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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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13 hours ago, Gripless said:

Well gearbox rebuilt and setup correctly.

holly s*** what a difference.


Now no gear shifter slop as it had previously even with all rubber bushings replaced.

no whine on lift off either


Was anything properly damaged or just typical age related wear?

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Swapped the broken centre console sliding cover with aliexpress one.

 

the aliexpress one doesn’t have a silver inset on the handle and isn’t rubbery soft touch like the OEM one. Which went off goes sticky.

 

it’s an better match with the rest of the console plastic and looks nicer than the OEM one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Purchased a set of the optional STI BBS forged wheels to remedy one of the few I don’t like about the car. Also a bonus is less unsprung weight (apparently they are around 3kg lighter/wheel). 

 

**Images from the internet 

Will go from 

image.thumb.jpeg.c6dac31385cb1f02d381d1dcd4166ea4.jpeg

 

To

image.thumb.jpeg.f21df6b642438022f46954d377cbb0ce.jpeg

 

 

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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:

@B4 2000 Gonna put spacers on them at all? I've always liked those ones besides the terrible factory offset


Most likely yes!

they are +55 offset which I think with a 15-20mm spacers would look perfect. 
I’m also working on a 6pot front brake setup at the moment and I really hope those wheels will clear. 

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Yes way lighter weight and since forged the spokes are thin so do have better brake clearance than others.

If you space stock wheels the steering gets heavy as the scrub radius increases.


Stock brakes are bigger than the tires can cope with, so bigger brakes won’t do much.

even 20mm wider tires the stock brakes still won’t be the weak point.

 

those wheels also come in the factory gold tint if you can find them.

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20 hours ago, Gripless said:

Yes way lighter weight and since forged the spokes are thin so do have better brake clearance than others.

If you space stock wheels the steering gets heavy as the scrub radius increases.

 

 

With the lighter wheels it should make steering lighter and more responsive anyway.

I weighed a wheel and it's 9Kg which pretty light for an OEM 18x8.5 wheel. Had a mate weigh a 5 spoke wheel and it weighed 12.4Kg (both weighed using a bathroom scale). 

 

20 hours ago, Gripless said:

Stock brakes are bigger than the tires can cope with, so bigger brakes won’t do much.

even 20mm wider tires the stock brakes still won’t be the weak point.

 

Agreed, however, the bigger brakes is probably the only 'form over function' thing I'm doing which will only be noticed by some people and get them to wonder if anything else been done to the car.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/10/2023 at 4:13 PM, McMatty said:

Bought another one, think I'm on my 11th BH/BE

Ayyyy this new one will be number 4 for me, and legacy 5 for me.

3x GTB's (2x Rev D, 1x Rev A)

1x BG9 Grand Wagon

Looking forward to having another Rev D.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Deleted the easier of the two Secondary Air pump combi valves and put the PBMS blanking plate on the back of the head. I had hopes that the exhaust noise that I was hearing on startup was from the easy valve but alas it was not the case and I have to do the right side one before it fails completely. Its only a matter of time with the NRV stuck open. I'll probably leave the other valve in place and just blank the back of the head after I remove the up pipe. I could cut the pipe but I don't know what kind of access I'm going to have with the turbo still in place. 

Edited by Boltonator
plurality
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9 hours ago, Boltonator said:

Deleted the easier of the two Secondary Air pump combi valves and put the PBMS blanking plate on the back of the head. I had hopes that the exhaust noise that I was hearing on startup was from the easy valve but alas it was not the case and I have to do the right side one before it fails completely. Its only a matter of time with the NRV stuck open. I'll probably leave the other valve in place and just blank the back of the head after I remove the up pipe. I could cut the pipe but I don't know what kind of access I'm going to have with the turbo still in place. 


you can leave that stainless pipe in place and just bolt the blank piece onto the pipe flange. It ends up just under the turbo and way easier than ditching the whole thing unless you plan to have the uppipe off anyway. Everything in front of that point can be fully deleted. Remember to keep atleast part of the valve with more pins as it has your atmo sensor in it. Pretty sure from memory it’s that one closer to the turbo

 

fr_3061_zpsljpjmqnq

 

fr_3063_zps2xsdsrhm

 

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So you would pull the manifold before you would pull the up pipe? The pedant in me wants to blank it off closest to the source but the other option would allow me to check my banjo bolt as well. Options options.....

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6 hours ago, Boltonator said:

So you would pull the manifold before you would pull the up pipe? The pedant in me wants to blank it off closest to the source but the other option would allow me to check my banjo bolt as well. Options options.....


yea I just unbolted the mani but left everything attached so it could move a bit to make life easier. I’d definitely do mani before uppipe on one of these cars

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  • 2 weeks later...

Big week for the tinkering.

 

Pulled the manifold today. Got the valve deleted, valve cut out and the pipe blocked. The PBMS plate and the exhaust gasket probably have 1mm overlap at the worst but I think it will hold The only casualties were a turbo inlet that was probably borked anyway and a turbo elbow gasket that broke from my carelessness. Ill inquire about those parts tomorrow, Ill probably just get an acceptible condition used OEM replacement inlet.

 

I have also had poor luck with wheel bearings having had a sound quickly develop in the front, in the last week. Lifted one wheel, noisy spin, replaced hub. Test drive, sound persists but its just quiet enough with one new bearing to hear the other one get louder and sharper pitched in the turns you'd expect. Ill have to replace it tomorrow, its disassembled already. Im YOLOing it and going aftermarket with GSP ones from BNT for now more because I can walk in and buy them. Thank god I have a Corolla for emergencies.

 

The big goal is to have it back together to cruise somewhere with Mrs Boltonator for Valentines day.

 

Edited by Boltonator
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  • 3 weeks later...

Haha updating the last post to say that after two and a half weeks of being down I got my car sorted last night.

 

I decided to order an aftermarket turbo inlet from Pro Speed Racing in Australia. I also picked up the turbo elbow gasket and bought some intake gaskets too. My old intake gaskets were the ones where they basically glued some silicone rings to some shim-stock, so I got some thick Radium ones.

 

Fitment of the new turbo inlet isn't ideal as I was having a battle getting some sharply milled barb fittings onto some old and stiff vacuum lines (mainly the PCV/breather ones). No one near me had the large PCV hose only the smaller stuff. Its a little crooked at the turbo but its engaged, clamped and not leaking as far as I can tell. 

 

Its nice to have a quiet car again. Those old little Corollas are loud AF at highway speeds. 

 

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