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Bloody secondary air pump!


sh76

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Ok, I've just started getting a - P1410 Secondary Air Combi Valve Open Seized code. Looks like a complete pump delete and a tune to remove the related codes is the best option. Won't be able to get that done for a while though so my question is it safe to drive around? Some googling has me worried that if the valve is stuck open that the air pump system will heat up and things will start melting\catching on fire? :o

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Tested using FreeSSM and it's the one closest to the turbo (Secondary Air Combi Valve 2). I can hear the other one clicking when I start the test but not this one. Anyone have one they want to sell by any chance (or could help with a part number??)

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The one on the driver’s/turbo side get’s cut up when doing the delete so you’d only get one of those from a wreck if they’re happy enough to pull have the crap off the engine to get to it. Better off just commiting to the delete. Can do the simpler delete that leaves all the valves in place too BTW

 

Top is the turbo side valve, bottom is the passenger side valve

39309357132_9d179af738_b.jpg

 

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@Andy_Mac when you cut yours up was there a one way valve as well so if they fail the exhaust can't flow into the plastic pump?

can you drive around if the main valve fails?

 

Possum Borune Motorsport had the blanking plates really cheap, nothing like the 3D CNC alloy shiny ones but they work.

i asked wtf the plastic pump thing was for. turns out unlike Evos you dont use it for anti lag, though someone should.

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Where in NZ are you?
Someone might be able to disable the codes for you.

 

When it failed in my parent's STI, we removed the fuses/relays and just disabled the codes in the ECU.

We purchased the blanking plates but we never actually used them, so they're still sitting on a shelf :/

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Ok, an update. The clicking I could hear was actually the air pump relay. Seems the test doesn't make the relay click for 2, only 1. I then noticed that the relay for "Air cut 2" was missing...wtf. I put the one in from Air Cut 1 and the pump relay still doesn't click when I test. Some weirdness there. Not sure why it's missing or why it's never thrown a code before. Anyway, it did it 2 cold starts in a row and hasn't done it since (I cleared the codes both times).

 

Have ordered the KSTech blanking plates. Got both the ones that go directly on the heads for a full delete and the ones that go between the pipe and the valves. Thought it might be easier to leave the valve with the atmo sensor in place and remove everything else. 

Have ordered a Tactrix cable as well so I can get a tune and get the  secondary air pump codes deleted at the same time. I'm sick of hearing the stupid noisy thing every time I cold start.


 

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Good call on the KSTech ones. They’re the ones I got too. Pretty basic but hugely cheaper than Grimmspeed etc. ones where you pay for pretty cutouts and anodizing on something you’ll never see. 

 

If you go to the effort of removing the valves you’ll find the turbo side head plate actually works on the pipe that goes to the valve under the turbo and saves you needing to pull the uppipe to get to it on the head.

 

fr_3061_zpsljpjmqnq

 

 

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  • 1 year later...
Joker
This post was recognized by Joker!

"testing this button LOL"

95svx was awarded the badge 'Helpful' and 1 points.

Hi! Have the same issue on my 2009 Forester XT. There is a product recall for this issue. https://www.recalls.govt.nz/recall/subaru-forester-impreza-legacy-outback-wrx-model-years-2007-2014 and can melt the pump! I have contacted Armstrong in regards to replacing... waiting to hear back.

Here is the US info https://subaru.oemdtc.com/495/wtm-73-secondary-air-injection-pump-relay-2007-2014-subaru

 

What does the system do exactly? It helps remove unwanted hydrocarbon emissions, air is injected post combustion for a predetermined amount of time after the engine is started. The system is only operational for a small amount of time post start (the amount of time varies depending on engine temperature, but is typically around 30-60 seconds), and inactive thereafter. It has no effect on engine performance or fuel efficiency it is solely there for emissions control.

Hope this helps!

Cheers

John

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On 8/01/2019 at 2:02 PM, 95svx said:

Hi! Have the same issue on my 2009 Forester XT. There is a product recall for this issue. https://www.recalls.govt.nz/recall/subaru-forester-impreza-legacy-outback-wrx-model-years-2007-2014 and can melt the pump! I have contacted Armstrong in regards to replacing... waiting to hear back.

