on there originally, it was very nicely made and sounded nice too, it was just too restrictive once I moved on from VF-sized turbos.

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2 hours ago, boon said:

Stock exhaust shouldn't be Genome? Would expect plain old "STI" exhaust on it, if it's got a Genome tip already that's a good start, get yourself a 3" bellmouth downpipe and a suitable midpipe and it should sound good.

 

I have an X-Force midpipe and muffler section, it's loud as F***, probably over the noise limit at idle, pretty obnoxious and actually somewhat unpleasant to just putt around with - but bloody glorious when you open the taps. Never been hassled by the cops with it but that's because I try not to drive like a tool. Contemplating changing the centre resonator to a AdrenalinR one to see if that shuts it up a bit.

 

IMO the best fitting and best sounding ones are JDM exhausts - I had a ZeroSports World Leaguer on there originally, it was very nicely made and sounded nice too, it was just too restrictive once I moved on from VF-sized turbos.

Okay maybe the tip is upgraded because it is genome and it does already sound mint and I like it so ill keep that. Thanks for the info.

Edited by Subru
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14 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Redline, best bang for buck.

 

Fit is a right prick. 

 

But for $500 for a full 3 inch turbo back....

 

I have one, v-banded genome tip to shut it up a bit, because OGOD they are loud

you talking about this one? is it still really loud with your genome tip?

https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/turbo-back-exhaust-kit-subaru-wrx-1992-2006/

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Some things you don't need to buy brand new - exhausts are one of them

 

Keep an eye out - even strongs (www.subaruspeed.co.nz) do complete 3" systems for like $200 at times, ditto for a range of downpipes

 

If too loud can always add resonators for $notmuch

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10 hours ago, Subru said:

you talking about this one? is it still really loud with your genome tip?

https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/turbo-back-exhaust-kit-subaru-wrx-1992-2006/

yep thats the one. dont use the up pipe. with the genome its really nice. quiet and no drone for long distance stuff and rowdy a.f. when you get your foot up it

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20 hours ago, Marky said:

Some things you don't need to buy brand new - exhausts are one of them

 

Keep an eye out - even strongs (www.subaruspeed.co.nz) do complete 3" systems for like $200 at times, ditto for a range of downpipes

 

If too loud can always add resonators for $notmuch

 

Pretty much what @Marky said.

 

I paid $200 for mine (c.s deals) which consists of a full 3 inch system, resonator, devoricd down pipe, reasonable muffler etc. No hammer bashing of the down pipe required for fitment. I did consider a redline kit b4 I found this one but was pretty apprehensive about running stainless as it is waaaaaaay louder and has a tinier note imo. Glad I didn't go redline after seeing some of the fitment issues guys are having with what is supposedly a made to measure bolt on kit.

 

I would just trawl the usual spots on the reg and go second hand if I were in your shoes. Dick heads stack these things all the time so it shouldn't take too long to find one. Another trick I use is to go through trade me and ask all appropriate wreckers what they have in stock or are due to receive. I've got heaps of sweet parts by doing this over the years. Basically just gets you in there before items are listed and you get snaked..

 

That's my 2c worth anyhow

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Deciding to keep the Genome and im keen to start on the downpipe, I know there are different types of downpipes e.g. divorved, bellmouth. Whats the ideal setup and do these things really matter?

 

Edited by Subru
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I've got the Redline kit, it's considerably louder than stock.  But as others have said, its great bang for buck, aside from some minor fitment issues...  Divorced vs Bellmouth:  Technically Divorced would be better as it separates the exhaust and wastegate gasses, but IMO all the same to me.

 

Will you be buying the parts then installing them in one go, or are you going to be adding gradually?

Going from a restricted stock exhaust to a free flowing one changes the back pressure, the ECU needs calculate this.  If you want the greatest gains from your mods, you're going to need a tune.

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42 minutes ago, yoUaReABUS said:

I've got the Redline kit, it's considerably louder than stock.  But as others have said, its great bang for buck, aside from some minor fitment issues...  Divorced vs Bellmouth:  Technically Divorced would be better as it separates the exhaust and wastegate gasses, but IMO all the same to me.

 

Will you be buying the parts then installing them in one go, or are you going to be adding gradually?

Going from a restricted stock exhaust to a free flowing one changes the back pressure, the ECU needs calculate this.  If you want the greatest gains from your mods, you're going to need a tune.

okay sounds good.

Im not looking for power gains now but I might want to in future so Ima get an exhaust and all that stuff then tune it later on. All I really need is a midpipe and downpipe.

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16 minutes ago, Subru said:

okay sounds good.

Im not looking for power gains now but I might want to in future so Ima get an exhaust and all that stuff then tune it later on. All I really need is a midpipe and downpipe.

 

I'm sure I've seen people on here saying that if you do a full exhaust without getting it tuned you can actually damage your engine if you drive hard...but I'll let the turbo crowd correct me on this...

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I know the later models (2008 up) don't seem to take full exhausts very well without a tune, but the GD chassis I think the ECU is a little more forgiving.  In some cases you can actually loose power.  To be on the safe side, I would recommend a tune.  

 

If you just want the boxer rumble, you'd be better off with just a Cat back.

 

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15 minutes ago, yoUaReABUS said:

I know the later models (2008 up) don't seem to take full exhausts very well without a tune, but the GD chassis I think the ECU is a little more forgiving.  In some cases you can actually loose power.  To be on the safe side, I would recommend a tune.  

 

If you just want the boxer rumble, you'd be better off with just a Cat back.

 

okay, might just do a catback for now.

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Removing back pressure can also make the car *safer* than stock as it is less det prone, the risk comes from if boost rises more than safe levels and is left unchecked

 

Do it once, do it right, big downpipe and no cat, then that box is ticked 

 

If you buy a tactrix cable you can look for yourself at how it's running (you can look at if it's pulling ignition timing, etc), or you can chuck it on a dyno for a $150 power run which can a) listen for knock and b) check the state of the air / fuel ratios to put your mind at ease

 

The main thing is if in doubt just find out - remember it's a 15 year old car which hasn't had an easy life, it is as prudent a thing to do now and then as an oil change if you're planning on looking after the car 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Marky said:

Removing back pressure can also make the car *safer* than stock as it is less det prone, the risk comes from if boost rises more than safe levels and is left unchecked

 

Do it once, do it right, big downpipe and no cat, then that box is ticked 

 

If you buy a tactrix cable you can look for yourself at how it's running (you can look at if it's pulling ignition timing, etc), or you can chuck it on a dyno for a $150 power run which can a) listen for knock and b) check the state of the air / fuel ratios to put your mind at ease

 

The main thing is if in doubt just find out - remember it's a 15 year old car which hasn't had an easy life, it is as prudent a thing to do now and then as an oil change if you're planning on looking after the car 

 

 

 

whats a tactrix cable worth?

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19 minutes ago, willisnz said:

Can you use cheap vag-com cables on V7 STI if all you want to do is log?

 

Probably but why half arse it

 

Use vag-com cable: Oh no it's pinging I need to fix it, wait I can't

Tactrix: It runs mint now I want launch control oh neat I can do that

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Agree to an extent, though not everyone has the knowledge to do their own tuning.

 

I was more thinking if he wanted to log stuff now to see how the car is running before he drops cash on upgrades, then buying a $15 cable is a an easy/cheap way to go.

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