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Ok haven’t spent much time around the car and build lately but repost from the 500kw build. Kind of want it done mid October or I’ll run into other things I need to get sorted. Wiseco boostline rods are top of list, as well triangles are structurally awesome (without the O) Plus rated to 2000hp so no chance they will bend or break. RCM 12/14mm studs means no head modification and just tapping the block out. Since that is the only soft metal there is no reason to go 14mm as s99 steel should not stretch unless the engine s***s itself. I was going ARP but the prices are way too high for the 11mm let alone anything bigger. More I’ve seen from overseas that pinning and line honing the crank journals is a must. EFR7163 is here and needs to be ceramic coated then heat wrapped in alloy ceramic alloy sandwich heat shield. Has the dual port turbosmart wastegate actuator all fitted. GFB makes a vent to atmosphere valve for the EFR now so can keep the pssh noises. Thinking to that I will keep the EFR boost solenoid. Exhaust needs a bit or work still to make it straight through not quad tipped. Even though it is titanium smaller AdrenalinR one naught sound better. Luckly I don’t have to drive to work as that pitch stop still sounds like s*** vibrating the firewall. Intercooler is still a big unknown. Really want to go water cooler and no bonnet scoop 😱🤬 yes yes, special place in hell awaits I know.

If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered. Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different? Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc. If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)

Oooooh thats niiiiiiice. Me wanty.

OK this is now officially a review thread, replaced the fronts with these on weekend http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/Hi-Fi-Speakers-%26-Accessories/Component-Speakers/6-5-Paper-Cone-Woofer-Midrange/p/CW2194 Had to ditch the factory brackets and secure them direct to the door (magnet size was too big to fit through the spacer hole). Must say for a $41 speaker (each), they produce a very nice punchy mid bass and almost as much bass as the factory 8" sub. Ive use Response brand before in the past, and as per the older models, they don't dissapoint. They dont upset the balance of the system, and id rate them a 10-15% improvement over stock. Settings after install Bass +2 Treble -2 Fade - Front +9