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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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Yea dyno inconsistancy is definately a real thing but is still more accurate than chucking a random percentage at a wheel figure and saying thats what the crank makes, then you open up the argument of whether it should be a percentage or a set power loss which would stay the same at higher power levels.
 
I’d be mildly concerned that this model needs to exist though. Same part number as the one you’re getting but with an A slapped on the end.
I know they had steering knuckle clearance issues with US designed Invidia (plus others) DP’s on RHD 4th gen Legacy’s so might find a similar issue with this one unless you’ve done the research and found some other RHD ones running the one you’re getting.
http://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/catless-down-pipe-australian-spec-wrx-sti-08-14.html


Always thought that might be an issue, if that’s the case I’ll get the downpipe modified, just didn’t wanna have my car off the road otherwise I would’ve had a custom one made


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Just now, Munkvy said:

What does any of it matter? It's all just numbers. Times at a track of drag strip are a better reference.

 

But what makes you smile is the most important given how much cars cost to modify!

 

Buuuttt S*** drivers can have powerful cars that give S*** times...

 

The latter is bang on the money.

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5 hours ago, Conducks said:

Awd the power is split front and rear so they show less at the wheel, idk crank power is a personal preference, there’s the argument all dyno’s read differently too. Some in the states show the 2015 STi stock is 200kw at the wheel but then the one posted in this thread is only 150kw at the wheel


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young dude , you do know it's total power at all the driven wheels, not per wheel.

unless you can cheat physics, all 4wd cars will have more transmission losses.

 

:D

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Where people go wrong is they stipulate a percentage for drivetrain loss say 15% for arguments sake to get crank power. Then they calculate that for a V7 sti with 160wkw and use the same calculation for a V7 sti with 300wkw with exactly the same drivetrain.

 

You do the math...

 

Engine dyno or bust.

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I’d be mildly concerned that this model needs to exist though. Same part number as the one you’re getting but with an A slapped on the end.
I know they had steering knuckle clearance issues with US designed Invidia (plus others) DP’s on RHD 4th gen Legacy’s so might find a similar issue with this one unless you’ve done the research and found some other RHD ones running the one you’re getting.


I just made a post in the Australian 2015+ WRX/STi owners group and got this response. I should’ve checked first - Guess I got lucky. If any other VA chassis owners are curious here’s your answer.

0821c26036725a5a4c2cefad5b8021c9.png



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4 hours ago, Munkvy said:

Yeah its fun beating on powerful cars!

 

You get used to it :D

From my (limited) track experience, the person behind the wheel is far more important than the car.

I passed a few porsche gt3 rs, caterhams or maserati but the drivers were beginners and I've done a few trackdays, nothing to be proud of here. And maybe they just want to be safe and don't want to damage their car.

At the same time, I have friends that have been doing trackdays for years and years and one of them is as fast as me with a slower car (50hp less, less agressive suspension). That makes really fun battles as I really don't want him to pass me with a slower car :P

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1 hour ago, McMatty said:

Cleaned the wagon, removed the twin subs and replaced it with a better single sub, also anyone know what this switch does? Want to use it to switch the sub on and off88739cbcab706e0424a90712ca8df03b.jpg

 

Wiper blade de icer

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Tidied up a few things on the GC8 today. Put the front lip back on. Replaced the clock bulb in the gauge cluster so I can actually see what time it is. Removed the Speedline wheels and swapped the tyres over to the Rays Gramlights. Fitted some hubcentric rings into the Rays wheels and bolted them on the car. I also installed some whiteline LCA rear bushes with the offset position for more caster. I still need to give it an alignment.

 

I also noticed one of the front inner CV boots is beginning to split :| Grrr... I hate CV grease splatter.

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COBB 3 port electronic boost controller solenoid showed up today thanks to [mention=129]philr8[/mention]

 

Downpipe is due Monday/Tuesday next week so will book install and dyno then. Will post results once complete

 

b90b1e8127dbade5f29c95cf3a99b5c0.jpg

 

 

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Finally got the front lip back from the paint shop, not impressed with how they returned it, looks like it didnt get sanded down before paint and theres lots of dirt in the paint but hey, was a cheap paint job and looks good from a distance 66b6a5438bfe8a67f41a552f3e5bde55.jpg

Few places like that aye. If it not an insurance job where they know they have to do it to a decent standard they seem to not worry about smaller cash jobs
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Think i've chased out my annoying clunk. Passenger side endlink was a touch loose. Shortened the threads on the whiteline balljoint endlinks, much easier to get the bastards in and out now. Installed mudflaps, red ones from a company called "rokblokz", 98usd plus about 30 nzd to ship em here (youshop ftw)

 

Nice fitment, they arent the super flexible urethane ones, but they look alright. Quite happy with em!!

 

Taking car for a drive after dinner, got some things to do, good chance for a shakedown.

 

V7 rear control arms are on their way up from coromandel, second ro last piece of the puzzle, just got to sort the bbs rims!! Dropped them off with my tyre guy to get em checked for roundness, pricing up some shreading tyres for flatnats lol

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