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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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4 minutes ago, boon said:

 

What's that, about 6 seconds? Bloody good for a tractor. Doesn't sound too uninspiring either 🤔

 

Haven't had a chance to have any measured runs, factory number is 5.5s. 

From what I've read GPS based meter apps are fairly inaccurate, not surprisingly. Will still give me an idea and a benchmark to compare to especially if I finally decide to do a remap. Just trying to convince myself and justify a price tag of $1k+...

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1 hour ago, Abomb said:

How often are these club sub meets and where are they? I’d bring out my car once the 20g and tune happen.

Depends on region, Auckland has one on the second Wednesday of the month alternating around 3 locations. Where are you based?

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Engine and transmission mounts are in, bolted up the header as well. Didn’t realize in my infinite wisdom that the header was a 3 bolt instead of the factory two bolt so I walked away for today. I’ll pull the turbo out tomorrow and put the uppipe in. Might as well do the inlet and catch can at the same time.

 

 

Also I’ll probably just come up and check out one of the Auckland meets. 

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I got the report back from Link about my ECU.....

 

 

Quote

REPORTED FAULT:

Battery voltages reporting incorrectly, fuel pump stuck on regardless of aux 1 configuration.

FAULT CONFIRMED:

Yes

OUTCOME:

Tested ECU on engine simulator, found ECU not powering up, no current draw. Disassembled ECU and found blown track on 14V input. Reworked track. ECU now powers up. Ran ECU through automated test jig, all hardware testing OK. Tested ECU on engine simulator, all functions operating correctly. The cause of failure is reverse voltage. When the ECU sees reverse voltage (backwards battery or jump pack) the main TVS diode conducts this to ground with the intent of blowing the ECU power fuse. If for whatever reason the fuse doesn’t blow, be it too large or not fused at all. This section of track blows. If the ECU is still powering up after this. This is due to a back feed from hot fed devices on the auxiliary drives back-feeding through the auxiliary fly-back diodes onto the 14V rail. For this particular ECU, a 10A fuse is ample for the ECU supply

 

 

So I did some digging.... It was the fuel pump keeping the ECU Online.... un-freaking-believable.... 

Makes a hell of a lot of sense why the thing was seriously troubled and wouldn't behave under any normal circumstances. 

This ladies and gentlemen is why you should be careful jump starting your car, because I tracked it back to the one event where the jump cables touched for a split second and that's all it took to kill my ECU.

 

EDIT: Also, as an addition, the ECU shouldn't be drawing more than 1-2 amps according to Matt. So even a 5A fuse would be more than suitable. As such I've gone to a 5A.

 

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Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha

 

Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before.

 

Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy biggrin.png

 

 

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Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha
 
Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before.
 
Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy biggrin.png
 
 
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lol congrats you actually did it! Bet it goes faster than any other $500 engine ever


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8 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha

 

Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before.

 

Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy biggrin.png

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Can confirm, she go aite

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A few weeks ago I picked up a BH5 Legacy (first Subaru) for $500 from Gisborne, drove it to Auckland and this last weekend I changed oil, transmission fluid, both filters. Reattched the bonnet rod (the bar that holds the bonnet) (couldn’t remember the actual word) and got some OEM 17s quite cheap.
And a few minuted ago I bought from Subaru Speed a full set of Bilsteins with STI pinks, hoping to do fit it all this week.
Many parts of small rust need to be addressed, will get into it eventually.
ddc18c0b3c9f35aae53d62383733b8a9.jpg


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Went to the Waikato Field Days over the weekend.

Did the normal thing of drooling over tractors that you can't afford, and don't need.

Will say that at the Toyota/Lexus booth, they had a rather nicely spec'ed out LC500. Blue/chesnut interior with cream leather. Such wicked cars! And that Yamaha V8

 

Also spent about $3000 on Milwaukee tools. Will post the haul once it all arrives.

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Drove it after 5 days off overseas driving some mitsi asx over couple thousand kms... oh boy this thing feels zippy even in eco mode compared to that rubbish fake suv car when I put it in sports # I got an amazing feeling that reminded me why I love the car so much




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Heh, I rate the hell out of my old man's ASX. Assume you didn't have the 2.3L common rail turbo diesel? More torque than a WRX, it hauls arse off the line. Gobs of power for a small vehicle.

Nah some kind of fwd 2L non turbo petrol version . It handled off road areas very badly (bouncy as hell) , had bugger all torque , a steering wheel you could drive with your pinky (way too much assistance), overly assorted brakes, nothing happens for ages after flooring the accelerator pedal and not that great boot space for a big vehicle (my hatch has more!).. just an all around bad car lol. Actually rented the i30 but this was the ‘free upgrade’ because that was not available when we arrived . Oh also was lead to believe for ages the fuel economy was amazing because it was on half bar until 500km, then suddenly when to E at 550km lol. Bit overly critical here but that thing was just an awful experience unable and I’m really glad to be back in my car


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11 minutes ago, Batbaruman said:


Nah some kind of fwd 2L non turbo petrol version . It handled off road areas very badly (bouncy as hell) , had bugger all torque , a steering wheel you could drive with your pinky (way too much assistance), overly assorted brakes, nothing happens for ages after flooring the accelerator pedal and not that great boot space for a big vehicle (my hatch has more!).. just an all around bad car lol. Actually rented the i30 but this was the ‘free upgrade’ because that was not available when we arrived . Oh also was lead to believe for ages the fuel economy was amazing because it was on half bar until 500km, then suddenly when to E at 550km lol. Bit overly critical here but that thing was just an awful experience unable and I’m really glad to be back in my car


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:o I have the Outlander as my daily and love it, best SUV i have ever driven. I am the opposite with the WRX I get out of it and into the Outlander and am like god that wrx is a bouncy noisy gas guzzling heap of crap xD BUT obviously its more fun hahaha. hope you had a good trip bro!

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You got conned in the ol switch and bait tactic of bloody rental cars. They call it an upgrade but reality is it’s not and they likely charge less for that vehicle. Had it happen to me twice. Second time I wasn’t as forgiving and then I actually did get a free upgrade.


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I'll always go for the manual rental car...

That way if the "upgrade" is into a car that's not (probably a CVT), you can bargin your way up.

 

I will say that modern cars with electronic power steering are over assisted. I liked how light the steering was in my 02 Legacy - not too light, but not so heavy you needed some sort of effort. It was very Goldilocks :P like. Will admit the steering in my Mazda ain't bad for what it is though - more expensive cars do it better, but Mazda are the pick of the bunch for the mid-tier Japanese cars in my opinion.

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What does everyone see for vacuum at idle? After the header and engine mounts I’m thinking I have a vacuum leak somewhere but it could also just be from the modifications. Warm idle used to sit around -17/-18@600rpm, now I’m seeing -15-17@600rpm.

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8 minutes ago, Abomb said:

What does everyone see for vacuum at idle? After the header and engine mounts I’m thinking I have a vacuum leak somewhere but it could also just be from the modifications. Warm idle used to sit around -17/-18@600rpm, now I’m seeing -15-17@600rpm.

-20

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