Guest keltik

What have you done to your car today?

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On 7/07/2019 at 12:00 AM, Individualities said:

 

Cheers for that. Quick Google myself earlier today yielded that. The articles I found said to use a SPDT Relay - is that the same as a Change-over?

You use 87A - that's what the articles I found said to do.

Definitely tackling this next week - cos then my car is done, till I put the 19"s on it, once my 17"s have worn out!

 

Exactly as @IZichard said.
Works a treat and the relays are cheap from Jaycar (SY4070):

SY4070-30a-horn-relay-spdtImageMain-300.

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Posted (edited)

Installed mudflaps / stone guards on the front of the WRX (who cares about stones being flung up behind me 😛 ), also retrofitted LED's in the interior fittings.

 

 

IMG-2725.jpg IMG-2726.jpg IMG-2730.jpg

Edited by Omsin
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Mca "street performance" Coilovers installed, with custom spring rates and their "stealth" option colouring.

 

brembos on, had to drill and helicoil one of the front caliper bolts as it was stripped.

 

Bendix heat treated vented slotted front rotors with z series pads, Bendix slotted vented rears, again with z series pads. Also stuck in some endless handbrake shoes, should make a nice difference.

 

Bled it all out, both sides of the calipers, pedal is still a bit squidgy in the first little bit of travel. Need to re bleed it, but gotta get more fluid first. 

 

Looking forward to getting this beast tuned. Been driving it around for a while on wastegate pressure and break in tune, and it absolutely hauls arse. 

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Set my whiteline sway bars to full stiffness front and back, think it’s the equivalent of 22.5 front and 23mm rear - Handles amazing! Linear oversteer when you start to push it harder through corners (the opposite to how Subaru set these up from factory). Also changed the dark coloured clutch fluid which was actually really easy to do, made almost no difference tho disappointedly 

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11 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Mca "street performance" Coilovers installed, with custom spring rates and their "stealth" option colouring.

 

brembos on, had to drill and helicoil one of the front caliper bolts as it was stripped.

 

Bendix heat treated vented slotted front rotors with z series pads, Bendix slotted vented rears, again with z series pads. Also stuck in some endless handbrake shoes, should make a nice difference.

 

Bled it all out, both sides of the calipers, pedal is still a bit squidgy in the first little bit of travel. Need to re bleed it, but gotta get more fluid first. 

 

Looking forward to getting this beast tuned. Been driving it around for a while on wastegate pressure and break in tune, and it absolutely hauls arse. 

 

 

When I did pass/rotors on mine I had the same issue, apparently there is a certain order you are supposed to do it in.

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1 hour ago, Abomb said:

 

 

When I did pass/rotors on mine I had the same issue, apparently there is a certain order you are supposed to do it in.

Driver front, passenger rear, passenger front, driver rear. Yeah did that.

 

Left the car to sit overnight, pedal feels a lot better today. Will let it settle for a few days then re bleed. 

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

Driver front, passenger rear, passenger front, driver rear. Yeah did that.

 

Left the car to sit overnight, pedal feels a lot better today. Will let it settle for a few days then re bleed. 

I usually find it best to keep your foot on the pedal when you tighten the bleeder screw (keeps positive pressure in the system?). Start car, pump brakes a few times until the pedal goes hard. Job done :)

 

Keep in mind with new pads and rotors that your brake pistons have been pushed back in a lot further than when your pads and rotors are thinner, make sure to break in the pads and rotors for better initial bite and prevent rotor glazing.

Edited by Omsin

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6 hours ago, Omsin said:

I usually find it best to keep your foot on the pedal when you tighten the bleeder screw (keeps positive pressure in the system?). Start car, pump brakes a few times until the pedal goes hard. Job done :)

 

Keep in mind with new pads and rotors that your brake pistons have been pushed back in a lot further than when your pads and rotors are thinner, make sure to break in the pads and rotors for better initial bite and prevent rotor glazing.

Yep, done it once or twice, going to let it settle for a few days then re-bleed when I'm not rushed for time.

