• Current Donation Goals

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
TNHSTI

Legacy Cambelt

18 posts in this topic

Howdy team!

 

I recently bought a 2007 Legacy GT Sedan from MotorCo in Auckland the car has just clicked over 106,000kms and at the time they informed me it had had the cambelt done, it turns out that is incorrect and they have offered to pay to get it done which is great! however they are not sending it to the Nelson Subaru Dealer here and are using another company which is trustworthy but wont be using genuine parts..

 

Should I be worried about this? I personally dont get anything else when I am paying for Subaru parts, should I try to get them to make sure genuine parts are used?

 

Appreciate Peoples feedback

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should go genuine for cambelt parts. Could offer to make up the cost difference between the aftermarket and genuine parts.

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

Should go genuine for cambelt parts. Could offer to make up the cost difference between the aftermarket and genuine parts.

 

Yes that sounds like a plan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As someone who was on the tools once upon a time, if you're REALLY particular, go genuine.

Otherwise OEM stuff is great. Just make sure that the bearings in the idlers are Made in Japan, not China.

And you'll want all idlers (there's 4), tensioner and water pump done too. Cam and crank seals - probably worthwhile doing.

 

I did my cambelt myself - Speed Academy have an excellent video on this.

I used a Gates kit, with a GMB water pump for my car. Wanted the Gates Blue Racing cambelt - but nearest one was Melbourne. Next time!

Edited by Individualities
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go genuine,Subaru have made changes to the idler bearings.Was also told the genuine belt gives more accurate timing and that the variable cam timing is harder on belts.MRT Performance YouTube “Old vs new  Ej cam and timing belt comparison,what to look for” just posted.

Edited by Dre
3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Dre said:

Go genuine, Subaru have made changes to the idler bearings. Was also told the genuine belt gives more accurate timing and that the variable cam timing is harder on belts.

 

Good to know. Definitely will push this on my friends irl that have a BP/BL Legacy then. Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is a good km's to get cambelt changed?

 

My legacy is almost hitting 80,000km and doesnt seem it has been done yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, HannesNel said:

cambelt

 

100,000km is recommended (not sure of the similar time frame 5 years?)

 

Allow $1-1500 if your getting a workshop to do it

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard 70,000 - 100,000km depending on the person (lower due to the length of the belt). 5 years is generally the go-to years, as the hydraulic tensioner generally starts to fail after 5 years, resulting in improper tension on the belt.

 

This video gave me the courage to do my cambelt! They don't go through how to do cam/crank-seals, but I'd imagine they'd be pretty easy. There is a process IIRC to removing AVCS cam pulleys - there will be a video out there.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thansk gents. Yip, I want to attempt to do it myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

then you'll probably want to have a look at this post : 

 

and this might be a link to the same YT Vids posted above :

 

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, HannesNel said:

Thansk gents. Yip, I want to attempt to do it myself.

 

A cool head is needed for a Subaru cambelt - especially a DOHC one. There's a lot going on, and lining everything up can be a bit of a challenge. Took me 3 attempts to get the passenger side cams (when looking at the engine from the front) lined up, then belt on (the timing marks for them are such that the cams are under load when correctly timed - drivers side cams are unloaded when timed). Almost like I needed 3 hands.

Don't be afraid to ask for help! I'm sure one of the other members on here in Wellington would happily give you a hand!

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Individualities said:

 

A cool head is needed for a Subaru cambelt - especially a DOHC one. There's a lot going on, and lining everything up can be a bit of a challenge. Took me 3 attempts to get the passenger side cams (when looking at the engine from the front) lined up, then belt on (the timing marks for them are such that the cams are under load when correctly timed - drivers side cams are unloaded when timed). Almost like I needed 3 hands.

Don't be afraid to ask for help! I'm sure one of the other members on here in Wellington would happily give you a hand!

:D Thank you! 3 hands might make it easier yes.... Anyone know an alien? :P

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Avcs camwheels can be a right pain in the arse to remove without the proper cam pulley holder tool. And they are now allen key camwheel bolts. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

On 1/9/2019 at 11:54 PM, Ninja8) said:

Avcs camwheels can be a right pain in the arse to remove without the proper cam pulley holder tool. And they are now allen key camwheel bolts. 

 

I found removing my cam pulleys to be no problem with a power bar and a set of 3/8 allen sockets.

Keeping the belt on while cracking them loose them is needed, unless you have an impact gun that can fit in the tight space.

IIRC the torque for the cam pulleys is 98Nm? The crank pulley is over 200Nm, or f***ing tight in my mind lol. I didn't over tighten it though - just felt it up from when I un-did it.

Edited by Individualities

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Individualities said:

 

I found removing my cam pulleys to be no problem with a power bar and a set of 3/8 allen sockets.

Keeping the belt on while cracking them loose them is needed, unless you have an impact gun that can fit in the tight space.

IIRC the torque for the cam pulleys is 98Nm? The crank pulley is over 200Nm, or f***ing tight in my mind lol. I didn't over tighten it though - just felt it up from when I un-did it.

 

Good tip thanks! Got my trusty breaker bar and torque wrench 2 in 1 :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd probably advise not using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, keep the 2 separate. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Zeus said:

I'd probably advise not using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, keep the 2 separate. 

Its made as both :P one side is the breaker head and the other side has the torque head

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0