Guest keltik

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What does everyone see for vacuum at idle? After the header and engine mounts I’m thinking I have a vacuum leak somewhere but it could also just be from the modifications. Warm idle used to sit around -17/-18@600rpm, now I’m seeing -15-17@600rpm.

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8 minutes ago, Abomb said:

What does everyone see for vacuum at idle? After the header and engine mounts I’m thinking I have a vacuum leak somewhere but it could also just be from the modifications. Warm idle used to sit around -17/-18@600rpm, now I’m seeing -15-17@600rpm.

-20

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4 hours ago, Abomb said:

What does everyone see for vacuum at idle?

-18/19

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Sounds like I might have a little leak somewhere then. 

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1 minute ago, Andy_Mac said:

Should really stop listening to @Tony and go back to the semi-budget build 🙄

 

48124601207_ed97b22400_b.jpg

 

 Ha, you did it... good choice! But yeah, I wouldn't listen to me!!!!!!!!

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@Niran A rather expensive cambelt kit.

 

Uses the older and apparently more reliable two piece style tensioner on a billet bracket with additional idler bearing.

Probably not a bad idea for yours once you go the next step further.

 

48124745187_5844c5e37d_b.jpg

 

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This will stop the belt from slapping soo much and wont let it slip tooths yea.

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Ticked off another item from the "must happen" list 

 

Few more things to do then off to a Dyno. 

 

Updates to come. And it'll likely be a big one. 

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More adjusting and tinkering. 

 

Extra heat shielding, securing things a bit better, re arranging and securing the manifold pressure lines, deleting my gfb ebc as it won't be used anymore.

 

In the process of trying to track down a rattle, found a couple of things that might be the cause, moved those and mounted em a bit more securely, more testing tomorrow. Slow and steady gets the job done I guess. 

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Picked up my refreshed v11 sti heads last night and started assembling the long block, got heads on and cams in but left cam shaft seals off the partsouq order list 😑

Hopefully some seals turn up tomorrow so I can put it together on the weekend.

 

Also ordered a 0.82 single scroll turbine housing to test against my twin scroll set up and if my car is having similar issues to Lorens 

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On 24/06/2019 at 12:29 PM, Abomb said:

What does everyone see for vacuum at idle? After the header and engine mounts I’m thinking I have a vacuum leak somewhere but it could also just be from the modifications. Warm idle used to sit around -17/-18@600rpm, now I’m seeing -15-17@600rpm.

Whats It usually cost to get a boost gauge setup? I've never bothered with aftermarket gauges etc before in any of my cars, would be quite handy for checking leaks like you've mentioned

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Posted (edited)

 

3 hours ago, Omsin said:

Whats It usually cost to get a boost gauge setup? I've never bothered with aftermarket gauges etc before in any of my cars, would be quite handy for checking leaks like you've mentioned

 

 

Buy the gauge and a pod and about an hour in your garage or driveway. Boost gauges are super easy. I have a defi boost gauge but my gforce II electronic boost controller also has a boost/vacuum display.

 

hell, if you live in/near Hamilton or drive down from Auckland or where ever I’ll throw it in for you if you aren’t confident in doing it yourself. 

Edited by Abomb

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Booked the car in for an unexciting visit to Winger... On the plus side, it's cheaper than I feared.

 

 


Thanks @Kiwi_Fozze for pointing out my hurdur moment 😜

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24 minutes ago, 1randomkiwi said:

Booked the car in for an unexciting visit to Winger... On the plus side, it's cheaper than I feared.

 

 


Thanks @Kiwi_Fozze for pointing out my hurdur moment 😜

what for??

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11 hours ago, 1randomkiwi said:

Booked the car in for an unexciting visit to Winger... On the plus side, it's cheaper than I feared.

 

 


Thanks @Kiwi_Fozze for pointing out my hurdur moment 😜

I haven’t been there for a long time, any work you do make sure you ask for a quote or they can sting ya for miscellaneous s*** at full price. I got my 100k service done there a few years ago on my GRB STI for $1800 quoted (fair price considering a non branded shop was about $1600), went back another time for a check on something and got charged $30 for a bolt 😂😂😂😂 I didn’t ask but I assumed it was made of gold or something 

19 hours ago, Abomb said:

 

 

 

Buy the gauge and a pod and about an hour in your garage or driveway. Boost gauges are super easy. I have a defi boost gauge but my gforce II electronic boost controller also has a boost/vacuum display.

 

hell, if you live in/near Hamilton or drive down from Auckland or where ever I’ll throw it in for you if you aren’t confident in doing it yourself. 

Sweet, might take you up on that offer. I live in Hamilton so that makes life easy. Just got to prioritise my next list of mods (speedo gauge pod all up is about $5-600 😳)

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Sounds good man, I’m always available to help out another Subabro. We’ve probably seen each other around honestly, Hamilton isn’t that big of a place. 

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A bit late, but on Tuesday/Wednesday had my car in to Crowesport for its free service and install the replacement dash.

Runs so much smoother and the dash looks sooo good.

Can't fault their removal and installation, looks just like factory, no gaps or rattles.

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Posted (edited)

Got the front and rear sway bar kit installed on my car today, chose the stiffest setting on the front and went for the medium setting in the rear. Quick test drive and it definitely feels more solid - even just driving down the gravel driveway over bumps feels more composed. Downside is that it now highlights just how crap the factory struts / springs are, anyone got hook ups for cheap strut / spring combo or used coil overs for a  V11 / GV WRX? 😛 

 

I was tempted to set the rears on full hard but opted for medium, anyone have it set to hard in the rear in the rear ?

 

FYI adjustable end-links are a pain in the ass to install. Set the locking collars 3mm away from the bar mounts as per instructions - would it be better mounting them hard up so there's less room for movement?

Edited by Omsin

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8 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Cut a whacking great hole in the roof. 

 

For, yah know, reasons.

If you need extra head room I think most new Subaru seats have vertical adjustment 😂

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The Legacy threw an ABS/TCS fault.... no codes, wtf. Did some digging around and it is entirely possible that both my brake light bulbs were popped and this somehow caused the lights to come on? Replaced both bulbs, lights gone off, fingers crossed they bloody well stay off.

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1 hour ago, boon said:

The Legacy threw an ABS/TCS fault.... no codes, wtf. Did some digging around and it is entirely possible that both my brake light bulbs were popped and this somehow caused the lights to come on? Replaced both bulbs, lights gone off, fingers crossed they bloody well stay off.

Ive seen this happen on V11 Impreza’s, and even on my old 350z. When the abs etc turns off it can almost be anything electronic related, it throws a warning light to tell you that abs etc is off so that if the electrical fault is actuallly effecting it that you have a warning that something like abs / TC may not work.

 

on my Impreza the throttle control would lock to sport model , TC and hill start assist would turn off - this was because of the secondary air pump.

 

on my 350z it was because of a random misfire.

 

Usually when the problem becomes more persistent the ecu will log a fault code?

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