Suspension bushings

[Subru]

I think its time to start replacing bushings as they are probably due after all these years. I assume whiteline is the way to go here so I took a look on their website and im very tempted to buy the whiteline 'essentials kits' but my wallet disagrees... After a bit of research I heard the steering rack bushings needed replacing 16 years ago but other than that, im not sure where to start. Going to do steering rack bushes and possibly rear diff bushes too. What next?

If I had to, I could get front essentials kit then rear later. I guess this would be cheaper as a kit.

Rack bushings:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KSR202

Can someone please tell me the difference between these? (rear diff bushings)

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W91379

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W91380

[Andy_Mac]

Buy through @evowrx, he can get you better prices on Whiteline gear

[Subru]

38 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Buy through @evowrx, he can get you better prices on Whiteline gear

Yep, I got my RSB that way  

[Kiwi_Fozze]

Imho, rear subframe locking bolts are a bloody good move. Rear diff bushes don't normally fail

[Subru]

14 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Imho, rear subframe locking bolts are a bloody good move. Rear diff bushes don't normally fail

Whats the benefits of locking bolts? Does it just align the subframe properly?

[IZichard]

 

 

21 minutes ago, Subru said:

Whats the benefits of locking bolts? Does it just align the subframe properly?

They basically just bolt the rear subframe to unibody, instead of being connected with the factory rubber bushes. You may need an alignment afterwards as when installing them the subframe can move in relation to the rest of the car.

[Kiwi_Fozze]

My car (bit of an extreme example) could be pushed side to side on the subframe. (Bushes really old)

 

When throwing the car around corners, with the big rear bar, there was still a noticable amount of movement, to the point of the rear end feeling like I had 4w steering or a popped Tyre in the rear. The locking bolts fixed that 

 

+1 for alignment, had to move my whole subframe about 20mm to get it to all line up, didn't have a chance to get it done before a long trip, destroyed a set of rear tyres in 1500km

[Subru]

14 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

My car (bit of an extreme example) could be pushed side to side on the subframe. (Bushes really old)

 

When throwing the car around corners, with the big rear bar, there was still a noticable amount of movement, to the point of the rear end feeling like I had 4w steering or a popped Tyre in the rear. The locking bolts fixed that 

 

+1 for alignment, had to move my whole subframe about 20mm to get it to all line up, didn't have a chance to get it done before a long trip, destroyed a set of rear tyres in 1500km

i got big rear bar too... ima get me a set.

Do you just unbolt the 4 bolts enough to move the subframe then bolt locking bolts when aligned then bolt the other 4 bolts back up?

[Kiwi_Fozze]

Nah, I shoved a pry bar into it and shoved it around till it lined up lol.

 

Had to clean out the threads afterwards, but I'm adamant they needed doing anyway

[boostin]

Foresters have softer subframe mounting bushes than other models. I've heard that they're quite strange to drive when towing a decent weight! The subframes get all squirmy!

[Munkvy]

Do the front arm rear bushes, that helps add caster so the car turns in better and then if you get the anti squat stuff in theory it helps with exit grip, although I have never been able to tell. Rear diff bushes if they are flogged you can normally feel the rear diff clunking around under aggressive changes. Subframes bolts I couldn't really feel a major difference when I installed them. Swaybar was the biggest for me. I put the biggest rear bar on possible and on the stiffest setting it makes quite a difference to the responsiveness of the car. Then winding the bar down to a softer setting and doing the same course I could feel the handling was lazier and you had to be more patient to let the car settle when changing direction etc.

 

Other than that, just replace your engine and box mounts if they are poked. But replacing bushes is an expensive way to improve handling, I would suggest coilovers is better value for money. Although it depends on the goals of the car too.

[boon]

Best upgrade on an older STI: Replace the shift linkage bushings...

[Subru]

46 minutes ago, boon said:

Best upgrade on an older STI: Replace the shift linkage bushings...

I have the front ones but not the rear bushing. I tried to install it but failed...  

Not I have the correct tools I might give it a go tonight.