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I think you miss the purpose of a WRC car, which is to go over any sort of roads at great speed, with unreal suspension travel to soak up virtually any surface and turn and stop better than anything else. And have massive grip. To get point to point you won't go quicker, as long as point to point involves some proper corners... All these things mean that it is utterly wasted on the road and as you say, in a straight line not that quick. Although I would say upto 200km/hr they would still eat your average road car due to the gearbox shift speed, lack of lag and ability to get off the line quickly... Ohh and don't believe the 300hp BS, even the modern 1.6L ones running a tiny 32mm restrictor made more than that (have now gone up to bigger restrictor and more power since). Either way, the guy driving one on the road has clearly got too much money or a really small willy that he needs to compensate for. It's a travesty that the car isn't being used properly... But I would say that, as I am a little biased and get frustrated about how many people pose in performance cars, when they should be out racing their cars and using that performance. Grumpy old man racer rant over.

Gave her a thorough exterior clean, did the old hogzaust (mainly as a test to see if I can stand a louder exhaust) and joined the forum! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The WRC cars aren't really that fast as road-cars go, breathing through a straw will do that to you. They only make about 300hp, impressive but not earth-shattering torque figures as well. Put it this way, you would get your arse handed to you by a Commodore with a cam or an Evo with a boost tap. You could widebody a Spec C and spend $20k on suspension followed by another $20k on brakes and you would be most of the way there. Add a cage and some nice seats, steering wheel and a pedal box if you really wanted for that authentic racecar feel. A lot of the changes they make do f*ck all for performance, they're just there to stop the car falling to bits during a rally stage. They do get some very trick driveline components though, and the gearbox is a work of art. They move the strut towers so you couldn't quite achieve the same geometry with a regular car. In terms of importing and getting one road-legal-ified... tricky, as I dare say they don't meet any of our regulations for impact or emissions.

This is a bit of a dream of mine (and by no means do I have the money to do it), but I have seen a Japanese dude on instagram (@junya1730) who dailys an actual ex-wrc subaru coupe. It got me thinking- how would you achieve this in NZ? Forget driveability of the current engine as it would need to be tuned accordingly but I love the look of the S12 hawk-eye model wrc model. Hell, I even love the S10 (I think) blob-eye model too! Money would solve everything but lets hear your comments! Tarmac spec wrc car rolling down the road ready to put the shits up anything it comes across!

http://manawatucarclub.org.nz/event/envirowaste-manfeild-4-5km-sealed-autocross/?instance_id=1037 4.5km autocross, which is about the longest autocross you will ever do... Basically drive round the whole Manfeild track, both front and back at once. With some chicanes to keep the speed down. Due to only doing 1 lap at a time you are much less likely to break your car too... Do it! I will most likely be there in my E30 BMW (as WRX is in bits). Good cheap fun in a low key environment, with no requirement for a race license. Do it!

Behind the Northwest Mall.

For what it's worth the same applies to any car built to a set of rules - every second lap time you see in NZ ior AUS s compared to the V8SC times but they're massively hobbled by their regulations Don't the WRC cars make that 300hp at like almost all RPM though?

Sure you can go faster point to point. The WRC cars are built to meet a very specific bunch of rules; if you throw that rulebook out the window you can probably build a faster car for much less $$. I bet the old Macbilt 22b that's kicking around on here would be quicker on a sealed surface, and it probably cost about the same as 1 WRC gearbox. And I absolutely believe the 300hp stuff for the old ones (the newer ones make closer to 400) - there is no breaking the laws of physics (though WRC cars do try very hard) and flow dynamics says with the boost and rpm limits they have to work with, combined with the restrictor, they would have a very hard time flowing even 400cfm, less than the flow of any decent VF series turbo let alone anything vaguely serious. I still think an Evo with a boost tap would whup one in a drag race if you drove it like an animal. And while it's been hashed out before, the "you have a fast car so you should race it" thing is stupid. Some people just enjoy modifying cars. Some people like having a fast road car. Racing is very very very expensive, you will break stuff, no doubt about it. I've been driving my relatively fast car on the road for 3 years now and it's finally cracked the manifold, but I've really enjoyed it not being broken for such a long time. Your weekend hoon car should have some theatre, some ridiculousness. It should be low and uncomfortable and dumb. I want to change my driver's seat to a proper race style fixed-back bucket seat because it will be less comfortable and a thousand times more posery and never see a racetrack, ever, and every time I hop in the car I will feel like it's a little bit special and not just a slightly faster version of my daily. If having a cage you have to clamber over and a 5 point harness it takes you 10 minutes to get in and out of makes your Sunday backroad racer feel a little more special then that's a perfectly valid reason to have one, in my opinion. Impractical boyracer hoon rant over.

If its survived for 41 years without being written off and/or maiming the driver it deserves a cheaper rego..

Pretty sure a WRC coupe would make it in under the Special Interest Vehicles rules. They were road legal here back in 98/99. You'd need an authority card for the cage.

lol Yuck, no kerb hopping for my dream haha all about the (tarmac spec) lows.

