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Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/08/21 in all areas

  1. After all the issues I had with the missus vw I still regret not pushing it out of the drive after setting it on fire 🤷🏼‍♂️
    2 points
  2. Regarding to the oil supply issue, have you removed or checked for the banjo bolt filters? I *think* that there are a couple of spots you may want to check to make sure that they either a) have been removed or b) aren't blocked up by small debris (it's fine mesh). You will want to then remove them if you do have them. There are various conflicting reports of the later Gen 4 models only having one, or none. I *think* they should have at least one, if not two. Try start here and see how you get on. There have been stories of turbos dying, people replacing them and then they die again due to the same issue - oil starvation. Oil starvation issue still persists due to the problem not being with the turbo, but in some other system that the turbo depends on (oil lubrication system). You may be able to check oil pressure if you datalog the car, or definitely if you add a oil pressure sensor and gauge via the likes of a sandwich plate. All of my information is coming from about a year ago when I had my GT. Fell out of the scene for a while so information gets a bit spotty. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  3. My research found that: 1. The ultimate heat management is molded heat shielding (inconel or bendy metal wrap etc.) - air gap + barrier is the most effective heat management solution. Unfortunately this is also the most expensive, also puts a lot of stress on the metal / increases wear 2. You do want to design everything around good air flow. Fresh air needs to be able to flow through and wisk away the heat where needed. 3. Ceramic coating seemed to be the best of both worlds and where extra protection is needed, add a shield - like in your case under the cam covers
    1 point
  4. There should be no pre load on even factory links. They are the same height on each side so as long as car is level or fully off the ground the bar has zero load. You can put side loading on the links lower rubber mounts if you don’t get the ones that slide along the lower bolt mount and you move spacers around to make them sit vertically below the hole in the swaybar.
    1 point
  5. On stock suspension (a lot of shock travel) I found the biggest difference when I went from the middle hole to the closest hole (Hardest setting). Sway bar settings go out the window when you change the factory struts/springs though. Big advantage of adjustable end links is taking out pre load so the bar can work how it’s designed to. Setting up corners is a lot smoother and you can feel a gradual resistance building up. If it’s already carrying tension you can get all sorts of weird handling going on and a really bad time on bumpy roads as the bar becomes “snappy” loading up more and unloading when the endlinks move with the control arm
    1 point
  6. I doubt that is 22mm, not even the sti has that in the rear, 19mm off the top of my head would sound more accurate. The 22mm whiteline has adjustable preset mounting points which effectively make the bar stiffer or softer depending on which mounting hole you use, if you wanted to futureproof you could go for an adjustable 24mm bar, I think it’s 1mm up or down for a three hole setup. Adjustable endlinks are a must
    1 point
  7. Big rear swaybar will induce oversteer, they tend to have a whack of body roll till you get them a bit lower, but very capable. Unless they are auto as joker mentioned, then they are like 70/30 fwd biased and will push like a mofugger into corners with low traction.
    1 point
  8. Yeah the diff place that did that and then th bear box said they had a lot of issues with the SG Japan imports as they had cheap as s*** components vs the NZ new ones. I had front and rear sway bars from white line. Rear subframe locks from white line. Camber arms and lots of Cusco bracing along with the coil overs and 4pot/2pot brakes. I used mine in sealed tracks though so different setup for that
    1 point
  9. I took a SF5 turbo Forester from stock to a track day car and was a heap of fun. Need to do a lot of work in handling an brake department that's for sure. -Sway bars made big change for the SF version as did coil over suspension stopped the boat like handling. -We used to have the SG Forester for my wifes car and had issues with rear diff and noise its whole time we had it rebuilt under warranty and was till never right so flicked it soon after.
    1 point
  10. Nice pic! Did you light paint it or it’s a long exposure? Sucks about the motor ;( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. My 04 XT WR-Limited. This pic was taken about a month before the motor lunched itself, its currently parked in my driveway in a puddle of its own disgrace
    1 point
  12. My FSTI blocking the road on the weekend. Forester_STI by Tim Rutledge, on Flickr
    1 point
  13. My XT after a quick clean Sitting on V8 STI Spec C suspension and 18" BM/BR Legacy wheels. Handles like a go kart
    1 point
  14. Redline exhaust You get what you pay for. Fitment is average and its loud a.f. Will need a boost controller as its a bellmouthed 3inch so it flows real well
    1 point
  15. If I wanted a Foz, it would be this one.
    1 point
  16. What i started with How she stands now
    1 point
  17. Some pics of my old fostie (our nick name for the forester) One the best Subaru's I've owned.
    1 point
  18. thanks for that, here is a quick video i made of my build so far which includes front mount, air intake, strut bar, exhaust blah blah ill post some pics once photo bucket has finished its maintenece (how convenient)
    1 point
  19. And just last week i replaced the missing plastic undertray with an aluminium one of my own creation. $50, a couple of hours, a jigsaw, some blocks of wood and a big hammer later this is what I've got Now this wasn't for any offroad shinanigans other than some simple gravel protection but after reading this article ( Browser Warning )and thinking about the reason for the oem guard it makes sense. The temp gauge on the dash has now dropped by two marks when cruising. Some of you may have noticed the snorkus lying on my garage floor, but I'm undecided about it's removal. It's only for CIA that it's out as I don't like the tiny pipe in the engine bay, If it was like a legacy with a scoop under the bonnet it would be ok. I'm fashioning a deflector and some baffles under the wing to create positive air pressure but limit any water spray ingress.
    1 point


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