Subru

Oil changes for my car

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My car done 140000kms and im wondering how often to do an oil change and what oil.

My mate swears that I must change it every 5000kms and use 10w40 (either 10w40 or 5w40) and NOT fully synthetic oil (for older Subarus with more kms). What do others think I should be putting in her?

Also, will supercheap oil filter be all good?

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Genuine filter ftw. But rycos are good too.

 

Oil. Manual says 5w30, but 10w40 magnatec is my normal go-to with higher milage. Mind you, im running 5w30 edge atm lol it was cheap.

 

I do mine every 5000km, iirc manual says 7000 or 7500, cant quite remember.

 

Oil pan requires 4.5l 4 litres is an under fill, not a good idea. Most here fill 5 litres of the good stuff, the 0.5 litre overfill is good for when you really lean on it, sure it may blow some oil out the head breathers, but i'd rather that than hae a bigend go.

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My car done 140000kms and im wondering how often to do an oil change and what oil.
My mate swears that I must change it every 5000kms and use 10w40 (either 10w40 or 5w40) and NOT fully synthetic oil (for older Subarus with more kms). What do others think I should be putting in her?
Also, will supercheap oil filter be all good?
Think of it like this, which is more expensive? Spending a bit more on quality oil and a genuine filters or rebuilding a motor? Big end bearing or ringland failure can be caused by a couple of things but properly protecting your engine is the best way to prevent it from happening. Regular service are a must for any turbo motor.

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Genuine filter (grab a sump plug washer while you're there) is cheap as anyway, get it from Armstrongs on Railway Ave.

 

Oil... with a stock-as-a-rock car at those kms, you're going to notice bugger-all difference between 5w30 and 10w40, especially with 5000km changes.

I run 5w30 in mine, slightly less kms off the top of my head but a helluva lot more boost and brum, contemplating going to a 40 weight oil in the future but it doesn't seem to have oil consumption issues so no great rush.

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Quality oil is only a few $$ difference. Genuine filter is the best way to go

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16 minutes ago, boon said:

Genuine filter (grab a sump plug washer while you're there) is cheap as anyway, get it from Armstrongs on Railway Ave.

 

Oil... with a stock-as-a-rock car at those kms, you're going to notice bugger-all difference between 5w30 and 10w40, especially with 5000km changes.

I run 5w30 in mine, slightly less kms off the top of my head but a helluva lot more boost and brum, contemplating going to a 40 weight oil in the future but it doesn't seem to have oil consumption issues so no great rush.

okay, should I be changing the oil every 5000kms tho? It seems a bit too much for my car.

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Your car isn't that old or high mileage.. 5w40 or 10w40 should be sweet. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to run a full synth as it should be better at holding up against the higher temps and also last longer. 

 

I don't use sump plug washers, never had an issue with leakage. 

 

Never used genuine filters but RYCO filters are good as they're made to OEM spec IIRC.

 

EJ20 generally takes 5L of oil. 

 

Changing every 5,000km is a good idea considering the age of your car and also the mileage. I have a 95 GF8 with 230km and do mine every 3,000km with 15w40 Valvoline Engine Armour. 

 

Generally speaking consistent oil changes are more important than the kind of oil you use. Having said that, driving a car hard with some crap oil in it makes me nervous. :) 

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okay, should I be changing the oil every 5000kms tho? It seems a bit too much for my car.
Ultimately the decision is yours. You could have the quality of the oil in the sump, inspected for particles etc. That would tell you straight away if you need to do it more regularly than you are at the moment.

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For anything 2000- use 5w30 or 5w40 full synthetic fine for 10000km but anywhere from 5000km on is fine. 10w40 is generally a semi syn petrol orientated oil or a late euro spec diesel orientated PAO oil. Any of the PAO full synthetic oils are streaks of ahead of a group 3 synthetic. 

 

With oil and filters stick to brand names. Castrol, Elf, Total etc and Ryco, Sakura, Fram, Wix etc.

 

Oil testing is generally Only done on engines where lack of production costs copious amounts of coin. Like a 24 hour container crane type thing. You generally follow trends through ongoing analysis and require 3 samples to determine a base line.

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Motul 8100 X-cess 5-40w  isn't badly priced on Trademe just throwing some options around I think it's $93-$95. PBMS old website stated they were selling the same oil for like $70-$80ish; I can't find it on their new website. Genuine Oil filter + Washer will set ya back $26 standard price just ask for their trade discount every time I asked from Subaru they were willing to comply. 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, BeastGRB said:

Motul 8100 X-cess 5-40w  isn't badly priced on Trademe just throwing some options around I think it's $93-$95. PBMS old website stated they were selling the same oil for like $70-$80ish; I can't find it on their new website. Genuine Oil filter + Washer will set ya back $26 standard price just ask for their trade discount every time I asked from Subaru they were willing to comply. 

