• Announcements

    • 1randomkiwi

      ClubSub Forum Updates   13/03/19

      Important forum upgrades are coming up which may mean the www.ClubSUB.org.nz forums will be temporarily unavailable.   Check out our Official Facebook Page for more updates.   www.facebook.com/ClubSubNZ
  • Current Donation Goals

Guest keltik

What have you done to your car today?

22,123 posts in this topic

10 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Voltage in the line 1cm before connector... 12.8V... 

Voltage at the connector terminal??? 3.3V. 

and obviously with a bunch of resistance all over the place

 

Yea, somethings defs not right there....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Dairusire Have you actually pulled the pins out of the connectors/ pulled heat shrink to see how they’ve wired in the resistor?

 

 

Got sick of thinking about fuel pump controllers and after a yarn with Dave from PF I've grabbed a DTP connector and just wired the B+ and Ground wires to the FP+ and FP- so it runs 100% all the time. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Dairusire said:

 

 

Voltage in the line 1cm before connector... 12.8V... 

Voltage at the connector terminal??? 3.3V. 

and obviously with a bunch of resistance all over the place
Oh kay then. 

 

Can I haz my $40+gst back now? 

Canbus is 3.3v or 5v like most logic circuits isn’t it?

 

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

@Dairusire Have you actually pulled the pins out of the connectors/ pulled heat shrink to see how they’ve wired in the resistor?

 

No I haven't, but I called them and they've stated that there isn't a resistor in the wiring.

 

1 hour ago, Gripless said:

Canbus is 3.3v or 5v like most logic circuits isn’t it?

 

In this example, no. I don't know much about other units, but the Link CAN-Lambda specifically requires 12v as specified in it's wiring diagrams.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

 

No I haven't, but I called them and they've stated that there isn't a resistor in the wiring.

 

Unless the Link is internally terminated it should have one unless the loom is super short and simple.

 

Doesn't explain the volt drop though. Could be they didn't strip one of the wires properly so there isn't a decent connection between the wire and terminal.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

 

Unless the Link is internally terminated it should have one unless the loom is super short and simple.

 

Doesn't explain the volt drop though. Could be they didn't strip one of the wires properly so there isn't a decent connection between the wire and terminal.

 

 

Yeah the loom is at maximum 1.4M accounting for all connections on all sides. 200mm for wiring from Lambda, 1M for the extension loom, and 200MM for the pinout loom into ECU. That's it. 

 

It's about as simple as it gets. I'm going to try slicing open the heat-shrinking tonight and fixing this as I want the car running. 

The voltage drop is my key point of issue, but I'll re-terminate the whole lot if I have to. 

 

EDIT:

 

To also add, I grabbed the link wideband/lambda unit, removed the extension loom from the equation, and plugged it directly into the pinout loom, which makes it a 400mm run. It still wouldn't work or detect. Just if you're curious. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another dumb question, is CAN actually turned on on your ECU? Link has telemetry turned off from factory apparently.

Not sure how it applies for sensor inputs but needs to be on for outputs such as gauges/displays

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Andy_Mac said:

Another dumb question, is CAN actually turned on on your ECU? Link has telemetry turned off from factory apparently.

Not sure how it applies for sensor inputs but needs to be on for outputs such as gauges/displays

 

No such thing as a dumb question! I was hoping user error myself, because user error is far simpler to fix time wise. It is unfortunately/fortunately(???) turned on and all configured correctly as confirmed by Adam at link. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Dairusire said:

 

No such thing as a dumb question! , 

:$ They do exist “does my arse look fat in this?” Not only dumb but it’s a trap too.

Edited by Gripless
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Gripless said:

:$ They do exist “does my arse look fat in this?” Not only dumb but it’s a trap too.

 

itsatrap.jpg

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

12.8V to 3.3V within 1 cm? thats not standard volt drop you dealing with.

 

Its either a bad connection, some kind of resistances wired in (resistor etc) OR, albeit rare, a bad piece of wire - I have only seen it once so far in my life time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just installed a set of Nitto Motivo All-Season tires on it. Will be testing it out tomorrow on a road trip with my friends. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today is the day I got to eat some of my own humble pie. I have as such come here to repent for my sins.

Turns out I was totally off the mark and am a complete oaf when it comes to wiring. Yep you heard it, got it about as wrong as you can get. Simply put I didn't terminate the positive OR negative well enough and that was all. Had nothing to do with the patch loom I bought.

As such, the wideband is working now but the battery is stuffed... Onto the charger it is!

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

5 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Today is the day I got to eat some of my own humble pie. I have as such come here to repent for my sins.

Turns out I was totally off the mark and am a complete oaf when it comes to wiring. Yep you heard it, got it about as wrong as you can get. Simply put I didn't terminate the positive OR negative well enough and that was all. Had nothing to do with the patch loom I bought.

As such, the wideband is working now but the battery is stuffed... Onto the charger it is!

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
 

Haha bugger. We've all made silly mistakes like that before.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New shifter boot is finished and installed. Made from proper hide leather, not vinyl like they do from factory.

Doesn't fit as well as the original, but was a HELL OF A LOT CHEAPER than going for an original Subaru one (at about $450). The one made by the upholsterer was just over $100.

Also painted all my interior lower plastic pieces one colour - Satin Black. Specifically using VHT paint.

So simple process - ColorPak Plastic Adhesion promoter, wait 2 hours - ColourPak Grey Primer Surfacer, 3/4 light/medium coats 10-15 minutes apart, wait 7 hours for it to cure, then sand back with 600 grit sandpaper - VHT Satin Black quick coat enamel (followed instructions on can). Left them all for a week while I was away, for the paint to properly cure 100%, and they look good! Beats the fake wood finish plastic that was there before (someone had replaced the interior in my S401 in it's past, with something else).

Edited by Individualities

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought about it.

So dusty, need to get it serviced so someone else cleans it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Replaced the passenger side coils whilst trying to diagnose an awful cutting issue that happens after a few good pulls:

 

PBZd9TIh.jpg

 

Took it for a post test and so far so good! (I obeyed the speed limits incase you question :P )

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Added a little rear spoiler. Probably won't stay but looks ok I guess. e1b3cebb4af2b13b0a880c06d823dfaf.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bought two brackets that the wise internet assured me I could not buy on their own as just the brackets...

 

47235078961_3a479417e5_b.jpg

 

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Bought two brackets that the wise internet assured me I could not buy on their own as just the brackets...

 

How dare you shatter the illusion of the internet truth :D

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got my new,used Legacy Sti wheels back from Arrow Wheels for track day wheels and purchased a set of new matched Sti blue injectors for my Legacy tgv delete,top feed parallel fuel rail conversion.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got the aircon pump clutch face off and found it’s a circlip so no need to remove pump from car to fit new bearings. Well that’s the hope as it pretty cooked on. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Received a recall campaign letter.  Off the goes to the dealership next week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, sobanoodle said:

Received a recall campaign letter.  Off the goes to the dealership next week.

Oh? What for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now