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RepNZ

Legacy BP5 Subtech Downpipe Rubbing Steering Column

17 posts in this topic

Reading the reviews, Subtech seems to be good guys but had a really bad experience with the downpipe, forcing me to remove the pipe twice before installation and will have to remove it again but its a long story so I won't go there.

 

So I've installed the downpipe yesterday but was feeling something odd when steering left (a vibration and a light scraping noise). Lifted the car up straight away and the steering column was definitely rubbing the downpipe evident by a tiny mark. So tried to loosen all the bolts just in case there was a bit of move left and tightened it again with the downpipe pushed as far away from the steering column. At the worst angle, there was about 5mm gap so I thought this would do the trick.

 

Sadly this is still happening and while its a huge scrape, this definitely will have safety implications on hard cornering at fast speeds. The easiest solution online was to remove the pipe again (which will be my third time removing it) and hammer it down after heating it up.

 

This would be my resolution and I was wondering if anyone had a similar experience (with any kinds of downpipe) and found an easier solution for it?

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I had the same problem with my up pipe and a twisted turbo setup... there isn't much room down there and if you are using

v-bands, getting the exactly correct position can be tricky. Ultimately my problem was caused by the headers warping constantly

and changing the location that the up pipe sat in.

Edited by Loren

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You got any pics?

 

Shouldn't need to take the heat and reshape route with a stock location turbo downpipe though. Suppose you're not close enough to them to take it back and tell them to sort it?

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3 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

You got any pics?

 

Shouldn't need to take the heat and reshape route with a stock location turbo downpipe though. Suppose you're not close enough to them to take it back and tell them to sort it?

Sorry forgot to take any photos.

 

The only issue is time when you've 9-5 job and trying to sort out a time for a hoist and a hand at mates when his shop's always busy.

 

I don't doubt that they'll replace it for sure (I probably don't want to since it has been used for a day or two now and coating has melted/worn) but labour taken to put on and back is the issue and I doubt they'd replace it on the spot. Would've been easier to just pay Subtech to install it as it didn't cost a lot and all the trips back and forth to their workshop and they'd sort any of these issues out :(

 

I'm going to call them on Monday and see what they say and if I have to take the whole thing off either way, may as well just bang it with a hammer to get clearance if no easier options are avail.

 

 

 

 

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We have had 2 downpipes do exactly same issue and now modify them before fitting

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And then some muppets tell me they'd rather get a brand new Subtech for the price of my (now sold) HKS pipe :D 

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@sobanoodle BuT NZDM yO!

 

I still rate my DIY option really, 40 odd dollars for a flange, some steel tube off cuts and a few spare hours and it probably performs just as well as an overpriced Subtech pipe

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1 hour ago, sobanoodle said:

And then some muppets tell me they'd rather get a brand new Subtech for the price of my (now sold) HKS pipe :D 

 

I'm hoping this is just QA issue on their products and performance wise, as expected, is much quicker. But it sucks having to take off the pipe twice (and potential third time due to the issue), each time taking 2-3 hours due to a bolt on the turbo being stuck. It'll be 9 hours of labour now instead of 2-3.

 

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2 hours ago, gotasuby said:

We have had 2 downpipes do exactly same issue and now modify them before fitting

Were they Subtech ones? What did you do to make them fit properly?

 

Did you put them on first and then find out?

Edited by RepNZ

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14 hours ago, RepNZ said:

Sorry forgot to take any photos.

 

The only issue is time when you've 9-5 job and trying to sort out a time for a hoist and a hand at mates when his shop's always busy.

 

I don't doubt that they'll replace it for sure (I probably don't want to since it has been used for a day or two now and coating has melted/worn) but labour taken to put on and back is the issue and I doubt they'd replace it on the spot. Would've been easier to just pay Subtech to install it as it didn't cost a lot and all the trips back and forth to their workshop and they'd sort any of these issues out :(

 

I'm going to call them on Monday and see what they say and if I have to take the whole thing off either way, may as well just bang it with a hammer to get clearance if no easier options are avail.

 

 

 

 

Give Gareth a call and explain what’s going on.They are a good workshop and stand by there work.I had a solid center clutch plate installed by them and didn’t like it and they replaced it,no charge.

13 hours ago, sobanoodle said:

And then some muppets tell me they'd rather get a brand new Subtech for the price of my (now sold) HKS pipe :D 

Was that the twin scroll down pipe on Tm with the cat.

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22 minutes ago, Dre said:

Was that the twin scroll down pipe on Tm with the cat.

 

Facelift twin cat HKS. 

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13 hours ago, RepNZ said:

Were they Subtech ones? What did you do to make them fit properly?

 

Did you put them on first and then find out?

Yes first one out on and then modified. Yes subtech ones. We cut out rubbing section and fitted a cutout of a 3" bit of tube to clear knuckle being fitted inverted. 

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Called up Subtech on Monday and they were happy to look at it and have it modified at the exhaust shop (at no cost), but told them I'd be happy with just it hammered down a bit.

Took it in today and had it fixed which seems fine for now although there was a knock on left sharp turn on acceleration but I didn't feel this through the steering column so I'm thinking it's not the downpipe.

 

Really happy with their service :)

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Aren't these legacys common for front CV's? although you'd think you could feel it.

Apparently you can take them out and swap the sides

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Worn Bilstein shocks can also make a knocking noise.Also the front Bilstein shock bottom spring seat has a rubber pad which can wear and cause knocking when on full steering lock.

Edited by Dre

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Posted (edited)

On 2/28/2019 at 6:41 PM, Dre said:

Worn Bilstein shocks can also make a knocking noise.Also the front Bilstein shock bottom spring seat has a rubber pad which can wear and cause knocking when on full steering lock.

Had Bilsteins driver side shot and made a horrible knocking noise, replaced with BC Golds and had it certed (Hyper was a pain although was the cheapest in terms of cost - not time-wise)

 

On 2/27/2019 at 3:05 PM, pl0x said:

Aren't these legacys common for front CV's? although you'd think you could feel it.

Apparently you can take them out and swap the sides

Seems to be okay now but coincidentally I did watch Mightycarmods last night where all 4 CVs snapped at once from dumping clutch (had turboed H6 from what I recall).

Edited by RepNZ

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If you lower your car excessively it can place additional strain on the inner cv’s.I’ve seen some front axles on a Legacy bp made for this purpose.I’m sure Supergramps blew one side only.

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