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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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Perfect day for working on the car and with a few hours free until our grandson is dropped off for the afternoon, time to get cracking with some much needed upgrades.....
Safety first. After placing securely on a pair of stands, the wheels come off...
20170204_122419_zpsvo7pacu8.jpg
 
The 2 x 19mm bolts securing the caliper to the hub and loosened off...
20170204_122604_zpsijmkmyze.jpg
 
Next step is to remove the pain retaining pins.
20170204_123020_zpsjznvbwj2.jpg
 
These have two small spring clips keeping them in place. Simply pull out with some needle nose pliers and slide out the pins.
20170204_123245_zpsvlvonqze.jpg
 
A small G clamp is used to squeeze the pads to push the pistons back into the calipers...
20170204_123400_zpsme4ligj6.jpg
 
The pads  are then simply slid out from the caliper with their backing plates (take note of how the plates are positioned for refitting)...
20170204_123440_zpso6why0ie.jpg
 
With the pads out, the calipers can now be removed. I used a small bunjee cord to hang the caliper from the coil spring to prevent damage to the brake hose...
20170204_123458_zpsg8gyounw.jpg
 
The rotor is then removed from the hub. If it's stuck on due to corrosion, etc, use a small bolt as in the below pic to help 'push' the rotor off the hub. I simply used the bolt which holds the brake hose bracket to tyhe strut as it's the same thread...
20170204_123832_zpspdot8ilu.jpg
 
First part complete...
20170204_124301_zpsutruboie.jpg
 
Protective film applied in the factory is removed from the new rotor using brake cleaner. Just be careful not to get any on the paint!
20170204_124408_zps3jvynd4o.jpg
 
The replacement rotor slides straight onto the hub and the caliper is bolted back into place.
I'm using Dixcel ES pads from Japan. I have no experience with them, but have read good reviews so happy to give them a try. They are essebntially a fast street pad - perfect for me as I'm not intending on any track use. Only thing of note at this stage is the lack of a pad wear indicator. The Brembo pads have a mechanical indicator which squeals when the pads gets below a certain thickness. Will need to keep a close eye on these when they start to wear down. Instructions say 300+ km bedding in period of 'normal' road driving. So will need to drive like a nanna for a couple of weeks O.o
 
Fitment of the pads is the reverse of removal essentially. I used some copper grease on the backing plates to help prevent any squealing...
20170204_130921_zpsdnthq0ov.jpg
 
20170204_130927_zpswvp7eelu.jpg
 
dba paint 3 strips on their rotors. These are temperature indicators and change to when a certain temp is reached -
Red - changes to white above 610°C
Orange - changes to yellow above 560°C
Green - changes to white above 430°C
 
And completed...
20170204_134548_zpsbif1babo.jpg
 
I also did the rears, but was pushed for time so didn't take some many pics. 17mm caliper bolts at the rear - pads use the same retaining pin set up. As my car is relatively new, I had no issues removing the rotors but you may need to adjust the handbrake shoes on higher mileage cars probably?
 
20170204_151126_zpsewi6f0en.jpg
 
20170204_151415_zpsdpodxnyv.jpg
 
20170204_152805_001_zpsgeh1pqgi.jpg
 
20170204_160817_zpsjqdforfo.jpg
 
Will be a couple of weeks at least before I can report back on how they are going. By then, I should also have some braided lines fitted and some Motul 660 fluid to replace the stock stuff.
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DBA, Dixcel, Motul 660, that's some good stuff you picked !

Will pick the same things when I will need to except that I will try the Project Mu brake pads instead of Dixcel, heard really good reviews for these on the Toyota 86 / Subaru BRZ.

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Just got back from a 2 day trip to Mosgiel in the Outback. 847km and was such a nice drive except found out the aircon really needs to be regarded.  Not great when it's about 30 degrees out side. 

Drove to Oamaru yesterday and stayed the night, today we drove to Mosgiel and got the RA original seats and ecu from @Technikhaus . Then headed home to Christchurch. About 300ks yesterday and nearly 550 today. Glad to be home though.

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On 2/4/2017 at 5:47 PM, G B said:
Instructions say 300+ km bedding in period of 'normal' road driving. So will need to drive like a nanna for a couple of weeks O.o

Most pads can be either bed in gently (as above) or buy getting them nice and hot.
Instructions usually opt for the former as it removes liability from people's driving.

 

My TRW pads had instructions to drive gently for first x km as the pads have sub-par performance due to the coating that is applied from factory.
However, I just got them nice and hot and smoking xD

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I do a few 60-5kph heavy stops, with a little time between each to cool down. Gets them pretty hot and smelly, but yet to have a set that havent bedded in well. Doing a couple of these is also good for stopping the Brembos squealing. It was a tech at work that advised i use this technique, as its what they use on all the brakes they do.

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Blew the SRX's radiator and nanna'd it home without cooking the engine. Replaced it with an oem part from Redline. Sweeeeed asss!

Removed the massively loud exhaust from the Type R (keeping the down pipe) and replaced with factory STI exhaust from downpipe backwards. Holy moly it is quiet! Now I can hear every other bloody noise it makes. 

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15 hours ago, SpeedySub said:

Last night I cleaned the original front and rear seats of the Legacy. Today I removed the existing seats and put the originals back in. Total weight reduction from existing to original was 21kgs! 

