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Snapped Up Pipe


boyracer693

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So....Driving home from Auckland the other night i was driving fine as normal. Reached Hamilton was almost home then my car decided to sound like a tractor. No dramas cause i knew about a slight exhaust leak i had on the up pipe flange joining the manifold...Get stuck into it the next morning and low and behold...not just a blown gasket. The whole damn flange has snapped off the exhaust....Well S***. Anyone had this happen before?

Obviously leaving an exhaust leak for that long was not my smartest decision but its obviously had a crack in the weld and gotten worse over time. 

Check it out!

ueqXaeK.jpg

 

Obviously a weld up jobbie, so easy as. Marked it and welded it...Go to put it back on and that damn bolt next to the turbo was being alot of fun, okay screw it ill put the manifold back together and bolt the up pipe back on....oh hold on....DAMNIT! the flange is on the wrong angle....ROOKIE! Thats what happens when you try and do jobs as fast as you can to get your car going...

Moral of the story...DO THINGS PROPERLY TO BEGIN WITH! 

now i have to wait for either my mate to come back and bring his welder so we can get it right the second time OR find another Up pipe(factory or stainless) and fit that on....

 

Anyone else had a similar experience where a small job turned into a big one?

 

On a side note...i still love Subarus haha

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4 minutes ago, boyracer693 said:

Can i keep it the same size or do i have to reduce it down like it was?

 

Any size is fine - the hose just vents the excess air back into the intake - you could leave it unplugged and nothing would happen - but obviously plug it back in so its working how its designed to work.

 

I got an Arc welder for xmas so im looking forward to jobs like these lol - Ive already welded about 10 old spanners to an old spade for no reason ^_ ^

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6 minutes ago, boyracer693 said:

Mint! Wasnt sure if there is a boost pill in there so didnt wanna take the risk

Thanks man! 

Arc welder sounds like fun. Expect to see some of your projects on the DIY & Crafts page on facebook in the near future then? haha

 

Oh I forgot newer cars came with that pill thing, you'll have to check with your car specifically, ive heard about this pill but never actually seen one

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Are you running stock headers or aftermarket? Also have you tutu'd with the turbo at all, and are all of the braces back where they're supposed to be? That joint should be under very, very little stress when everything is where it's supposed to be.

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9 hours ago, boon said:

Are you running stock headers or aftermarket? Also have you tutu'd with the turbo at all, and are all of the braces back where they're supposed to be? That joint should be under very, very little stress when everything is where it's supposed to be.

 

Stock headers, aftermarket stainless up pipe(which came with the car), not touched the turbo at all. Yeah thats what i thought being that its bolted from up top and bottom. Its probably under a little bit of stress now because the flange was out again(DOH!) so its slightly persuaded into place but its only temporary till i find a suitable replacement.

10 hours ago, THUNDA said:

 

Oh I forgot newer cars came with that pill thing, you'll have to check with your car specifically, ive heard about this pill but never actually seen one

Yeah i found it in between the T piece of the Wastegate Actuator and my Turbo, came out easy enough with a scriber and pushed it into a new vacuum hose which i have replaced the old one with but luckily the hose i snapped didnt have one in it(checked about 10 times just incase) so im all sorted with that now. 

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Manged to score a V1-v5 up pipe for 60 bucks, noticed that it didnt have a hole for the EGT sensor so may have to do the 2.2Kohm resistor mod. 

 

So if all else fails, i have that as a back up. Question is, If i clear the check engine light associated with the EGT sensor and i dont do the resistor mod would the error re-appear?

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1 minute ago, calebwrx said:

Yes it will. Stick a resistor in there or get the CEL disabled by a tuner

Thought so but wanted to make sure. Resistors are cheap anyway so thats not too hard. I can easy go to Supercheap and use their ODB2 scanner to disable to code if it comes up anyway. Was gonna drive with the light on. Shouldnt matter aye? or will it throw a hissyfit?

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I had an uppipe leak once, thought it was just a leak, turned out the flexi was torn completely around the join. Ended up getting the flexi cut out and a straight pipe welded in it's place. Couple days before I put down 170kw on a grey injector ecu, always wanted to put it back on after repair to see if it made more power but never got to it. 

pro tip, use steel rods/plates to weld from one flange to the other flange so it doesn't move from the factory location when welding ;) 

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