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Help please! V7 STI


Hayks

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Hi guys ive had a lot of issues with my V7 STI lately. Started off with a hesitation before boost. Cleaned air filter (was oiled) and put new plugs in the car. Fixed that issue. Was also ramping boost as rpm got higher and was super lazy coming onto boost. Simple boost tap (bypass the boost solenoid) fixed that issue. Was running really well for all of 3 hours then it threw a map sensor code, no worries chucked another in. Thinking sweet all should be fine next thing i know CEL bank 1 map sensor faulty (code 139).. ok strange replace that with a known good second hand one codes gone and now the car literally first start after replacing the o2 sensor has thrown code 128!? Coolant temp sensor and runs like an absolute bag of S***! Seriously cant catch a break! Has anyone else had this issue? Coz i swear I’m gonna replace every single sensor before it actually runs half decently... i payed probably more then i should have for the car and now its costing me a S*** tonne in extras and I’m starting to get over it FAST. Can someone shine some light please? Or lend a hand? Or there car? Please!

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What boost is it running?

Just waste gate or bleeding off to what?

Could it have been reflashed or chipped by the previous owner?

Or not tuned since the cat less down pipe (quick look at your old posts) that could explain the boost ramping. map and o2 both could be boost/heat related as, guess even same with plugs.

 

Other alternative is bad ECU from aging like capacitors (*cough* Mitzi issue) or alternator spiking (only as topic already about bad alternator today)

 

Again I know nothing about Subarus. Just asking some questions.

Edited by Gripless
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16 minutes ago, Gripless said:

What boost is it running?

Just waste gate or bleeding off to what?

Could it have been reflashed or chipped by the previous owner?

Or not tuned since the cat less down pipe (quick look at your old posts) that could explain the boost ramping. map and o2 both could be boost/heat related as, guess even same with plugs.

 

Other alternative is bad ECU from aging like capacitors (*cough* Mitzi issue) or alternator spiking (only as topic already about bad alternator today)

 

Again I know nothing about Subarus. Just asking some questions.

Bleed valve, peak boost is 18 psi and usually around 15 constantly. Apparently not tuned, supposedly the pridrive had the cat removed from factory (but probably wrong) boost no longer ramps with the bleed valve o2 sensor code is fone but instantly threw coolant temp sensor once o2 was replaced (never touched it). Car missfires and pops (what sounds like in the intake) when i rev it. 

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Not familiar with Subaru Ecu so no idea how they store or process fault codes. 

Sounds like it's running down a list so either to got a whole bunch stored or the sensors are all failing.

Since you have so many faults, you have enough faults that you need to look for a common cause.

 

Errors can happen when the sensor fails or they are outside the expected range. that range isn't always as much as the sensor itself can go, just what the programmer set as the expected range. 

 

Since the only common things I can guess at are the Ecu, loom and the alternator.

  • check the voltage at the Ecu and its grounds. 
  • Check the voltages or resistances of the sensors, you'll need a service manual which someone here will have a link too.
  • Check the main loom for wear and damage, main plugs and firewall.
  • I'd unscrew the Ecu and check inside to see if anything is leaking or corroded.
  • Was car imported from Singapore?
  • not sure how you check but water damage and re-compliance.

 

someone on here will know way more about how the Ecu in Subarus deals with faults etc. 

Edited by Gripless
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34 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

I'd check the loom connector plug in the engine bay for oil ingress, as well as the ecu itself. The avcs sensors are known to leak, which forces oil up the inside of the cable and into the ecu which can cause a whole world of issues

Yep this is the issue according to FB he has oil in the loom

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12 hours ago, Skatieguy said:

Yep this is the issue according to FB he has oil in the loom

 

1 hour ago, Joker said:

similar problem with another user on here : here : 

not new & there is a fix but yeah...

Traced my wireing and seems as though only the short plug harbess from the avcs sensors have oil in them. Theres nothing in other sensors nor in the chassis plug. There was only a build up of oil in my coolant temp sensor which someone had dodgied up before hand aswell (broken plug clip and stripped esposed wires with solder on them 

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Sounds a lot like my V7 bro, I brought it then spent 5k on it within a month ha ha. I ended up just giving mine to D tech to look over everything write a list and fix most of it. then I got it finished by Prestige motorsport as I live in wellington but maybe just drop it to a well known place who can give it a scan and fix anything that's needed? (unsure where you are located)

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48 minutes ago, Inked said:

Sounds a lot like my V7 bro, I brought it then spent 5k on it within a month ha ha. I ended up just giving mine to D tech to look over everything write a list and fix most of it. then I got it finished by Prestige motorsport as I live in wellington but maybe just drop it to a well known place who can give it a scan and fix anything that's needed? (unsure where you are located)

Damn... I got pretty lucky with mine, no issues yet.

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The first thing you want to do is remove the boost tap, seriously it's a relatively modern car with sophisticated factory boost control, some of which is there to protect your engine if things go wrong, it's not an early 90's Mazda running wastegate pressure so let the ECU do what it's supposed to and control the boost.

 

I reckon there's something dicky going on around the ECU or grounds. Unless your car is flood damaged or something it would be really weird to have all those sensors fail in quick succession like that.

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On 29/12/2017 at 2:33 PM, McMatty said:

Depending on how long ago you bought it, isn’t the previous owner liable to fix these things?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If bought privately, nope. 

 

This case shows why proper diagnostic process should be followed, rather than assuming, throwing parts at it, and hoping.

