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GF8 Hesitation at 4k


Galaxanz

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Check codes weekly.

 

Before shelling out on $$ I'd check resistance in spark leads and coil pack and check against factory tolerances... Only say that because you have some pretty janky looking spark plug lead setup? And it does work on finding dead ones..  Also check all the wiring to and from coil pack make sure nothing is loose. Be easy enough to swap coil out and test tho if someone will lend one to you locally for a couple hours. 

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, slystiguy said:

Check codes weekly.

 

Before shelling out on $$ I'd check resistance in spark leads and coil pack and check against factory tolerances... Only say that because you have some pretty janky looking spark plug lead setup? And it does work on finding dead ones..  Also check all the wiring to and from coil pack make sure nothing is loose. Be easy enough to swap coil out and test tho if someone will lend one to you locally for a couple hours. 

 

 

 


Thanks man. Axle is hooking me up with leads and coil, so I will test that and see how I get on.

 

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Alright then so I have swapped the coil and leads! Immediately, things were better. The massive, jerky hesitation was gone, however above 4k the car was still feeling sluggish - felt to me like it was missing a cylinder. 

 

I took it for a big drive and gave it a bit of a spanking, and the hesitation has crept back. It's nowhere near as bad, but its there. 

 

So, would I be right in assuming that maybe the coil that @axle117 extremely generously donated is on the fritz too, and as the car/coil got hot, it started to fail (how i'd expect a coil to fail normally)? I wondered if perhaps the plugs might have been a little glazed after all of the prior misfires, but since the failure appears to have come back a little, i'm guessing coil fault. Would that mirror everyone's thoughts?

Ill order a new one from my friends at Subaru Lower Hutt tomorrow if so - I REALLY appreciate everyones input on this. I'm so infuriated that the problem I initially thought it was on day one, that I've spent 6 months trying to diagnose, is the fault after all. You guys are absolute legends. 

 

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On 9/5/2017 at 5:03 PM, SpeedySub said:

Sorry mine is different

This is my one

DjBIf25.jpg

IjLv1Yl.jpg

 

It does look like there has been some arcing between them

If you can make my one work you can have it for the price of postage

(or if anyone wants it I will do for the price of postage)

PM me man im keen to try it out. may help with the problem im having on mine

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So I have just bought a brand new coil pack, to be sure, from Subaru.

 

The problem still persists. 

 

Will do an ECU reset. The plugs aren't that old which is why I havent replaced them. FARK i am over this car, I just cannot get it running right.

Edited by Galaxanz
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1 hour ago, evowrx said:

Have you tried switching out atm? 


AFM? I have cleaned it and it cleared the code. I haven't been able to find one at a wreckers that matches mine and neither do the ones on Trademe. Someone has attempted a repair on mine at some point and has gooed it up, so I cant read the numbers off it, and the plug is long and skinny rather than a shorter stacked one. 

Electrics aren't really my specialty so I dont know if its wise/possible to rewire the plug for a different AFM model, or if that will even work. 

If the AFM was faulty, wouldn't the diagnostics have picked that up?

As a list of things I have done:

  • O2 Sensor
  • Knock Sensor then Knock Sensor Delete
  • AFM Service (this may not have fixed problem???)
  • Coil pack (brand new OEM from Subaru)
  • Leads (in good nick, from Axel).
  • Timing is fine (checked when I did crank seal)
  • No Vac Leaks (all checked by mechanics)
  • No Codes
  • Diagnostics show no issues

 

To do: 

Plugs
Crank Angle Sensor??? (This would throw a code though, wouldn't it?)
AFM???
 

Edited by Galaxanz
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I told you not to shell out $$ on coil pack until you have tested it:$. Before you replace plugs, try pulling and cleaning. If you notice one plug is distinctly different than the others let us know as that could be a sign of what cylinder it's happening on. Have you tried pulling off 1 single spark lead at a time (pull off coil pack but be careful) to see if one cylinder is dead?

 

As for AFM what colour sticker does it have? Should be an orange or purple I think, maybe blue, probably orange though. There's only like 2-3 it could be for that model of wrx so it should be easy enough to get one for it. AFM are common to fail and give a complete mindF*** of symptons so if it's 50/50 I would replace it. Can confirm if you take pic of your subaru plate/supply rego. 

 

I honestly think you are better off spending the $$ paying a guy who knows subaru to sort it out for ya :) no point randomly throwing money at new parts if there's something else causing the issue, I know it's a pita but if you go to some one chill they will be straight up about it and sort it out for ya. 

 

Also in future if you need parts, try partsouq, shipping takes about 1 working week and the parts are genuine from subaru/cost like 40% less. 

 

Also do yourself a favour and google how to test resistance on spark plug leads it's very easy, and you basically get this number and check it against the rest, if one is largely higher than another then you chuck it out, and you can also refer to factory specs. They should be all very similar numbers. 

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  • 2 years later...
On 2/09/2017 at 10:57 AM, slystiguy said:

Common places are the plastic turbo pipes on intake and intercooler. 

 

Big dredge but this! From memory intake turbo pipe is approx 80 nzd from Amayama for v1/2 wrx, ic is about 220 but surely something can be made up and adapted to the odd shaped flanges. I have a bit of hesitation off boost but no big leaks according to boost gauge, but I know these pipes on my car are end of life. 

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