Subru

Is my clutch going?

40 posts in this topic

I recently found that in 4th gear, if I boost it, at around 4k rpm the revs increase faster than normal but doesnt really effect the power to the wheels, does this mean my clutch is slipping and its going?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If its doing it in 4th, it'll be doing it in 5th and 6th. Subies will let go in the higher gears before you notice the slip in lower gears.

 

Chances are that yes, it is a Poked clutch.

 

When rreplacing it, use a genuine sti clutch. They hold over 260kW at the wheels happily on the factory kit, and look how many kms it's lasted so far. The genuine kit is an excedy clutch, and has an uprated pressure plate and release bearing. Use nothing less than the best :-P

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

If its doing it in 4th, it'll be doing it in 5th and 6th. Subies will let go in the higher gears before you notice the slip in lower gears.

 

Chances are that yes, it is a Poked clutch.

 

When rreplacing it, use a genuine sti clutch. They hold over 260kW at the wheels happily on the factory kit, and look how many kms it's lasted so far. The genuine kit is an excedy clutch, and has an uprated pressure plate and release bearing. Use nothing less than the best :-P

 

 

okay, yeah it does it in 5th too and probably 6th. What does it cost to get a new genuine clutch and whats cost to get installed or should I do it myself (never done clutch tho)? :o 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Genuine clutch plates, pressure plate and release bearing from memory is about 730-750 ish. 

 

You want to, at minimum, skim your flywheel while you are there.

 

To do in a shop, new clutch is anywhere between 1500-2k depending on where you go. Pain in the arse to do on your own too, them 6speed boxes are heavy. 

 

However.

 

Box of beers and a few mates can have it done in a weekend

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's pretty obvious if it's slipping; if the revs increase and the speed doesn't (by the speedo, not your butt-o-meter) then the clutch is sad.

Plus you'll usually smell it pretty quickly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, boon said:

It's pretty obvious if it's slipping; if the revs increase and the speed doesn't (by the speedo, not your butt-o-meter) then the clutch is sad.

Plus you'll usually smell it pretty quickly!

yeah in the last few weeks I been smelling some weird hot/burning smell. possibly the clutch now I think of it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last clutch I replaced was about two years ago and cost about $1100 all up..

Genuine exedy sti kit around $600 and the rest labour..

Shop around for good deal..

Make sure they price the exedy..

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, pedro said:

Last clutch I replaced was about two years ago and cost about $1100 all up..

Genuine exedy sti kit around $600 and the rest labour..

Shop around for good deal..

Make sure they price the exedy..

Our Mechanic can do it for around 1200 so that sounds fairly reasonable.

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't drive it too hard with a slipping clutch. You can quite easily end up ruining the flywheel too by overheating it and causing hard spots and cracks in it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the genuine replacement clutch the exedy one? 

I got quoted 795 for 'genuine clutch' and 950 for 'exedy clutch". I presume the 950$ one is not the genuine one but a better one and the 795 one is the genuine but still exedy?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Subru said:

Is the genuine replacement clutch the exedy one? 

I got quoted 795 for 'genuine clutch' and 950 for 'exedy clutch". I presume the 950$ one is not the genuine one but a better one and the 795 one is the genuine but still exedy?

 

 

Generally your average workshop works on 30% markup minimum on parts. Supply it yourself.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just bought 6 speed clutch and flywheel from drews automotive, sponsor of flatnats for 1100 dollars and upgraded to take 450wkw. I would contact then first will be cheaper than other options. I suppose members should support sponsors of flatnats etc.  

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The prices given is the clutch kits only, not labour etc.

If I was to get the genuine kit myself, could I get it for less than 795? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Subru said:

The prices given is the clutch kits only, not labour etc.

If I was to get the genuine kit myself, could I get it for less than 795? 

 

Quite likely yes. Hit up Hamish at sublab in Whangarei see what sort of deal he can cut. The release and spigot bearings are ridiculous money thro Subaru iirc at least on the 5mt anyway. Can always buy both plates thro partsouq and the bearings aftermarket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 09/08/2017 at 4:08 PM, Subru said:

Is the genuine replacement clutch the exedy one? 

I got quoted 795 for 'genuine clutch' and 950 for 'exedy clutch". I presume the 950$ one is not the genuine one but a better one and the 795 one is the genuine but still exedy?