 

Brakes work fine, just slow take-up and a bit spongy. It's fine, just need to stop rushing. Lol

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Mca "street performance" Coilovers installed, with custom spring rates and their "stealth" option colouring.
 
brembos on, had to drill and helicoil one of the front caliper bolts as it was stripped.
 
Bendix heat treated vented slotted front rotors with z series pads, Bendix slotted vented rears, again with z series pads. Also stuck in some endless handbrake shoes, should make a nice difference.
 
Bled it all out, both sides of the calipers, pedal is still a bit squidgy in the first little bit of travel. Need to re bleed it, but gotta get more fluid first. 
 
Looking forward to getting this beast tuned. Been driving it around for a while on wastegate pressure and break in tune, and it absolutely hauls arse. 


You have dixcel pads and rotors yah muppet lol not bendix


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ye that one. 

 

Got em bedded in today, yeesh they pong when they get hot. But good god it drops anchor confidently. 

 

Mca struts are freaking magic too, it's so planted!!

 

Definately needs a tune though

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It doesn't look like much, but I've already got a short shifter and the main shifter bushings installed (hence no photos). Anyone else geek out when they order genuine parts that you wouldn't normally see or think about? I went through an exploded diagram of the shifter assembly on my WRX and decided to replace all the parts which connect or play a part in the shifter movement (shifter to transmission case). I even tried to order new nuts and bolts but they weren't in stock haha (little OCD)

IMG-2821.jpg

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On 17/07/2019 at 11:30 AM, Omsin said:

Anyone else geek out when they order genuine parts that you wouldn't normally see or think about? So  I even tried to order new nuts and bolts but they weren't in stock haha (little OCD)

IMG-2821.jpg

 

No, but I have a full genuine gasket rebuild kit if you want photos. 

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3 hours ago, Gripless said:

 

No, but I have a full genuine gasket rebuild kit if you want photos. 

Nobody enjoys replacing gaskets :/

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Try having to replace a single crush washer behind the timing belt cover because it’s leaking oil. 

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Spent all weekend wiring up a proper fuel pump supply setup along with a DCCDPro FuelPro controller. Seriously hoping it starts right up tomorrow when I do the final touches, really don't wanna be pulling the interior apart again to find where I went wrong.

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I pulled apart the rear floor to try and find a tow bar wiring harness but JDM Legacys dont have them so looks like i will have to splice into the factory wiring(which i hate doing even though i do it work all time)

Scored me a Tow Bar for my BP5 from Subwrecks so going to try and fit it soon

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Trying to fix dents and rust, this job takes more than expected.

 

29b9f08e3e39960282454dae7e747bb5.jpg

 

Will be continued...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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Posted (edited)

I’m going through the wiring and vacuum placement on my defi boost gauge and everything seems to be done properly, but it doesn’t steadily climb or hold its position, the needle just sort of runs around the general area. Is this from the internal waste gate flapping around or is there an issue with the stepper motor or something? I can take a vid if needed.

 

I should also note that during the opening ceremonies when the gauges sweep through the full range of motion my boost and egt are quite jerky on their way back down.

Edited by Abomb

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2 minutes ago, Abomb said:

I’m going through the wiring and vacuum placement on my defi boost gauge and everything seems to be done properly, but it doesn’t steadily climb or hold its position, the needle just sort of runs around the general area. Is this from the internal waste gate flapping around or is there an issue with the stepper motor or something? I can take a vid if needed.

 

Pretty hard to get those wrong. Have you double checked it is in the correct port on the control unit if it is a model with one?

Where is the vac teed into?

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4 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

 

Pretty hard to get those wrong. Have you double checked it is in the correct port on the control unit if it is a model with one?

Where is the vac teed into?

 

 

I agree, I didn’t install the boost gauge myself as it comes with the car. It is tee’d off a manifold reference and then teed a second time.

 

dpljwA0.jpg

 

4yxaaVN.jpg

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I should note that the second t was my doing, I used it as vacuum reference for my gfb ebc. I’m debating getting rid of the defi boost gauge all together since having two boost gauges is a little silly. But the problems with the defi unit were there before I installed the ebc.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

What model is the defi?

 

 

Not sure.

 

wBtSpf2.jpg

Edited by Abomb

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