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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/01/21 in all areas

  1. cars been in dirty 'rally' mode for few months now due to auckland water ban (that's my excuse and i'm sticking with it ) , took it slow and did a full simple detail by hand, feeling out and taking notes of areas for paint correction later. vacuum, interior clean with soapy water on leather bits , wipe down rest. wash/dry , meguiars ultimate polish 1 pass, meguiars ultimate wax, rainx glass cleaner, rain x water repellant on glass. silicone to black out the black stuff and around the tyres. ran out of wheel cleaner so warm dish soap and some elbow grease like good old days lol. basic clean down of engine bay, car has seen some dodgy conditions and few areas really going to need to bust out DA with compound for next time but good enough for now. was first time using meguiars ultimate wax on the body , normally a big fan of carnauba gold wax for the shine but this seems nearly as good and was just so much easier to use.. bought in to it because apparently the paint protection last longer, had i know how much easier it wipes on/ wipe off then i would have switched over years ago. in the pics i see i missed a few spots wiping off the wax, better go back and fix that 😆 also damn hazy reflections, should have not been lazy and bust out the DA do it right hard to see in photos but IRL you could slap a Bluebirds badge because there are a whole lotta chips here and on the sides from driving too 'enthusiastically' on gravel roads first time i actually cleaned the number plants, used toothbrush and warp dish soap, its crazy how it contrasts buffed out some nasty scratches this side. polished the muffler cans too... not that anyone will see them but feels good, didn't clean under side of car this time but next time it's up on jacks stands will do so!
    2 points
  2. It is almost never financially viable to do any swap that ends up with something that the factory actually built in the first place. Especially if you can't do all of the work yourself.
    2 points
  3. My mind is melting at the thought of buying a manual donor car to manual swap an automatic, when presumably you could just... ya know... drive the manual donor car.
    2 points
  4. Yeah that'll work fine! Note that the roll pin can be a PITA to remove from under the car, and that it's a dual-roll pin, so have to knock out the center one first, then the outer one.
    1 point
  5. Nice, i did assume that was the case ( i noticed from a trip to pick a part that the linkage did change slightly in the gc/gf chassis over the years too. I picked up a full v7 wrx shifter and linkage et (new bushes too) on the cheap so im going to run with that (and hope it fits....)
    1 point
  6. A well overdue and well deserved wash, polish, ceramic coat and trim detail.
    1 point
  7. How much to whip one of these up for the desk at work? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2425465
    1 point
  8. Just thought I'd update this with some info I've found, as I'm putting a newer setup in mine since the newer joint is easy to get (PN: 35047AC030). Subaru changed the shift linkages around 1996/1997. Running a couple of Chassis Codes in Amayama I found the images of the two. You can swap between the two styles, but you need the entire shift assembly; the Joint, rod, and selector: < 1996: >= 1997:
    1 point


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