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My wheels are done with being Media blasted and now Powder Coated by @chulozumo! Ho boy do I think that's an improvement over the silver that they were! So. The before And AFTER!

i didn’t do anything myself but I did receive some photos of turbo installed on the mock engine in car, down pipe next. Things getting more exciting, hopefully not long to go now.

Hey guys, Just thought I would give and update as its been some time now. I managed to find all/enough evidence to satisfy NZTA for the special permit. The car is now registered and driving on the roads. If anybody is interested in having the information I would be happy to share what I have. Thanks, Josh

Think I joined 2005/2006ish... recently back into the Subaru ownership game too, trying to relive the glory days! Have added a 2004 WRX STI Spec C WR-Ltd to the fleet. First Subaru was a 2004 WRX WR-Ltd, then a 2003 Spec C that got turned into a race car and written off at the ITM400, then built a 2002 Spec C into another better race car which I sold post Covid and naturally have regretted ever since! A reunion at some point would be good value. BT

I'm not ashamed to admit that I bought one of the knockoff turbo blankets off AliExpress last year. Smoked a bit to start off with but hasn't caught fire or anything yet. The only negative is that it doesn't cover the inlet to the turbo very well. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000085676.html I also bought some snazzy Subaru logo valve caps too

Nope, there are people who prefer a single turbo and people who are in denial.

been a while since i could contribute to this thread gave her a full detail in and out, incl engine bay etc.. claybar, spot compounds for couple scratches, ultimate polish, ultimate wax. rainx on glass and blacken plastic trim bits that had slightly faded over time. more photo spam in the garage thread

Old Wainui Beach: New - shouldn't be too hard:

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=39306&fbclid=IwAR1UdZORXARy70ruWjEDbN_WcROUDUOM4ia5VQsxn_HOmKPAKhDaa9cnOes

That's good to hear that more of you jet guys are coming back. It does suck about the different base though. If I'm lucky I might catch the legacy around the carpark sometime. I'm just on the dash. Today was wash day ready for tomorrow. I still can't get over how the new exhaust looks, as always the pics don't do it justice.

I'm on my third attempt to clean my alloys, they were really dirty from the last owner, finally getting through layer of brake dust/etching now starting to look silver. First attempt at cleaning the carpet, lots of coffee stains down the side of the seats, but need some more products to clean properly. Also Clay barred the exterior, but it will need the stone chips treating and then a good polish.

It has been a few years.... I see earlier in this chat that the Queenstown/Wanaka area was a big question mark for 98 but they now have it at Wanaka at the new BP just before the township. I didn't see it in Queenstown. I visited both for the airshow. Currently sitting at $3.32 before 6c loyalty card discount. Cromwell reports having it as well on the website. Wanaka does not, but I gave them a call before I travelled down and filled up there twice. I also saw two NPDs in Cromwell and Frankton with 100+ Octane Greymouth also has 98 at their Mobil as well as their BP.

Q1. No, no gains, if anything you will slightly _lose_ as the aftermarket rods and pistons are potentially heavier, less well balanced, and not quite as good a fit as OEM. Assuming identical geometry, i.e. not gaining/losing compression. Stock turb and intercooler are never going to push the limits of even the stock internals if everything else is happy. Q2. I wouldn't bother just doing one. Either it's a forged build or it isn't. As to whether you would replace the pistons.... if you buy used pistons, you have no idea of their history. If you buy new pistons they're going to cost you about $500 for a set for stockies, is it worth it? I'd say probably not. Q4. The only factory internals I'd consider an "upgrade" are V7 STI EJ207 pistons and rods, and they're >$2000 for the pistons and around $800 for a set of rods, at which point you may as well just go aftermarket. Q5. Head gaskets, OEM. Rebuild kit in terms of bearings? YMMV. OEM are probably going to be the most reliable at stock power levels but might cost a metric assload. Q6. Yes, it's fine. Honestly unless #racecar where you have specific oil pressure needs, dicking about with the oil pump seems to lead to more problems than it's worth. Q7. As long as you weren't way out I'd probably nana it to the tuner, especially if you had slightly dropped compression rather than adding it. As long as you were comfortable it was driving well enough to make that trip safely. Anything turbo is kinda fundamentally variable compression anyway because the actual resultant cylinder pressure could be just about anything. With that out of the way.... I wouldn't bother with a rebuild to factory spec. A better option, IMO, is to just keep driving it on the assumption it will blow up at some stage, and in the meantime get another block and start building that one up properly (forged etc). Then when yours finally gives up the ghost, you have the option of throwing in a bigger turbo or something and making a bunch of power.

