EJ257 Block to EJ20 heads

[Guest]

Hey

I've tried searching and got no where so forgive me if this has been answered befor.

I blew a big end bearing on Saturday on my Ver 4 STi. Im hoping my heads will still be alright as I got it off the track as fast as and didnt start it again. It is currently at my mechanics who is gonna start work on monday depending on what I want to do. Im imagining that there may be big problems in the block. Big end bearing repairs look very expensive (on trademe for $3900) I've found a 2.5 STi block on trademe all brand new for $2800. If I take this block http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-240978870.htm mix it with this kit (only in the 2.5 wrx form) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-240851427.htm and put my heads back on (if they're not damaged) and put it all back together will this work? or do I need 2.5 heads? Also I hear these blocks are semi closed and supposed to be significantly stronger than the block that was in there originally is this true?

Im curious because I dont want my mechanic to take the time to pull my engine apart and tell me what the problems in the block are if I'm just going to buy a new block anyway.

[Guest]

OR would this be a better choice? It would be a much cheeper option I just dont want this to all happen again soon as and I've heard the open deck's are more prone to beb problems.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-241557393.htm

[Koom]

The EJ257 bottom end with V3/4 heads has proven to make really good power in the past. The V5/6 STI heads are better suited but the V3 ones do work. Not 100% sure if there's any little tricks/mods needed to make them fit though and you're not going to get the best out of it unless you get a tunable ECU fitted and tuned properly.

[subout]

I amcurrently taking this route with AVCS heads. $$$$$ do start to add up very quickly. Ecu/tune is mega $$ Either rebuild or grab one of the PBMS forged blocks if you dontwant it to break again.

[pl0x]

Id go for the sti block, Could drop it in yourself & would only be the one off cost of $2000.

But you would want to find the cause of the BEB or could happen again.

[Guest]

Yeah my engine I've got in there now has a brand new Mass Air flow sensor that was only put in a couple of months ago and I think I'll get a brand new fuel pump. If I give it a service with good quality oil and keep it serviced there's no reason I should be getting another beb problem any time soon. From what I've read those all seem to be the main reasons for beb failure. The cars got new clutch, brakes, MAF sensor, Gear synchro's, and that engine has had a rebuild so hopefully its got all new bearings water pump gaskets etc and so eventually there won't be much left on the car to go wrong!

[Munkvy]

What corner at Manfield did it go on? Was it the Esses or Dunlop?

I take it you dont currently have a baffled sump either? As that will be a very important upgrade if you are planning on going back to the track... Kinda needed at Manfield really, as theres a couple of high G corners that cause trouble for alot of engines.

[Guest]

IMO all the above could be a factor in the beb going or just wear and tear over time.

It will work but you will suffer from backpressure issues if you start the quest for more power.

As above later heads work better.

[Stoffa]

make sure you check compression ratios out properly if your going to be mixing and matching heads with different blocks.