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Legacy GT brakes on Outback ? Is it enough ?


delta

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On 10/21/2017 at 11:24 AM, evowrx said:

@A_J_T 4 pots are thinner at 24mm max whereas i think the 316mm is 30mm max same as the brembos.

Yep, 30mm. Chunky things.

 

I've always thought the Brembos were more for bling than anything else, if a cheap brake upgrade is what you're after the LGT brakes are where it's at - bonus points for them being being completely inconspicuous unless you get pulled up by someone who knows Subarus well enough to tell that an Outback shouldn't have 316mm fronts and vented rears.

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On 10/22/2017 at 5:32 PM, Andy_Mac said:

You still on he factory Outback swaybars aswell? 

Nah I've got a Whiteline RSB now, helps a lot against understeer

 

 

23 hours ago, Zenki said:

I've always thought the Brembos were more for bling than anything else

They've got a few good/effective models, but I agree. I also think that most of what they do is just bling bling : bigger, heavier and less effective than stuff like AP racing for example

 

 

23 hours ago, Zenki said:

bonus points for them being being completely inconspicuous unless you get pulled up by someone who knows Subarus

Am I supposed to get the car certed if I change the brakes BTW ?

Edited by delta
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On 22/10/2017 at 9:08 PM, GorGasmSpecB said:

I used SP500 on my Legacy 3.0R with standard rotors and it was doing at least 5+ laps of Taupo without issue.  Boostin might be able to chime in, he was able to get better lap times than me out of the car, on what I assume are the same pads.

Yep it got raped at Taupo 5+ years ago, had the front pads smoking, and I'm still running the same set of front discs with no warping or machining. I only just replaced the pads a year or two ago too!

On 22/10/2017 at 9:08 PM, GorGasmSpecB said:

 

Yes it needs a cert, but try your luck first. I doubt you'll get pinged on it.

Edited by boostin
Double posted
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20 hours ago, boostin said:

Yep it got raped at Taupo 5+ years ago, had the front pads smoking, and I'm still running the same set of front discs with no warping or machining.

Which probably means that the compound of SP500 is relatively good : even though they got very hot, you didn't get any uneven deposit on your rotors. I'm pretty sure that the brake shudder I have come from there (uneven brake compound deposit on the rotors).

 

I was thinking about going with Project Mu pads but since SP500 are cheaper and easier to source in NZ, I might give them a try.

@boostin @calebwrx @GorGasmSpecB Does the SP500 squeal when cruising ? Any annoying noise for a road car ?

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Sweet, thanks for your feedback.

 

After thinking about it, I'm gonna go with the cheap solution :

- new front rotors from BNT

- replace front pads by Znoelli SP500

- change brake fluid

 

Should be enough for what I do.

I don't usually like having different stuff at the front and the back of the car but since there's more weight at the front and the car tends to understeer, I think it should be fine. If it's not it's easy to upgrade the rear in a second time.

 

 

EDIT : Which means that the LGT brakes that @Subirex Automotive is selling are still available. Had a look at them today, there's indeed plenty of meat left on the rotors but I would recommend skimming them before using them with other brake pads. I could be wrong but it looks like they were used with cheap brake pads.

Edited by delta
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have an old BH5 Legacy that I use for towing the rally car and once I used it as the zero car on Targa for a day. I have 4 pots with EBC Blue pads (which are nothing like yellows), and on good tyres it was quite good to use on Targa. Bearing in mind as the safety car and with no notes I couldn't go as quickly as the competitors, but we also have to stay in front of them, so plenty of hitting speed limiter and carrying as much corner speed as a 20 year old car with stock suspension will let you. Even found a pic of it:


http://www.proshotz.com/p170609214/e235944cb

 

Anyway, I found 4 pots with good pads sufficient. Track maybe a little different depending on how tight it is for getting sufficient cooling on the straights, but brake ducting makes a massive difference with that and is cheaper to do than upgrading pads.

 

Only thing I found is the race pads aren't much use on public roads, noisy and dirty and a bit lazy on the first couple of applications. So best to only use them when racing.

 

SP500 pads I have only used once, years ago in a friends STI at Manfield and they were fine on road tyres. I think you would cook them if you push them on semis.

Edited by Munkvy
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