Here is the US info https://subaru.oemdtc.com/495/wtm-73-secondary-air-injection-pump-relay-2007-2014-subaru

 

What does the system do exactly? It helps remove unwanted hydrocarbon emissions, air is injected post combustion for a predetermined amount of time after the engine is started. The system is only operational for a small amount of time post start (the amount of time varies depending on engine temperature, but is typically around 30-60 seconds), and inactive thereafter. It has no effect on engine performance or fuel efficiency it is solely there for emissions control.

Hope this helps!

Cheers

John

 

Cheers John,

 

I'll be ringing them tomorrow for my Forester XT.

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Called in to Armstrong this morning and they won't replace under the recall. It appears that although in the year range mine is not on the Vin register for replacement. Weird or what! $1700 for replacement! Eek!   

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My 07 Legacy GT has just thrown a Cel so took it to Subaru Nelson and they pulled P1410  & P2433 which is Secondary Air Combi Valve Open Seized (P1410) and Secondary Air Injection System Pressure (High) (P2433) 

 

What is the best option here? get them to but in blanking plates? car is in limp mode too so not wanting to drive it.... 

 

I also dont really understand this air pump system so dont really want to mess with it myself...

 

Where would I get some plates from in NZ?

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21 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Think PBMS was doing them at one point. Depends how you want to go about it though. There are different plates depending on whether you’re ripping it all out or just blocking things and leaving it all in place. 

 

Ok cheers was just planning on blocking things and leaving all in place

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On 1/15/2019 at 0:05 PM, Andy_Mac said:

Think PBMS was doing them at one point. Depends how you want to go about it though. There are different plates depending on whether you’re ripping it all out or just blocking things and leaving it all in place. 

 

So got a quote from Nelson Subaru to install blanking plates and they would arrange PBMS to remotley delete the pump codes off the ecu the quote is $1566.30 + GST is this the best route to go down? dont have any Idea or time to do it myself...

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19 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:

 

So got a quote from Nelson Subaru to install blanking plates and they would arrange PBMS to remotley delete the pump codes off the ecu the quote is $1566.30 + GST is this the best route to go down? dont have any Idea or time to do it myself...

 

Fark that's a lot. Man if I lived down those ways i’d happily do the whole job properly and remove the lot for a fraction of that cost. 

 

Try a reputable local mechanic rather than a Subaru dealership. Most places will be considerably less than that and can delete the codes as well.

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I seem to be getting a different code than the rest? When my CEL came on, I got it scanned and was told that it had a code P0140 - Sec Air Combi Valve Open Seized.

 

I called Subaru and asked them for the recall but was told that they do not have any parts available on NZ.

 

I called around and was the best option that I can find is to block the code for $340 Inc GST. They will leave the existing pump in place.

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12 hours ago, darkbreaker said:

I seem to be getting a different code than the rest? When my CEL came on, I got it scanned and was told that it had a code P0140 - Sec Air Combi Valve Open Seized.

 

I called Subaru and asked them for the recall but was told that they do not have any parts available on NZ.

 

I called around and was the best option that I can find is to block the code for $340 Inc GST. They will leave the existing pump in place.

 

Yeah mine has that code too, is your car running okay? mine went into limp mode a few times...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Turns out the valve was getting jammed open due to gunk in the tubing; to totally resolve it would mean removing the turbo and taking the engine out to replace! Their suggestion was to disable and get the codes blocked. This was done by Prestige in Petone and all is going well... total cost including investigation work came $640.

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  • 7 months later...

Hey guys! Same issue here with my 2006 Legacy GT. The quote I got a while back for removing+disabling the air pump was about $2000. Have been driving the car in safe-mode since, which is pretty lame. I couldn't quite figure out from the comments above: is it safe to just disable the pump in the ECU without removing it? Does that work?

 

Thanks for your help!

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For what it's worth, I've been through this on my 06 WRX and fixed it elcheapo:

-Cancelled error codes through OBD2

-Pulled fuse on pump (it was fricken noisy from the bearing rusting out from too much moist exhaust air)

-Made blanking plates and jammed them inbetween 2 pipe junctions between valve and pump. Advantage of doing that it you don't have to remove half the intake and IC to get to the valves. Valves still there, jammed open or closed, it doesn't really matter.

 

Never had any probs since. About 5 years ago.

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