 

Yeah those ones in it weren't light were they :S

 

 

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So, my last week has been absolutely mental. 

 

Started Monday, with lots of work done over a full day to get the fuel system done on the RA. 

 

Basically, Monday - Tuesday I took out the old fuel tank and replaced with the newer Version 10 STi tank. Which, yes, it fits. and Version 5 onwards I can confirm even though v5-6 STi have a 5 wire plug, they work perfectly with the GDB 4-plug pump hanger and fuel readers. So this has solved my fuel surge issues entirely that plagues the GC8's.

 

After this was done, car was taken to Ajay aka @Subirex Automotive on Tuesday night and Wednesday I was there from about 11am onwards, ripped out the intake manifold, stripped of the old fuel rails, and then stripped engine bay of the old lines.

 

This was all replaced by Teflon braided black lines and AN fittings. Christ they're expensive, but so so worth. 

 

Used is the following: 

Teflon braided black lines

Many AN fittings from EARLS I believe

EARLS Fuel pressure Gauge

Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Reg in Black

Aeromotive e85 compliant fuel filter

Aeroflow top feed fuel rail conversion kit which didn't fit so had to make brackets from Stainless

Bosch (real ones) 1000cc top feed injectors

Link e85 Flex Fuel Sensor

 

After one hell of a mission by Ajay and I (mostly Ajay, not gonna lie), we finished at 7am... YES ALL NIGHT... and I then trailered the car down to D-Tech Thursday morning for the car to have the Storm G4+ wired in because unfortunately things just didn't pan out there up in auckland.

 

I was totally resigned to the fact I was not getting my car back until at least monday but @Tony at D-Tech and their team managed to pull a rabbit out of the hat and got it all running and done by Friday that next day! Absolute champions and I cannot recommend and praise them more.

 

So all done and dusted, I ran out of money so only got the 98 Tune done, however I made a very happy 192kw and 348nm at the wheels on a suuuper hot day with my poultry version 5 STi intercooler.

 

Next plans are to get possibly a larger turbo (thinking GTX3076R) and front mount then get er dooooone on e85 :D This won't be happening for some time as I've got some loose ends to tie up but for now... That's the end of my build :D

 

 

Edited by Dairusire
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5 hours ago, Dairusire said:

So, my last week has been absolutely mental. 

 

Started Monday, with lots of work done over a full day to get the fuel system done on the RA. 

 

Basically, Monday - Tuesday I took out the old fuel tank and replaced with the newer Version 10 STi tank. Which, yes, it fits. and Version 5 onwards I can confirm even though v5-6 STi have a 5 wire plug, they work perfectly with the GDB 4-plug pump hanger and fuel readers. So this has solved my fuel surge issues entirely that plagues the GC8's.

 

After this was done, car was taken to Ajay aka @Subirex Automotive on Tuesday night and Wednesday I was there from about 11am onwards, ripped out the intake manifold, stripped of the old fuel rails, and then stripped engine bay of the old lines.

 

This was all replaced by Teflon braided black lines and AN fittings. Christ they're expensive, but so so worth. 

 

Used is the following: 

Teflon braided black lines

Many AN fittings from EARLS I believe

EARLS Fuel pressure Gauge

Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Reg in Black

Aeromotive e85 compliant fuel filter

Aeroflow top feed fuel rail conversion kit which didn't fit so had to make brackets from Stainless

Bosch (real ones) 1000cc top feed injectors

Link e85 Flex Fuel Sensor

 

After one hell of a mission by Ajay and I (mostly Ajay, not gonna lie), we finished at 7am... YES ALL NIGHT... and I then trailered the car down to D-Tech Thursday morning for the car to have the Storm G4+ wired in because unfortunately things just didn't pan out there up in auckland.

 

I was totally resigned to the fact I was not getting my car back until at least monday but @Tony at D-Tech and their team managed to pull a rabbit out of the hat and got it all running and done by Friday that next day! Absolute champions and I cannot recommend and praise them more.

 

So all done and dusted, I ran out of money so only got the 98 Tune done, however I made a very happy 192kw and 348nm at the wheels on a suuuper hot day with my poultry version 5 STi intercooler.

 

Next plans are to get possibly a larger turbo (thinking GTX3076R) and front mount then get er dooooone on e85 :D This won't be happening for some time as I've got some loose ends to tie up but for now... That's the end of my build :D

 

 

Where the are all the pics? Any pics of the fuel tanks?

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10 hours ago, GC8E2DD said:

So that is 192 with 1000cc injectors, AVCS, and a VF36? Could we see what it looks like?

 

it's 192 with 1000cc injectors which use about 54% at WOT and 6k RPM, there's no AVCS max torque is at around 4000rpm and yes VF36. Will get a photo of the dyno plot tomorrow for you :)

4 hours ago, ADIKT said:

Where the are all the pics? Any pics of the fuel tanks?

 

haha sorry boss, I didn't take any pictures of the fuel tanks or really anything. Things were simply too busy and full focused to just get it all done on time that taking photos wasn't even on my radar.

 

What I can say however, is that GDB fuel tanks (the actual structure) are exactly the same. Only differences are newer pumps and hanger styles. So if you're not wanting to change tanks, you will get away with just swapping a GDB fuel pump hanger over into the GC8 tank and that will solve most of you're surge issues.

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