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How to keep engine temps down on track day


THUNDA

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Under ecu settings on the left -> engine protection you'll find gp rpm limit 1 & 2 (and a table if they are enabled). And check statistics to see how many times gp1 rpm limit was hit.

 

Oil pressure cut It wouldn't create a lack of power for a significant time other than when oil pressure was below whatever it's set for.

High ECT and or IAT would reduce power depending on what's in place (boost target reduced over 100c ECT or pulling timing/fuel/boost target at higher IAT)

 

Send me your log and tune file if you want (pm for email) and i'll have a look at whats in place.

 

 

1 hour ago, THUNDA said:

Rev limit on the Link says 8000rpm but in real life my car redlines at 7500

Assuming advanced mode of rpm cut is off, it starts "soft cutting" 500rpm early from memory

Edited by pl0x
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15 minutes ago, evowrx said:

Being a td05 you can delete the turbo cooling. Just bypass or I blocked mine with appropriate bolt and copper washer. Deleted the top side when I switched to custom header tank.

 

Yeah have seen quite a few others do this. Would definitely need an oil cooler if I disconnect the water feed right?

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My track car is pretty sorted for heat, I can do 20 minute stints screwing it and temperatures remain very stable, oil temp dont go above 90 degrees, unless hood scoop blows off then it goes to 110, water temps stay around 85. 

 

I run oil cooler in the Tmic position, aftermarket radiator with oem fans and oem shrouds attached, hpc coated everything, that made a huge difference to track day temps and temp stability but yes it's not a cheap option but by god it works. IAT temps were pushing 50 degrees on track now stays in the 30's, this is doing 1 min 15 sec laps around Pukekohe constantly for 20 minutes,  this is at mid boost (25 psi) on shitty zestino  road tyres.

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5 minutes ago, Username said:

My track car is pretty sorted for heat, I can do 20 minute stints screwing it and temperatures remain very stable, oil temp dont go above 90 degrees, unless hood scoop blows off then it goes to 110, water temps stay around 85. 

 

I run oil cooler in the Tmic position, aftermarket radiator with oem fans and oem shrouds attached, hpc coated everything, that made a huge difference to track day temps and temp stability but yes it's not a cheap option but by god it works. IAT temps were pushing 50 degrees on track now stays in the 30's, this is doing 1 min 15 sec laps around Pukekohe constantly for 20 minutes,  this is at mid boost (25 psi) on shitty zestino  road tyres.

 

Roger that

yeah I'm looking at setting up oil cooler in the factory Tmic spot

 

yeah I've got a big radiator in there (same brand as my intercooler, forgot the name but they have good rep) oem fans and shrouds 

 

did you get your intercooler pipes hpc coated? My IAT goes over 50*

 

I don't really have any CAI box which would probably help

 

Also the hot Ic pipe (turbo side) is almost touching the cold side at the throttle body

 

looks like I've got plenty of things to improve on which is promising :)

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4 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

 

Roger that

yeah I'm looking at setting up oil cooler in the factory Tmic spot

 

yeah I've got a big radiator in there (same brand as my intercooler, forgot the name but they have good rep) oem fans and shrouds 

 

did you get your intercooler pipes hpc coated? My IAT goes over 50*

 

I don't really have any CAI box which would probably help

 

Also the hot Ic pipe (turbo side) is almost touching the cold side at the throttle body

 

looks like I've got plenty of things to improve on which is promising :)

Inter cooler pipes are all insulated using insulating tape. But hot side is no where near throttle body as they run under headlights and twisted set up. With yours I would hpc coat using the cheaper lower temp compatible coating or look into twisting the turbo. 

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On 12/1/2017 at 11:14 AM, boon said:

Duct the radiator. Use a good radiator. Look at the freshness of your water pump and make sure it's a genuine one. Check your thermostat is opening fully.

 

Everything is brand new and water pump will definitely be genuine - Ajay fitted it and I trust his work.  picking it up tomorrow so will be adding an oil cooler, slam panel for radiator and forwarding my tune to pl0x :)

 

Taupo has a play day on the 16th so will probably head down there again

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Looking at a log ECT gets to a max of 95c, and isn't the cut so not really an issue. Oil pressure appears fine with no drops while revs are up.

Can't pin point what the gp1 limit is, thinking it's a table with two things i'm not thinking of.

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this is whats going on bro, not sure if you have access to yours to see the exact values but its the protection set up on the link by pbms. it's ect (engine coolant temp). there is rpm limit based on that on both ends (whether its' too cold or too hot).

 

there are other limits in other tables too which will retard/enrich timing depending on temps, but most likely this is what you're hitting. if as they say , ECT of 110 is not a bad thing, you could potentially play around with this? its obvs at your own risk, PBMS would have set it up to metrics they felt were super safe

 

boost limite table based on ECT (note that's MAP so includes BAP in figure too).

gQFCnpw.png

 

rpm limit based on ect. yours would be a bit different obvs since our redlines and engines are different, but if you find rpm limit after certain temp then culprit is this table right here.

lWuhORp.png

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It's not getting too hot, ECT wise it's max of 95c (therefore rpm limit of 8100 & well above the 5.5kish it's cutting at)

And although an oil cooler isn't going to hurt, I'd be getting a oil temp sensor and seeing what oil temp is doing first.

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46 minutes ago, pl0x said:

It's not getting too hot, ECT wise it's max of 95c (therefore rpm limit of 8100 & well above the 5.5kish it's cutting at)

And although an oil cooler isn't going to hurt, I'd be getting a oil temp sensor and seeing what oil temp is doing first.

but that screenshot is from my config, not his. i thought his standard rpm limit was already much lower , like rpm limit of 6.5k or something like that (regardless of condition). did you get to access his file to see the setup on that table? it was just my best guess that this is what is most likely happening

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Na I've got a log, and awaiting a peak at the tune.

 

I should have been clearer, there was a mention of a lower rpm limit over 100c, but it never went over 95c.

It's hitting gp rpm limit 1, which is different to the rpm limit you're describing.

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8 hours ago, Batbaruman said:

but that screenshot is from my config, not his. i thought his standard rpm limit was already much lower , like rpm limit of 6.5k or something like that (regardless of condition). did you get to access his file to see the setup on that table? it was just my best guess that this is what is most likely happening

 

Yeah it turns out my car wasn't getting too hot (max 95*) which I'm stoked about, have sent pl0x the tune file so we should know soon what the gp limit is, 

 

my cold and normal opp temp idle is terrible at the mo (fluctuating/stalls) so it will need to go back to pbms for a little tickle I think. Will be good to know what the gp limit is so they can't adjust it while I'm there :) 

 

Running great other than that now that my exhaust leak and temp gauges are sorted. Havnt thrashed it anywhere near close enough for any limits to kick in and won't until next track day

2 minutes ago, gotasuby said:

Got tune file? 

 

Yup just got it back today so have it handy

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Turns out it was IAT getting too hot which caused the "GP Limit 1" to kick in

Looks like ill have to get a CAI sorted :B and maybe some sprayers an d modify some i/c piping :P 

Will be going ahead with oil cooling mods also :P 

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Did they mention what values it was set to cut at?

Must have been IAT (>50c or similar) vs rpm or map?

When the car is dead cold, plug the laptop in without turning the car on and see what the IAT is, should be similar to ect around 20c or so depending on ambient.

 

I recently replaced my FMIC thinking it was doing a poor job (10c above ambient cruising and 30c above in heated driving). Turns out the sensor calibration was 10c high.

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