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On 12/29/2017 at 0:28 PM, boon said:

The first thing you want to do is remove the boost tap, seriously it's a relatively modern car with sophisticated factory boost control, some of which is there to protect your engine if things go wrong, it's not an early 90's Mazda running wastegate pressure so let the ECU do what it's supposed to and control the boost.

 

I reckon there's something dicky going on around the ECU or grounds. Unless your car is flood damaged or something it would be really weird to have all those sensors fail in quick succession like that.

So why would my boost be coming on super slowly? It doesnt have full boost till 6000rpm. The ecu earths may be a little dodgy as the car stutters intermittently. Since getting it running properly again it has thrown the map sensor code afew times but i have replaced the map with a known good one off a running car. But the CEL has not come on for 2-3 days now 

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23 hours ago, Hayks said:

So why would my boost be coming on super slowly? It doesnt have full boost till 6000rpm. The ecu earths may be a little dodgy as the car stutters intermittently. Since getting it running properly again it has thrown the map sensor code afew times but i have replaced the map with a known good one off a running car. But the CEL has not come on for 2-3 days now 

 

Faulty boost solenoid? Or exhaust leak or rooted turbo.

 

Seriously, what is a boost tap going to do to bring on boost faster, other than hide another faulty component?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/4/2018 at 6:52 PM, boon said:

 

Faulty boost solenoid? Or exhaust leak or rooted turbo.

 

Seriously, what is a boost tap going to do to bring on boost faster, other than hide another faulty component?

 

FYI it did alot. Full boost at 3500rpm and is running solidly now at 17psi. Also if it was an exhaust leak i think id hear it lol. Thanks.

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10 hours ago, Hayks said:

 

FYI it did alot. Full boost at 3500rpm and is running solidly now at 17psi. Also if it was an exhaust leak i think id hear it lol. Thanks.

 

If it did a lot then something else is broken. If you put a boost tap on a properly functioning and assembled V7 it does precisely three-fifths of F***-all.

17psi is slightly less than a V7 should be making anyway, and 3500rpm is about where they spool when they roll out the factory door.

So you have a. hidden a fault in something else b. reduced the boost to below stock levels and c. removed any ability for the car to protect itself (boost cut) if there is a fault.

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4 hours ago, boon said:

 

If it did a lot then something else is broken. If you put a boost tap on a properly functioning and assembled V7 it does precisely three-fifths of F***-all.

17psi is slightly less than a V7 should be making anyway, and 3500rpm is about where they spool when they roll out the factory door.

So you have a. hidden a fault in something else b. reduced the boost to below stock levels and c. removed any ability for the car to protect itself (boost cut) if there is a fault.

 

Yup i know theres a fualt, its getting sorted with a tune. Came here to ask for help not be lectured by people who are unhappy with the way i chose to controll my boost temporarily till it gets tuned. The boost solenoid is fualty and its getting replaced when it goes to auckland. Thanks. 

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16 minutes ago, Hayks said:

 

Yup i know theres a fualt, its getting sorted with a tune. Came here to ask for help not be lectured by people who are unhappy with the way i chose to controll my boost temporarily till it gets tuned. The boost solenoid is fualty and its getting replaced when it goes to auckland. Thanks. 

 

It sounds like you know all the answers already?

 

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Holy F*** this forums worse then honda ones. If you cant respect the my wishes of using a boost tap FOR THE TIME BEING then whats the point in modifying a car at all? Seems like OEM is best in all cases here? My boost solenoid has had it. I couldnt afford to replace it so i used a boost tap from a mate for probably 500kms of driving. Now its off the road. Selling the original bottom end buying a brand new crate short block and re freshing my heads awaiting tune. Where i will Be replacing the boost solenoid with an aftermarket 3port item. If you cant respect that then please delete me as a user. 

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So you knew you had a faulty solenoid and never said that until now. 

Should have just asked, I'm sure there are plenty of people here that would have a spare for cheap and helped you out.

 

if you'd read some of the rest of the forums then you know how much @boon has done to his car and it's probably a good idea to listen. 

 

And yes OEM boost control is best until you go to a new Ecu or high end electronic controller. 

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3 hours ago, Hayks said:

Holy F*** this forums worse then honda ones. If you cant respect the my wishes of using a boost tap FOR THE TIME BEING then whats the point in modifying a car at all? Seems like OEM is best in all cases here? My boost solenoid has had it. I couldnt afford to replace it so i used a boost tap from a mate for probably 500kms of driving. Now its off the road. Selling the original bottom end buying a brand new crate short block and re freshing my heads awaiting tune. Where i will Be replacing the boost solenoid with an aftermarket 3port item. If you cant respect that then please delete me as a user. 

 

You could have said all of the above when you started the post? If you had said "it has a F***ed boost solenoid and I'm going to a 3-port and refreshing the entire motor, I just need something to make it not suck for 3 weeks" then you would have got a very different bunch of answers...

 

From your original post, if it's actually all of those sensors failing then either the car has HEAPS of KMs on it and you're just really unlucky, or my next bet would be that it's flood damaged.

If the sensors are actually fine, I would bet on the ECU being faulty. But you hardly ever hear about them failing on these cars, so again I would be extremely sceptical about water damage. I reckon pull up some of the carpet around the passenger footwell and check for signs of water, also check the spare tyre well, and the piece of wood that sits under the boot carpet.

 

It still sounds like the car has a bunch of issues that a fresh block and a tune aren't going to resolve; if you couldn't afford a boost solenoid then I hope your circumstances have improved because it can be a long and expensive journey depending what's causing the problems.

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