Guest keltik

What have you done to your car today?

Recommended Posts

On 28/06/2019 at 8:23 PM, Kiwiflyboy said:

what for??

Fixing the heater. Needs a new actuator for the mode controls and its well up under the dash.

 

On 29/06/2019 at 7:29 AM, Omsin said:

I haven’t been there for a long time, any work you do make sure you ask for a quote or they can sting ya for miscellaneous s*** at full price. I got my 100k service done there a few years ago on my GRB STI for $1800 quoted (fair price considering a non branded shop was about $1600), went back another time for a check on something and got charged $30 for a bolt 😂😂😂😂 I didn’t ask but I assumed it was made of gold or something 

 

Yeah got a quote over the phone and asked them to email it to me before I booked it in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oops, I did a thing

 

PzhWlmt.jpg

Xsb8PXE.jpg

xs0rjjF.jpg?1

Ss68Urd.jpg

 

Dont know how to upload photos and this didnt work damnit.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, McMatty said:

Dont know how to upload photos and this didnt work damnit.

 

I use Imgur for my images. You want a link with the file type (e.g: ".jpg") at the end. Then use Insert image from URL, and there ya go!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally replaced cabin filter (had the car 7 years and only done it now for first time 😓) Man, disgusting! Must do this more frequently. Also, took top mount off as having massive boost issue (no boost secondary) problem not solved FML

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 30/06/2019 at 8:44 AM, boon said:

The Legacy threw an ABS/TCS fault.... no codes, wtf. Did some digging around and it is entirely possible that both my brake light bulbs were popped and this somehow caused the lights to come on? Replaced both bulbs, lights gone off, fingers crossed they bloody well stay off.

 

When I bought my sti abs light and warning indicator for the ebrake being pulled were on, even when disengaged. Turned out to be the abs pump/module. Code wouldn’t pop up on a regular code reader, dealers code puller told me what the fault was though. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My ABS pump/computer was f***ed when I bought the car, it bloody well better not be that again. I got a consistent Er55 on the dash and a code when the diag connectors were hooked up with that though. The BP/BL series have much more sophisticated self-diagnostic capability than the ol' GDB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got my long block fully back together and timed last night. Need to merge the avcs wiring into my engine loom and run some wires to the link.

 

FYI for anyone interested - BP/BL dual avcs and V11 dual avcs aren't exactly the same. Few differences I've noted where parts don't cross over:

Driver side exhaust cam sensor bolt hole spacing (bit rough but can drill out the bp/bl sensor so it's slotted)

bp/bl intake cam sensors are 3 wire (link wiring suggests you just join 2 of the wires into sensor ground, assume factory has a ground and a separate sensor ground?)

Newer model heads have secondary air pump ports on the back. (Need to block them with the sensors, blanking plate or tap and put a blank bolt/plug in)

Driver side oil feed lines are supplied from a different point (both heads have both gallery bungs so can just switch them around)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, pl0x said:

Got my long block fully back together and timed last night. Need to merge the avcs wiring into my engine loom and run some wires to the link.

 

FYI for anyone interested - BP/BL dual avcs and V11 dual avcs aren't exactly the same. Few differences I've noted where parts don't cross over:

Driver side exhaust cam sensor bolt hole spacing (bit rough but can drill out the bp/bl sensor so it's slotted)

bp/bl intake cam sensors are 3 wire (link wiring suggests you just join 2 of the wires into sensor ground, assume factory has a ground and a separate sensor ground?)

Newer model heads have secondary air pump ports on the back. (Need to block them with the sensors, blanking plate or tap and put a blank bolt/plug in)

Driver side oil feed lines are supplied from a different point (both heads have both gallery bungs so can just switch them around)

The 3 wire sensors are hall effect and need 12v,gnd and signal

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, gotasuby said:

The 3 wire sensors are hall effect and need 12v,gnd and signal

Cheers! I stripped all the avcs wiring from the factory loom last night and found that, then another link diagram with 12v gnd & sig so bit of contradiction in links wiring manual/diagrams.

I also noted these (intake only) aren't shielded in the factory wiring loom, although link's diagram suggests they should be. I'll assume subaru knew what they were doing and leave them unshielded.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ordered Process West cold Air Intake kit from aussie.

 

Not today but over the last few weeks finally started the assembly process of my V5 STI RA Ltd Restore project. After 2.5yrs the Suspension went in with complete new whiteline bushes through out and new top hats etc....  The Engine bay has been painted in colour and clear coat, and the underneath is completely sprayed in gravel gaurd.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Did you find a way to blank the maf off yet?

Not yet. I may make a plate up if it need to, or just un plug maf and leave it there, but that could look ugly.

 

Ideal solution would be a pipe exactly the same as factory but with no port for maf. I visualize that looking the cleanest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not quite today, but, brake rotors and pads in, just waiting on the handbrake shoes to arrive, then can install them, along with a set of brembo calipers f+r, mca street performance adjustibles to go in at the same time.

