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How to keep engine temps down on track day


THUNDA

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36 minutes ago, pl0x said:

Did they mention what values it was set to cut at?

Must have been IAT (>50c or similar) vs rpm or map?

When the car is dead cold, plug the laptop in without turning the car on and see what the IAT is, should be similar to ect around 20c or so depending on ambient.

 

I recently replaced my FMIC thinking it was doing a poor job (10c above ambient cruising and 30c above in heated driving). Turns out the sensor calibration was 10c high.

 

 

Car isnt cold but when I went into the link software yesterday is said IAT was 23* pretty close to yesturdays ambient temp I guess - Its relatively new also but will double check once car has cooled down

 

I'm booked in at PBMS for 10am friday to get my cold and hot idles tweaked a little (running abit rough on idle both hot and cold, on hot sometimes cutting out)

Car idles great with cyclic idle on so i just use that if im waiting at lights for ages :P (cyclic idle sounds more stable than normal idle at the mo lol)

 

My FMIC is from FENIX - did alot of reading before I went with the fenix brand and i trust its doing a great job (from memory its only a 550 wide cooler so not your usual 600mm - another reason why I went with fenix when upgrading to a big boy radiator.

Also the ic piping locations mean the hot pipe comming straight off the turbo sits directly below the intake on the throttle body, there are lots of little things i can adjust which will help quite alot overall, currently installing a radiator slam panel (just modifying it to work around my p/s pipes)

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Sweet, sounds like the sensor is configured right then.

 

I wonder if the turbo is at the upper limits and generating hot air.

Yea all the little things should help - Ducting for core, heat shielding for pipes & CAI.

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Some things I was told about this week:

 

Drill 2 x 3mm holes in the thermostat, one on each side of the existing hole with the bobbly bit. It will flow earlier and better.

 

Use a good oil cooler and make sure the fittings/lines are not restrictive as that can make things worse.

 

Make sure your coolant isn't too concentrated as it will be too thick and so heat up more when being pumped. Also, coolant

doesn't provide cooling... that's what the water does.

 

And finally, a thick oil will also heat up more than a thin oil when being pumped and also travel through the motor slower

removing less heat... so don't go too thick.

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That IAT is a bit high regardless, I used to have the same issue. Putting in a smaller intercooler that doesn't block the radiator, shielding the intercooler piping from heat soak, putting inlet manifold spacers and and putting in ducting round the edges of the radiator - to force air to go through it, not round it. That combined brought everything back to sensible temps for me and no further issues. That's on a pretty stock rally car running a TD05 and restrictor and doing stages that go for upto 30mins at a time. However no antilag.

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9 hours ago, boon said:

I bet a shiny penny you're going outside the efficiency area of the turbo, and it's just turning into a hairdryer and cranking out hot air. Is asking if you've got a compressor map for it wishing for a bit too much?

This was my issue with my old TD-04 on the forester when they tried to up the boost. IAT went sky high and just turned into a hair dryer!

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18 hours ago, boon said:

I bet a shiny penny you're going outside the efficiency area of the turbo, and it's just turning into a hairdryer and cranking out hot air. Is asking if you've got a compressor map for it wishing for a bit too much?

 

20g/td05 Kinugawa unit. The turbine will be choking even with the 8cm.

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