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http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/777689-jdm-sti-gdb-ecu-pinouts.html Heres the link to the manuals and the forum post i followed. I double checked all of the OPs instructions before doing it and traced all the wires back to make sure i didnt fry my link lol. All ive gotta do now is configure the ecu to use the factory spec c iat instead of the one that people use when they splice into the maf sensor temps. Then extend the wires from the watersprayer to the boot and check that works with the manual and auto function. Anyways no more time to work on my car, ive got rally cars to prep for the upcoming season, fab work doesnt get done on a keyboard (and not much time to do so might i add)

Does your car makes nasty scraping sound when you wind down the windows, or maybe you've got scratches down your windows already? The issue is caused by the buffers the window is secured by getting worn and full of ingrained dirt like so; You'll need; * a Subaru with frameless windows (any will work mostly the same way, but this guide is for BP/BL Legacies) * socket set (mainly a 10mm) * medium JIS/Philips screwdriver * small flat head * old toothbrush * graphite powder (i got mine from repco years ago, but you can also get it from Mitre10) Step 1; First start by putting the window down. Once you've removed the door card you wont be able to without having to replug it, and thats a pain you don't need to bother with. Remove the door card, you'll have 3 screws, one behind a panel behind the chrome door handle, and two behind the door pull trim. For the one behind the chrome door handle, first hold the handle open and insert the flat head in the small opening at the top of the panel behind the handle. Try to push down to flex the panel and it should pop out. The door pull trim is a pain to remove. It is probably the hardest part of this whole thing. You'll need to pull the top of the handle towards you and kinda twist it in the direction of the dashboard. (if looking down at the handle on the drives side twist Counter-clockwise, and for the passenger side twist Clockwise Then there are many clips, lift the card up and clear of the door, and disconnect a couple of connectors. To disconnect the chrome door handle, open the hatch, unclip the two actuator cables (the top one for the lock, the bottom for the handle) from the housing and rotate the cable so the ball at the end can be removed from the handle Step 2; You'll have two metal backed buffers (green) on the inside of the window that are held in by one 10mm bolt, and two plastic backed buffers (blue) clipped on the outside of the window that you remove by pulling both sides in to unclip it. If you have the Mcintosh headunit make sure you don't drop them as the door is covered in sound deadening and will be a pain to reattach neatly. Step 3; Restore the buffers. I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pull up the pile, being careful not to damage the pile or the backing material. Once there is nothing left flattened get a old toothbrush and carefully brush it to remove the dirt. You can try wetting it, but i've found that just causes it all to clump together. Before; After; Once it looks clean you should add some graphite powder to the buffer to aid as a lubricant (you don't want something wet like silicon as it'll leave a trail on the window, and also hold dirt and make it fail again all the sooner. Step 4; Reinstall!! When you removed the inner buffers it should of left some witness marks to where it was installed at the factory. Try and put them back where they were and it should hold the window nice and secure. Otherwise reassembly is the reverse as removal. Once its back together make sure the window will go up and down and the door will shut and you should be done.