 

Also tidied up the install for my roof vent. Turns out the sedans and wagons are a little different in their placement of map lights, the wagons are a little more rearward.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Not quite today, but, brake rotors and pads in, just waiting on the handbrake shoes to arrive, then can install them, along with a set of brembo calipers f+r, mca street performance adjustibles to go in at the same time.

 

Also tidied up the install for my roof vent. Turns out the sedans and wagons are a little different in their placement of map lights, the wagons are a little more rearward.

Did you get some oversized shoes for the rear brembo conversio,  If so where from? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, A_J_T said:

Did you get some oversized shoes for the rear brembo conversio,  If so where from? 

The STi wagon already has the larger rear handbrake shoes. The standard brembo rotors go straight on.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, A_J_T said:

Did you get some oversized shoes for the rear brembo conversio,  If so where from? 

 

5 hours ago, IZichard said:

The STi wagon already has the larger rear handbrake shoes. The standard brembo rotors go straight on.

Correct, the sti wagon has the "v7 sti spec c gravel" brake package, 4pot/2pot r180 with the 190mm brake shoes. 

 

I have, however, been in touch with a brake company that can get hold of "endless" sti handbrake shoes, and reading a couple of reviews I want to give them a go. Really agressive compound, really easily locks the rears even at like 50+kmh. Think hydraulic handbrake level of performance and control, just with the old cable setup. 

 

We'll see how they go 

 

Rest of the brakes consist of dixcel z series f+r pads, dixcel heat treated vented front rotors and vented rear rotors, so it shouldn't have any brake fade issues. 

 

I think I'm going to need to look at my tyre options in order to get the post out of the power and braking ability, while 215s might be fun and relatively cheap, I may have to find a tyre and wheel option that allow a 245 tyre. We'll see.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
On 23/06/2019 at 7:15 PM, 1randomkiwi said:

Finally got around to wiring in a relay so my DRLs turn of when the park lights come on.

 

I'm dumb, and can't be bothered wracking my brain on how to do so myself.

How did you do this?! My plan is to stop power to the ACC switch power some how (with a relay), so they turn off with the park lights

Edited by Individualities

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Decided to order a cabin filter while getting some other stuff during the supercheap auto sale, changed it last night... friendly reminder to go check yours now - it’s probably equally disgusting!!!

Edited by Omsin
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Individualities said:

 

I'm dumb, and can't be bothered wracking my brain on how to do so myself.

How did you do this?! My plan is to stop power to the ACC switch power some how (with a relay), so they turn off with the park lights

Use either a normally-closed or a change-over relay.

 

This should be it for a change over relay:

30  power feed (fused ign, able to suppport the load of the lights)

85  park light positive feed

86  earth

87a  positive output to DRL

87  unused.

 

You may have to swap 87 and 87a, I can’t remember which way the relay rests.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, IZichard said:

Use either a normally-closed or a change-over relay.

 

This should be it for a change over relay:

30  power feed (fused ign, able to suppport the load of the lights)

85  park light positive feed

86  earth

87a  positive output to DRL

87  unused.

 

You may have to swap 87 and 87a, I can’t remember which way the relay rests.

 

Cheers for that. Quick Google myself earlier today yielded that. The articles I found said to use a SPDT Relay - is that the same as a Change-over?

You use 87A - that's what the articles I found said to do.

Definitely tackling this next week - cos then my car is done, till I put the 19"s on it, once my 17"s have worn out!

Edited by Individualities

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/07/2019 at 10:29 AM, A_J_T said:

Did you get some oversized shoes for the rear brembo conversio,  If so where from? 

 

I'd probably get DBA rotors instead.

Those thickened shoes are not cheap at all and could only find them in the UK. Was a few years ago though so might've changed now :)   

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Individualities said:

The articles I found said to use a SPDT Relay - is that the same as a Change-over?

Yes it is

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After noticing some dead spots in the low beam lights on Mum's Outback, I was pretty keen to figure out what the hell was causing it

48216827051_264654ec8e_z.jpg

48216872082_5b69b03e4f_z.jpg

These are the bi-xenon HID projectors on a NZ New 08 Outback. Made a decent pattern on the beam-setter, but couldn't quite understand the patchy output. I pulled the bumper and grille off to remove the lights. Bulbs appeared fine if a little aged. Next, I pulled out the reflector bowl/bulb housing behind the projector lens, and found the reflective chrome had started to peel off the housing. Next step is finding someone who can re-paint these, or if they need vacuum metalizing or what...

48216863637_65f14b17cb_z.jpg

48216818751_c24fdf8681_z.jpg

48216863597_71476ffd35_z.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Changed out the front wheel bearings on the WRX, one side was easy, the other side was a PITA to get off and even back on.

 

gentle love taps with the sledge hammer may have helped but I think it was just luck  in the end 😂

 

If you’re ever in this situation, prop the hub up with a floor jack so that the force isn’t sent straight through into the other components behind it (alignment issues, axle end in the tranny etc)

Edited by Omsin
iPhone s****y auto correct

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.