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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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7 hours ago, Gripless said:

Covered pedals in industrial grip tape. No more foot slipping when the pedals are wet. 
it’s clear so not changed the look. 
 

originally I was going to find red and green tape and colour code the pedals but that was way too much wasted tape as it only comes in sheets. 

 

colour coded so you know which pedal is which ?

 

😂

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I've spent the last few weeks fine tuning the sway bar vs coilover settings, I've even gone so far as to play around with the tyre pressures based on the wear I was starting to see

 

I've finally found the sweet spot with the coilovers, sway bars and tyre pressures. (i think).

 

Front:

Sway Bar: 22.5mm Coilover Damping: Medium/soft,  Tyres: 40 PSI

 

Rear:

Sway Bar: 22mm, Damping: Firm/medium, Tyres: 38PSI

 

 

I still have one last gripe, its that it feels like my front tyres are trying to roll under the rim on flat or off camber corners (basically any corners which don't promote grip).

 

Could it be that I need to lower the car more? I had initially set the ride height lower but after a lot of online research I found that its better for these cars to sit at stock ride height or in my case a 10-20mm drop  (basically the stock ride height of an STI is ideal). BUT I have the Whiteline roll centre kit so would I need to lower my car more to offset the raise of roll centre in the front? (I had't fine tuned everything when I first lowered the car so i'm not sure how it would compare).

 

The only other thing I can think of is the 225/40 tyres on my 9.5" wide 18" wheels, I am looking at 255/35 or 265/35 tyres soon.

 

I should also have STI front lower control arms and an ALK for them coming soon.

 

 

Anyway, thoughts? leave ride height alone or lower it a tad more or wait until I have proper size tyres on?

Edited by Omsin
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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:

What's the front camber like? That rolling tyre feeling is often due to not enough camber so when turning all the weight is pushing on the outer edge rather than flat across the whole trye

 Pretty flat looking at the car, I've had a few wheel alignments over the last few months and I've gone over it a few times regarding a more sport oriented setup - apparently the alignment is to factory spec and "any changes are just going to chew through tyres" - that was when I was asking if they could zero the front toe as opposed to them being slightly positive to compensate for the wheels wanting to push backwards at speed.

 

Does make sense now thinking about the camber, the tyres are wearing faster on the outside edges.

 

What's a good number for front camber? I don't want to lose too much straight line stability @Andy_Mac

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Uhhh 225s on a 9.5" rim, why are we are looking at anything other than your incorrect tyre fitment? The contact patch is herp derping about because your sidewalls are probably at about 45 degrees. Get tyres that actually fit on your rim. Your current combination isn't even legal (https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf)

 

Jesus, going loop-de-loop on handling mods while running a frankly stupid tyre setup, what's the point?

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1 minute ago, Gripless said:

With wider tyres they will roll under more. 
 

the white line kits needs a 40mm drop to work well I’m pretty sure I’ll remove mine at some stage. 

 

Or the sidewalls will actually be straight up and down so the tyre will have some structure rather than slopping about like a jellyfish?

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I'm 100% with boon on this. You're pulling the tyre out of its strengthened form. Just because there's more 'meat' around the tyre, doesn't mean there's going to be more roll. Why do you think race cars actually have a rather larger sidewall.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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I bought the wheels used with the tyres already fitted (off a slammed S-GT lmao), trust me i think stretched tyres look ghetto AF and I'm all about square well fitted wheels 😁

 I understand physics, although i can't explain it - i know flex is good on a tyre (not to say you should get the softest tyre you can find, its within reason)

 

 

Edited by Omsin
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13 hours ago, Omsin said:

The only other thing I can think of is the 225/40 tyres on my 9.5" wide 18" wheels, I am looking at 255/35 or 265/35 tyres soon.

 

225 on a 9.5" rim yeah that ain't ideal

 

You'd get better road handling out of a 18x8 or 18x8.5 wheel if you're chasing ultimate cornering, 9.5 is unnecessarily wide, even better would be 17x8 as that'll fit over stock wrx brakes, reduce a heap of weight + lower the gearing. Obviously won't look as sicKo though.

 

 

Edited by YoungOne
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The best setup I’ve had the pleasure of owning was 17x8 and 17x9 on my old R34 Skyline, fitment with a large sidewall never looked perfect but it gripped and went over bumps well. All I did with suspension was a set of Tein springs on stock struts too.

 

19x9.5 and 10.5 on my 350Z was surprisingly good but I think that’s down to the design of the body and rwd. The WRX is a long and fairly soft chassis design which awkwardly rolls it weight around in stock form.

 

but yeah, like I said I got these wheels second hand so I didn’t get to choose ideal specs (also not much choice for second hand 5x100 wheels).

 

Looking at Re003 Potenzas in the correct size

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18x9.5 is fine this chassis. A bit too wide for drag maybe but certainly good for track. With the Michelin ps4 range, its pretty hard to make the car slide lol. So much grip its insane. Very confidence inspiring!

Ps, i do have a set for sale 😉

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sooooo bought another project car for a heck of a deal. She's been a very tidy car in the past (if you know the previous owner). But now needs some serious TLC. She'll serve me well while the 450kw build happens :)

 

eCdS2Ti.jpg

m6h3yZt.jpg

 

Not sure about the wing haha. Might swap it for a standard one. They are worth a bit of coin though! 

 

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Fit a new fuel filter today in the BE5, since I snapped the pump carrier last night and just got a new one . Seems to have helped with the fuel pressure a little bit. However when I took it around the block to see if it will boost it started cutting, then there was a small bang. Got home and as I pulled in the driveway there was a slight ticking sound. Looked underneath and theres oil on the up pipe. Up pipe has also snapped but with how much oil was flowing. Looks like new motor time fml

Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk

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Just ordered this for the Outback.

xforce-legacy-3-369-r209x.jpg?i=pU19kiSx

Already have Apexi mufflers with an offset design, so will be able to switch between the X-Force ones to get the sound I want/like. 

The Apexi ones sound nice but missing something due to existing OEM resonator.

Should be delivered for weekend fitment.

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On 25/11/2019 at 8:55 PM, Niran said:

 

Not sure about the wing haha. Might swap it for a standard one. They are worth a bit of coin though! 

 

My little cousin used to own this. Have driven it and its a bundle of fun. He is also the one to blame for the wing..sorry 😁. its not my cup of tea but he put a lot of effort into getting it fitting etc.  

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18 minutes ago, Niran said:

@A_J_T oh wow - did your cousin own this car before?  I need to figure out how to remove it haha. Hoping its not glued on as well as bolts.

Yea he bought it in early 2018, fixed a number of issues that it had when he bought it, thoroughly enjoyed the car and then sold it later that year iirc and picked up a Hilux as it was not a good daily 😂 Unsure on owners inbetween him and you though. I'll ask him how he attached it and find out if its easy enough to remove 

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