His has an S204 engine in it, very streetable. It's also chassis #31 The vantage wrc Subaru that's still here is also chassis #31 Did they make two #31 chassis? There's a kid down the road from my work making a replica wrc 22B as well, Project 22B (can't remember exactly) on instagram Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Or a Rally Spec WRC car able to hop curbs & S***

Great point! It's the flat, reliable power curve enabler. I already knew FMIC was clearly superior, but wasn't aware of just by how much. Also, seems like the hot side of the engine is the only part good for wrapping. That and air flow is king in cooling. Hence perhaps also an uncluttered engine bay. Heat shield good too then? And when @Munkvy was saying radiator I was thinking IC. That's a good, separate piece altogether?! If a turbo is oil and water cooled, then a radiator would take care of the water cooled aspect, right? Learnt a bit more here so far than I did lurking in Naisoc and Ozfoz.

It's not a small increase in peak power It's a massive difference in knock prevention and power loss People say "Only gain 15hp peak with fmic" What they fail to mention is "Oh but there's also 50hp loss at times with TMIC" Re the shroud - all subarus HAVE a shroud from scoop to intercooler already. If it doesn't then it's been removed and the intercooler is near useless at the moment anyway

Right managed to put up the videos form the track day including the gear box being killed

Yea that or the immense skill it take to keep it on the road & in one piece for 41 years might count for something

200rpm is hefty, I'd chase that over a small increase in peak power. (Autocorrect just tried to change that to "potato power" )

Afr1 is drivers side front sensor. Afr2 is passenger side front sensor. It is different in sides

@Joker

I agree for anything pre 2000 is pretty much garbage for any above average power levels. The v7 sti cooler is pretty decent, seen it hold 240kw pretty nicely. Shrouds and airflow are key. Below 200kw the stock coolers perform within a safe range, the front mount will work significantly better in all the tests I've seen documented. RDL reckoned about 200rpm difference between a front mount and top mount both on tuned ecu when they tested it.

do hdt stickers give as much improvement as sti stickers ?

I like the bonnet scoop that doesn't match up with the intake. Would be interesting to see if there is even a hole in the bonnet for the scoop But it has a strut brace! Now to get back to some real work

https://petrolicious.com/articles/traversing-southeast-asia-with-a-crew-of-subaru-imprezas-pt-1

the latest magnavolt lethal response system will keep da bitches off your metal extra zap for serial offenders

Given the age and lack of safety in the venger shouldnt it be up around the price of a bike? You know, given the whole increased risk of permanently debilitating injury in a minor crash...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/holden/auction-1323742477.htm

Yesterday/last night New colour for the wheels

I will fly the flag for Clubsub! I can be that guy!

I found a drop in coolant temp by going round the edges of the radiator and sealing them to the chassis, so that air can't flow around the radiator. I was having issues at idle on start lines in my rally car with the coolant temp getting too high in summer. This fixed this. Otherwise, as EVERYONE has said, FMIC will significantly drop IAT, it is worth it. And as you can see from my profile pic, not like the FMIC is that noticable...

also to make turbo's work better they need heat so Exhaust Wrap is a good idea yes? (pita to do & fit)

I'm disagreeing Even a stock evo (or similar) intercooler and a an ebay piping kit will be a massive improvement over the stock subaru offering

Bonnet Spacers are equally S*** akin to the rubber removal trick (that I had never heard about before now) & let air in not hot air out as described

I can't tell if you're making a great dad pun with "cool" club or not You can make them invisible if you want to keep a stock looking car, but no matter how you dress it up anything you do to improve top mount efficiency is pissing in the wind compared to just putting the cooler in a proper position I know it's a bit crass but my point stands - you can faff about with all the ducting and heat tape and oversized scoops you want but it's ultimately still going to cook itself as soon as the car is stationary for more than a few seconds, and with what a front mount kit costs these days it's a hard to argue proposition. Ive got a couple of small slimline fans in the garage if you want them, I fitted them to the underside of a v7 sti cooler on a gtb and whilst it was semi effective, it still paled in comparison to a cheap trademe front mount As well as that, it's worth going to the effort of straightening out of straightening out your top mount fins - it blows me away how many cars have them all flattened down, it renders the cooler near useless when air can't go through it. Ditto for upgrading to silicone / sti joiner pipes, the old corrugated plastic ones aren't too great. Oh oh also the old line about moving a pod filter into the guard if you have one, give things a head start not a handicap

A lot Ive done measuring of TMIC temps with and without the under try and it's a startling difference in how quick it cools from being heat soaked Speaking of which - best thing for keeping intake temps down is to lose that top mount you want to keep. The "lag" from a front mount is a load of bollocks and the temp differences are huge in the real world I have run fans under a top mount cooler which does work quite well too, in actual measured terms not guesswork terms The rubber seal at the back of the engine bay is a high pressure area at speed, it pushes air in if you remove it and makes it harder to push air through the bonnet scoop. Leave it in place unless you just want more noise

I've found, ironically, that I get better fuel economy with eco mode off. And if I put my foot right down it stills boosts at 13psi, weird.