Guest keltik

What have you done to your car today?

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Posted (edited)

I bought a 2008 Legacy GT wagon in manual a couple of days ago. Its an import and I purchased it in Dunedin. It has 52500kms and drove quite well. I polished it today and got a true idea of exactly what i bought. Its got a strong motor and box, the only thing that ive noticed is missing is the steel plate with the engine/transmission/paint codes. Hope I haven't bought a chop shop car lol. 

Edited by Boltonator
Double post for some reason
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7 hours ago, Boltonator said:

I bought a 2008 Legacy GT wagon in manual a couple of days ago. Its an import and I purchased it in Dunedin. It has 52500kms and drove quite well. I polished it today and got a true idea of exactly what i bought. Its got a strong motor and box, the only thing that ive noticed is missing is the steel plate with the engine/transmission/paint codes. Hope I haven't bought a chop shop car lol. 

Don’t worry, won’t be an issue until you go for a wof and when that’s due - TRACK CAR TIME

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I bought a 2008 Legacy GT wagon in manual a couple of days ago. Its an import and I purchased it in Dunedin. It has 52500kms and drove quite well. I polished it today and got a true idea of exactly what i bought. Its got a strong motor and box, the only thing that ive noticed is missing is the steel plate with the engine/transmission/paint codes. Hope I haven't bought a chop shop car lol. 


New legacys have the plate in the passenger side door jam. Threw me off aswell when i first got my legacy
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Posted (edited)

So my gf thinks I spend too much time on the car and she gave me an ultimatum...

her or the car...

 

at first I was skeptical, I thought I might have needed a bigger sunroof! But she went out without a problem 😏

 

 

 

7619979-C-5-CF2-4753-A226-C3436-E86-AD85

 

112-C2-EAF-2-ABA-4-A74-A5-B7-90324-E155-

 

If you find yourself in the same predicament I think the button is in the same general area, somewhere under the steering column labeled “ejecto seat”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Omsin
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Stripped the car down for more sound deadening:

 

0-C4879-BA-E6-B0-47-DB-9-F7-B-AE6-D37-E0

 

Added some foam on top of the transmission tunnel too (didn’t photograph it)

 

 

9-DD27-E7-E-BC63-482-C-B8-A9-FB843-CA6-C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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replaced my rear 02 sensor with a wideband and 14point7 spartan controller. eventual plan (long term) is to get it tuned - hence the wideband

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Finally got my order from the US to ceramic coat my car, should help keep all the road spray crap off when it rains 👌🏼

 

D93-D12-F2-780-A-4-DCA-A86-E-9287-DD7-E6

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Replaced the breaking down filter in my AOS, and put a new O-ring in. Went for a blat and then my silicone turbo outlet hose blew off.. again..

 

The worst job to put back on, but got it done.

 

With the AOS fixed, my AFRs are a lot leaner now, maybe 0.5 more lean compared to before. Anyone care to explain? My logic is: less oil getting burned, therefore leaner mixture (my tuner and I have been gradually taking fuel out in places over the last 6 months). Does more oil getting burned make AFR richer or leaner? 

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Posted (edited)

Maybe it’s just the sensor reading better without the burnt oil in the exhaust. 

Sensor may see oil as fuel since it’s the base from which petrol is made. 

 

That or oil blocks the reading of oxygen a bit

Engine may be running the same.

Edited by Gripless
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Posted (edited)

Oil dilutes the octane rating.

 

Oil is actually more like a dense vapor, instead of clean air mixing with fuel you have a oily vapor burning with fuel. Remove the oil, you now have clean air - cleaner burn.

 

HOWEVER, if the car no longer sees / sense's the oil vapour then your car should be using more fuel to compensate? - you may need to reset the car so you have a fresh base for the car to calibrate from?

 

I guess it depends how the ECU is set, it may account for some oil vapor in the AFR calibration due to the PCV setup from factory

Edited by Omsin

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6 minutes ago, Niran said:

@Omsin nice work! What was the sound difference like afterwards? 

 

 

A lot better, it actually isn't hard to strip the car apart, I think it could be done in an hour if you know how stuff comes apart. The tedious part is cutting and laying out the sound deadening, but could be done in a single day if you're committed.

 

I'm thinking of going over it again with the foam from Jay Car just to make it even quieter again haha, just need to touch up some parts in the boot because I ran out.. turns out you need a lot more than a 6mx45cm roll - probably closer to 10m x45cm required.

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10mm door and interior foam

https://trademe.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing/2279329024

 

10mm under hood or boot lining 

https://trademe.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing/2279717767

 

Light dynamat

https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/other/listing/2277191146

 

plus you don’t have to do curves or bend panels with the dynamat as it adds weight to stop vibrating which bent or curved metal doesn’t do anywhere near as much as flat. 

Outer door skins helps a lot too. 

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Got the new alarm installed and squared away today. Also put in a grimmspeed battery tie down that I got from moonlight racing. I have to recommend them so far, got it the next business day after I ordered it. 

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@Abomb did the battery tie down improve cornering? Been thinking of getting one myself to help with corner entry

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7 minutes ago, Omsin said:

@Abomb did the battery tie down improve cornering? Been thinking of getting one myself to help with corner entry

 

 

Totally handles like it’s on rails now. 

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Posted (edited)

Found this 3mm alloy backed foam. 

Kind of remember this thin stuff moulded in the doors of some euro cars. 

https://trademe.nz/marketplace/building-renovation/carpet-tiles-flooring/floorboards/listing/2281024186

 

Costs 1/20th the price since sold as flooring insulation and bulk. 

 

May just replace the thin plastic sheet inside the door with this. 

Edited by Gripless

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@Gripless is it closed cell foam or open?

 

would just need a light adhesive to stick it on if it checks out

 

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Posted (edited)

Give it a go and let me know how it turns out, I’m looking at doing a layer over foam on the rest of the car. Even just doing a simple tap test you can see how well foam stops noise transferring on hollow metal (after butyl mat has been layered)

Edited by Omsin

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On 17/08/2019 at 5:55 AM, Omsin said:

Don’t worry, won’t be an issue until you go for a wof and when that’s due - TRACK CAR TIME

 

Its my long distance GT car for now. Looking forward to doing a few roadtrips in my native South Island

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Changed my power steering fluid. Well, more accurately, I sucked out the fluid and poured some new atf in, cycled it, sucked it out, new stuff in etc etc so it was no longer a black sludge, and is now a semi translucent Reddy brown. 

 

Going to do it again in another week or so, just going to run that stuff to loosen up all the crap while chasing out other rattles. 

 

Car is running ok, need to get it tuned. Then a write up of the saga that has been this "she'll be done by Christmas" engine build that is now nearly 2 years overdue.

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I finally after 6 months installed my anti lift/caster correction kit on the BL5, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Also replace the leaking hydraulic diff cradle bush and its partner on the otherside with a whiteline positive retention kit and am yet to go row some gears. Now to get it retuned and go for that 12sec pass 

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Some of you may remember my gold bh5 from a few years ago, I saw it in Nelson yesterday parked up along the waterfront. In a very sad state, was so gutted to see it like that. Massive dents everywhere curbed mags, scratches and just a huge mess.

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