External gate

[Loren]

You need the boost to be controlled by the ECU for safety if nothing else. But apart from that the ECU can control the boost based on many criteria,

a spring can not.

[Subru]

1 hour ago, StrokedEJ said:

As of now i have a 10psi spring in car and all i do is unplug the top port hose off my wastegate to run the minimum boost which again is perfectly fine and saves hooking the laptop up to adjust it.

Or you can get a switch wired up to disable boost controller so u can switch it inside the car  

[StrokedEJ]

Or you can get a switch wired up to disable boost controller so u can switch it inside the car  

Yeah you can and ive done before but if you go that extent you moswell get a boost controller dont bother with boost tees there a waste of money

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[StrokedEJ]

You need the boost to be controlled by the ECU for safety if nothing else. But apart from that the ECU can control the boost based on many criteria,
a spring can not.

Dont know about your spring but mine does perfectly fine. Ive been on dyno at least 10-15times to critique my tunes and wastegate spring holds boost perfectly fine

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[Loren]

1 minute ago, StrokedEJ said:

Dont know about your spring but mine does perfectly fine. Ive been on dyno at least 10-15times to critique my tunes and wastegate spring holds boost perfectly fine

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Just one example... my ECU will reduce boost gradually when temps starting getting high... like at the track...  a spring can't do that.

[Guest]

12 minutes ago, StrokedEJ said:

Yeah you can and ive done before but if you go that extent you moswell get a boost controller dont bother with boost tees there a waste of money

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Cheap chinese taps are S***. Decent ones like turbosmart are bloody good.

 

Both are nothing like a proper closed loop system which link provide where the turbo comes on quicker as the gates kept shut till its required to open.

 

There's no debate that a simple line from boost source to gate doesnt work just that its far from optimal.

[StrokedEJ]

 
Just one example... my ECU will reduce boost gradually when temps starting getting high... like at the track...  a spring can't do that.

Yes i get that mine does the same also drops boost pulls timing and fuel bla bla bla out. But i dont know of any boost controller that does that. Lucky for us we have ours connected to our ecus which for starters is a minimum 1k for ecu plus cost of solinoid dyno or road tune setting up. But this is about a wastegate which works perfectly fine without all that fancy stuff. My proof is my experience . Unless he has a aftermarket ecu and solinoid and the need for extra unessecery spending that stuff is irrelevant.

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[StrokedEJ]

 
Cheap chinese taps are S***. Decent ones like turbosmart are bloody good.
 
Both are nothing like a proper closed loop system which link provide where the turbo comes on quicker as the gates kept shut till its required to open.
 
There's no debate that a simple line from boost source to gate doesnt work just that its far from optimal.

Ive tried and tested turbosmart and gfb and once again from my EXPERIENCE i had a better results from just wastegate. Dyno proof (at that time 2007-2012ish) when i was on a budget🤣 on all those boost taps off and on i ended up just scraping them and sticking to just my spring pressure. Understand what your saying tho

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[Guest]

@Subru has a v7 sti which means wiring up a mac valve gives him pretty much the same functionality as a link. 

[Subru]

Just now, evowrx said:

@Subru has a v7 sti which means wiring up a mac valve gives him pretty much the same functionality as a link. 

Thats the plan. Already have it I just need to install before the tune.  

[StrokedEJ]

[mention=20252]Subru[/mention] has a v7 sti which means wiring up a mac valve gives him pretty much the same functionality as a link. 

Thats good $90 for a mac solinoid if recall correctly

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Thats the plan. Already have it I just need to install before the tune.  

Thats gonna save you alot money🖒

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[boon]

This thread (which was already kinda stupid) has gone badly off the deep end in terms of stupid. Does your suspension do absolutely nothing until you hit a really big bump and then instantly bottom out? Probably not... wastegate is the same. An 18psi spring will open fully at 18psi; it doesn't stop it partially opening way before that. An electronic boost controller (or Link/modern ECU + 3-port) prevents the spring from seeing ANY pressure until target boost is hit then it gives it all of it and the spring goes wide open. Running a spring that is firm enough to not creep open from exhaust differential pressure, plus a boost solenoid, is the safest and best way to set it up. If you don't run a controller you will spool slower, period. If you run a firm spring and no controller and your car encounters a fault, you cannot prevent the car hitting the boost level of the spring. End of.

[Gripless]

Do you need any external waste gate?

yes if

1) your turbo doesn't have an internal one

2) your turbo has been modified from original configuration. See 1) as most likely the internal gate will have been welded or can't open.

3) your tuner or builder tells you

4) you want the noise

5) you have too much money to waste on bling

6) you want more pipes crammed into the engine bay

 

if you want 4, 5 or 6 stop reading here.

 

Before you get there

1) use boost controller in ecu

2) use aftermarket controller

3) alter pill size in pipe to waste gate, smaller will hold higher boost. But too big or small make it hard to control.

4) use a different solenoid type than factory

 

@boon is right the spring is rated to be open fully at its rated pressure. It will creep without some form of controller to limit the boost to the waste gate until close to the required boost. If you ever get a turbo off the car use the compressor to apply pressure and watch how they crack open well below the rated pressure and waste efficiency.

 

the other important point is if you lose the pipe to the waste gate you'll be stuck running maximum boost of the spring. This sounds fine until you compare the gate area which is far smaller than the diaphragm so it works out many time higher than you'd expect.

 

in short get the waste gate that can control the turbo you have smoothly and get a spring just enough to keep the gate closed in the sweet spot for the flow map, and so it won't over boost. Use an electronic (Ecu or aftermarket) controller to keep the boost creep and spikes in check. Plus you can have hi and low boost settings so the car is more drivable. The higher power you make the less street able the car becomes and low boost is great in the wet.

 

added bonus is its wife and service friendly.

 

Edited January 5, 2018 by Gripless
Cos if it's longer, it's better

[Guest]

Man you guys use lots of words to say something's a stink idea.