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How to keep engine temps down on track day


THUNDA

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Hey all

 

Need abit of advice on how to keep temps down while thrashing the tits off at the track

 

My Rs is good for 3/4 Hard laps on high boost at Taupo before temps go above the 100 degree safety and it goes into cool down mode (changes rpm limit to 6000 and goes slower) 

 

does  that for about 5minutes then goes to back to normal

 

Ive already got an upgraded radiator, think the aftermarket turbo is just getting too hot and the water pump can't keep up / radiator might not be radiating enough with the front mount in the way

 

Cheers /:)

 

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Have seen plates made up that prevent air from going around rad, things like the top "slam panel" etc, forcing the air into the rad. 

 

Are you running an external oil cooler? 

 

It may be worth investigating water sprayer setup for intercooler if front mounted to try and reduce heat transfer from there

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2 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Have seen plates made up that prevent air from going around rad, things like the top "slam panel" etc, forcing the air into the rad. 

 

Are you running an external oil cooler? 

 

It may be worth investigating water sprayer setup for intercooler if front mounted to try and reduce heat transfer from there

 

Nah no external oil cooler, done abit of research online and it seems to be a key part of cooling for track cars

 

have also seen the panel onto of radiators, think my mate has one on his bc5 may need to convince him to sell it to me :P

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11 minutes ago, gotasuby said:

100 degrees is not that hot. Move limit to 110. If pressure cap is doing its job you will be good to 125 ish. Rally car will run a constant 120 no problem. Air ducting and a radiator water spray will help alot 

 

Whats 100 on the temp gauge? Is that half way? My temp gauge doesn't work at the mo (Ajay fixing it while it's back at his shop) I was just reading off the tablet link software

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3 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

My subie hit 110 oil temp peak on ruapuna, about the same time as the end of session and the brakes started to fade a little. Think 110 oil temp is sorta the upper limit that you want to be at, may we'll be worth looking into an external oil cooler

 

So is the temp gauge on the dash reading oil temp? Or is oil temp different? 

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100 is fine, oil will not have any issues till about 130 were it will start to degrade and brake down. 90 -110 is the happy range in our new outback.

 

remember low oil temp is also a problem as it becomes to thick and hard to push through the smaller galleries. this is why you can see really high oil pressure when its cold too

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Just now, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Ect, engine coolant temp. 

 

Nice, I'll upload the log so we can have alook 1 sec

Update

Whoops looks like I didn't save any of the logs I did LOL

Didn't realise you had to physically save them -_ - /learning

 

Oh well it was obvious when I was reading it that ECT went over 100* - Julius told me previously he put a safety mode for if it went over 100* and it definitely kicked into safety mode

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5 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

Hmm, if it is getting up to 100 then you may want to look at that, not terriable unless its only water in the cooling system lol! mine sits around 80-85 out on the track

 

Do you mean only water as in not also antifreeze? Definitely antifreeze in there. Hmmmm 

can send the log file if there's something in there that I might be missing

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Do you mean only water as in not also antifreeze? Definitely antifreeze in there. Hmmmm 
can send the log file if there's something in there that I might be missing

If only water and gets to 100 or over will really pressurise the system. Coolant/antifreeze increases the boiling point so 100 degrees won’t boil. Prob should look at how the air is flowing to the radiator. EG anything in front of it that can reduce the flow like intercooler, aircon. I removed my aircon and that made a good difference to the temps as now air flows straight to radiator and out the back. Also does the air have anywhere to go after it gets into the engine area. Under car plastics can stop the flow unless they have enough openings at the back or airflow aloud to flow out the top. The drift guys put spacers under the bonnet hinges to lift the back part by the window to help hot air escape
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5 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

What about oil pressure is the link got that info? Is the pressure getting to low?

 

Its got an oil pressure sensor installed for the link, however I cant seem to find any into about oil pressure, but yeah there is also an oil pressure safety from what I was told

Had a PBMS baffled sump installed so hopefully its not oil pressure but will dig abit deaper

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You could look at installing a cheapy android tablet into the dash and running Torque Pro for track days. Through OBDII it will let you add whatever gauges you want to the screen, Can have oil and water temps, intake temp, oil pressure basically anything your car has sensors for you can add it to the screen. 

 

This is it in my car, but if you look at the top I'm lucky with the ST's we got oil temp, boost and oil pressure gauge from the factory. 

IMG_0274.thumb.JPG.29d67db8583ad8240cf1330e3d446be3.JPG

 

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You could look at installing a cheapy android tablet into the dash and running Torque Pro for track days. Through OBDII it will let you add whatever gauges you want to the screen, Can have oil and water temps, intake temp, oil pressure basically anything your car has sensors for you can add it to the screen. 
 
This is it in my car, but if you look at the top I'm lucky with the ST's we got oil temp, boost and oil pressure gauge from the factory. 

IMG_0274.thumb.JPG.29d67db8583ad8240cf1330e3d446be3.JPG

 


Pretty sure the link ecu doesn’t support the obd2 plug as it’s all done via the inbuilt USB plug
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Just now, Kiwiflyboy said:


Pretty sure the link ecu doesn’t support the obd2 plug as it’s all done via the inbuilt USB plug

 

aaahhh yeah if its USB should still be possible but would be a nightmare on the android side to chance input source for sensors. Maybe a Windows tablet and just run the USB straight into it? 

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11 hours ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

The drift guys put spacers under the bonnet hinges to lift the back part by the window to help hot air escape

 

Try this its a cheap solution (like most drift ideas) and can't do any harm. If you're still running the factory hood scoop (not that they're very big on a BC) with a FMIC that could also be an issue as well as in theory it'll be creating a high pressure zone in the engine bay and working against the radiator and fmic, I'd take it off and see if it makes any difference.

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Ive got a v4 scoup crapily installed on mine

Planning on putting an oil cooler where the factory TMIC would be so kinda need the scoup

 

Going to make up some radiator "slam" plates (mate has one ill make a template out of)

Oil cooler (thermostatic or whatever the temp swtichable ones are)

 

Read up aloud about it last night so good ideas floating around

some people disconnect their turbos from watercooling altogether 

 

Also getting PBMS to have a look at the log incase its something completely different

1 hour ago, Not_Sean said:

 

aaahhh yeah if its USB should still be possible but would be a nightmare on the android side to chance input source for sensors. Maybe a Windows tablet and just run the USB straight into it? 

 

Yup ive got a windows tablet running the link software live :) ive got the data (well some of it) its just tricky seeing exactly what happened as im not too clued up on logging

I thought the car went into safe mode which is set at ECT 100* but it only got up to 95* unless theirs variation in the sensor

 

Rev limit on the Link says 8000rpm but in real life my car redlines at 7500

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