 

Genuine clutch is still excedy, and when I checked part numbers last they were the same as the non genuine "upgrade" offered by excedy 

 

Imho

 

Go genuine. They will handle over 260kW, they are cheap, they are nice to drive with and can still comfortably daily 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Genuine clutch is still excedy, and when I checked part numbers last they were the same as the non genuine "upgrade" offered by excedy 

 

Imho

 

Go genuine. They will handle over 260kW, they are cheap, they are nice to drive with and can still comfortably daily 

yep definitly, was just making sure the genuine one was the excedy one. :) 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the only difference between genuine Subaru and aftermarket ones are the release bearings. aftermarket release bearing inner sleeve that slides on the gearbox shaft has a plastic housing whereas genuine ones are full metal housing. thats what makes me lean more towards genuine. RRP genuine is around $725.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/9/2017 at 6:46 PM, evowrx said:

 

Quite likely yes. Hit up Hamish at sublab in Whangarei see what sort of deal he can cut. The release and spigot bearings are ridiculous money thro Subaru iirc at least on the 5mt anyway. Can always buy both plates thro partsouq and the bearings aftermarket.

Got quoted $821.10 and $46 for shipping for the kit, Prestige is doing it for $795 Thats for the whole kit tho. Cant be bothered buying stuff from all over the place if it only saves me a small amount. What do you think you can get all the stuff for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Drews automotive got them on trade me for 420 and it will take the power in a daily driver. I don't see the point of paying double When this will definitely do the job. 

 

I wouldn't get hung up on genuine or not, I had a crap Chinese one on my car at 300+ wkw and it lasted fine, only changed it as I thought it wouldn't last, when I removed it, it had loads of meat left on it. I was seriously impressed by it. 

Edited by Username

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update:

So the slipping stopped for a bit however has started happening again in the last month or so and is continuing. I am extremely baffled as its not getting any worse, it still slips in high gears when I hit peak power but even then, it doesnt always slip, sometimes it slips so I lift off then put foot down again and its fine... 

Something is definitely slipping and im pretty sure its not the wheels :P 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the rear drive shafts. One of mine in the forester popped out and felt like a slipping clutch hen would engage on splines for a bit before popping off Again. The front shafts have pins to lock in but he rears just pop in depending on what type you have

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

Check the rear drive shafts. One of mine in the forester popped out and felt like a slipping clutch hen would engage on splines for a bit before popping off Again. The front shafts have pins to lock in but he rears just pop in depending on what type you have

Okay, what should I look for? shall I just wiggle them around or something?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Okay, what should I look for? shall I just wiggle them around or something?

This was mine when it was really just hanging out c6f5ee8b4a90241dec60ea05134c847f.jpg
It should be almost flush up against the diff. When it comes out under power well mine did sometimes it would make a crunch noise too as the spines slipped

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recent Status Updates

    • Steve

      Anyone going to Automania Auto festival tomorrow up at North Shore events centre?
      · 0 replies
    • Steve

      Does anyone else on here know or own one of the crouching tigers?
      · 1 reply
    • Matty t  »  gotasuby

      Help me please Hi iv fitted a dump valve to my vectra c 19 cdti 150 bhp. The 1 I bought was a twinport or receculation valve I don't no just bought and had a go of fitting it my self.  On looking at the car I thought I needed to block the 2nd port so have done bought a t and fitted it on the main intake Of The top Of The intercooler to the inlet on to Of The head.  Ran the bleed pipe and td it in to the on top Of The intake now it's just realeasing through the revs rather than when I lift of it's not because I blocked the other port is it thanks
      · 0 replies
    • WKDWRX

      https://www.instagram.com/p/BPPX4eLDujb/
      · 0 replies
    • Gordy Da Hori Hoon  »  RAYDEO

      Hi there,
      I paid online $20: for a 12 months ClubSub subscription.
      I am still waiting to receive:
      A Free ClubSub sticker A Welcome Letter & Membership Card A Discount Code for store items Can this be sorted, please.   Kind Regards,   Gordy Da Hori Hoon.     Hi Gordy Da Hori Hoon, 
      Thank you for your order at ClubSUB - All We'll Drive. Your payment has been received and approved. 

      — ClubSUB - All We'll Drive 
        Order #86

      View Order 

        Billing Address
      Gordon Samuels
      2/5 Arawa Street
      Papakura
      Auckland
      2110
        Payment Details
      Status  ✓ Approved
      Method  PayPal
      Transaction ID  3FY28950NY200842S
      Date  04/17/17 10:33 AM
      Amount  $20.00
        Order Details
       ItemTotal
      1 x 12 months$20.00
      Subtotal$20.00
      Total$20.00
       
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    37,659
    Total Topics
    533,475
    Total Posts