 

 

 

Sounds like I need to have a look at comparable oil options thats complete bum rape.

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I spend $50 or so on Valvoline engine armour and it does the job for a high km car. I've tried the fancier VR-1 'racing' oil and there's no real difference.

 

A good thing to do would check what standards the oil meets, such as API.

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2 hours ago, evowrx said:

 

Sounds like I need to have a look at comparable oil options thats complete bum rape.

 

It's that badly priced? It was actually the cheapest I could get. All the connections I have can't get it cheaper because they can't get a discount on Motul oils. If my memory serves me right PBMS had it for like $70 Inc GST I think but driving down there and going back up would prove to be the same ish to $90 for 5L. 

 

My car prev had Motul H-tech 100 10-40w which was a little bit cheaper coming to to like $75-$80 I think. 

 

All up really I spent $120 give/take I didn't really think much into it as I use to pay around $70-80 for genuine oil and filter for my Honda and that's on a 30% discount too. 

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Go to lower hut Subaru parts, find the parts guy with the the glasses. I forget his name. Show him your clubsub membership card for a discount.

 

I used to change mine once a month when I was daily driving the Rex, its so easy there really isn't an excuse not too 

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It's that badly priced? It was actually the cheapest I could get. All the connections I have can't get it cheaper because they can't get a discount on Motul oils. If my memory serves me right PBMS had it for like $70 Inc GST I think but driving down there and going back up would prove to be the same ish to $90 for 5L. 
 
My car prev had Motul H-tech 100 10-40w which was a little bit cheaper coming to to like $75-$80 I think. 
 
All up really I spent $120 give/take I didn't really think much into it as I use to pay around $70-80 for genuine oil and filter for my Honda and that's on a 30% discount too. 

What oil you use for ur grb ?


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2 hours ago, Xuefenglei said:


What oil you use for ur grb ?


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5L Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 100% Synthetic. Get a genuine Subaru filter/sump plug washer is optional.

 

If you go through with Jacky he will sell you 5L Motul H-tech 100 10w-40.

 

 

 

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I put eneos 0-20 for my one now


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5L Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 100% Synthetic. Get a genuine Subaru filter/sump plug washer is optional.
 
If you go through with Jacky he will sell you 5L Motul H-tech 100 10w-40.
 
 
 

Will try 5-40 later


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41 minutes ago, Xuefenglei said:

I put eneos 0-20 for my one now


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Will try 5-40 later


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0w20 is thin. Run 5w30 full synthetic.

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0w20 is thin. Run 5w30 full synthetic.

Castro or Mobil 1 ?


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0w20 is thin. Run 5w30 full synthetic.

Or some Japanese brand ?


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12 hours ago, Xuefenglei said:


Castro or Mobil 1 ?


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Or some Japanese brand ?


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From what I've read on some Subaru Sti cars that it doesn't like Mobil 1 oil much. 

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38 minutes ago, BeastGRB said:

 

From what I've read on some Subaru Sti cars that it doesn't like Mobil 1 oil much. 

I'm pretty sure that is just the American Subaru guys having one of their stupid oil arguments. I see it all the time on US forums all based on anecdotal evidence with no real scientific method.

Eg.

Guy 1: "I've been running Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles with no issues in my brand new STI"

 

Guy 2: "My friend's cousin's Subaru looked at Mobil 1 once and cracked a ring land on the spot. I've been running royal purple for 800 miles on my fully built motor and it is the best oil ever!"

 

To clarify I've never used either of the oils mentioned above. Just take what you read online from those guys with a grain of salt.

 

Use an oil of the correct grade and with the required standards from a reputable brand and you will have no issues.

 

Get one of what @evowrx said above. He is the guy to talk to about oil.

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I run 10w40 penrite mineral 5l on my forged rs, change it every 1000ks lmao because it gets absoutely thrashed the rare occasion it leaves the shed. plus when you drop 10k+ into a car you get paranoid.

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9 minutes ago, Westy177 said:

I run 10w40 penrite mineral 5l on my forged rs, change it every 1000ks lmao because it gets absoutely thrashed the rare occasion it leaves the shed. plus when you drop 10k+ into a car you get paranoid.

 

Mineral is a horrible choice for any car especially one you beat on.

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The only engine ive nuked is also the only engine that ive run on synthetic oil :P, my STI. My 3 tracked mx5s all run generic castrol mineral oil without issue so far at least. Mechanic just said change it regularly and itll be fine, so i just put fresh stuff in every 2 or 3 events.

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