The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably

Spoiler

cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756 I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality. I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in. but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!

Purchased a set of the optional STI BBS forged wheels to remedy one of the few I don’t like about the car. Also a bonus is less unsprung weight (apparently they are around 3kg lighter/wheel). **Images from the internet Will go from To

That or failing some form of quality control. I've purchased a few things as tests that look identical as other ones I've already had besides casting damage etc

Another revival with some pics from last year while i was hunting for forum bugs. Some updates since photo's taken as have a black plate now after seeing a mates one and couldn't resist as well as some ad08r's.

OK, so i needed to have both sets of green plugs connected. The set in the drivers A Pillar and the set in the passenger foot well that were tucked in under the ecu bracket under the carpet. I downloaded the image and had to make my own def file in rom raider to be able to read it. Thanks for the pointers on where the plugs are.

The green test mode / flash connector will be on the left side footwell 'JDM Passenger footwell.' When connected and you turn the ignition on, you will hear the fans and solenoid cycling. This is how you know you have the correct plugs connected. Also, be mindful of your battery voltage. It may close the interface if the voltage is below 12v. Ensure that lights, etc., are off, and sometimes, it pays to connect a battery charger."

It's local~ish to me so yeah I hope to make an Appearance

Most people who track a track car don't have insurance on the track either!

Got my genuine Recaro seat rails assembled and the passenger seat in for a test fit. Seats are from a 2004 Accord euro R Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

https://www.facebook.com/events/1235536986850058 Falgs has extended an invite to the entire @ClubSUB.org.nz community : we're hoing to gather as Many Subaru as possible under our Banner on the day Would be awesome to get the entire team down to Hardpark, even see if there is a way to hold a specific clubsub event around Hardpark, and help get some of these guys off the street and into legitimate motorsport. Event added to our Calender here : https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/crime/114627633/falgoon-patel-i-am-a-car-enthusiast-not-a-boy-racer-out-to-cause-trouble

My quest continues and I did find a unit in a wrecker's yard which is under warranty. However it's a small change in part number so I've asked Subaru NZ and Fujitsu if there are compatible. I'll be pleasantly surprised to get any response ! Part number of original unit: 86271AL270 - replacement cost 11,500 (WTF) Found via wrecker: 86271AL240 - cost $300 🙂

Sony gps touch screens one seem to be popular on here for replacement units. you can either go all in one replacement android units from China. or get the double DIN surround so any common stereo unit fits. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/interior/listing/3883430991?bof=Kyx20DpK most now have either a select car option that setups up the steering wheel buttons or has a mode to learn buttons. though ring Subaru head office, dealers are not exactly helpful and they may offer you something where a dealer can’t or won’t bother. edit: added link to din converter panel

TL;DR: Buy a prong style filter removal tool first, such as the Toledo one, which goes down to 60mm diameters. Thought I'd share a brief writeup on the remote mounted ATF filter replacement for the 5 speed auto. For a JDM 2008 Outback EZ30 in my case, but probably similar for a Legacy/Liberty 2.0/2.5 GT, Outback 2.5 XT, Tribeca, and possibly the rare Forester “S Edition”. These filters don't exist to my knowledge on the newer 3.6 vehicles. I was surprised to find my car had one of these filters, as they were supposedly deleted from 2008. But I guess the cutoff was after May when mine was built. They are supposedly a lifetime filter, but I have no idea if the previous owners in Japan had it changed, and 14+ years sounds like more than a filter's lifetime to me, the element is made of paper after all. The genuine Subaru/Tokyo Roki AT filter can probably be found cheapest on EBay or Amayama. but I got one of TradeMe from "redengineparts" based in Whangarei, because I wanted it quickly. This wasthe listing the listing link, or Subaru Part number 38325AA032. This video explains things well, and this other video shows the various Subaru filters cut open, and why it's best to go genuine for these. Transmission/hydraulic fluid is pumped at a much higher pressure than engine oil, meaning the bypass pressure for a normal engine filter would be completely wrong. The genuine filter also has an anti drain back valve, meaning it stays filled with the engine stopped, and there is less mess on removal. Battery removal/reinstallation is super easy, if you can't figure that out from the video then don't attempt this. Biggest issue was getting the old filter out in the tight space. I had unbolted the small wiring harness bracket to get a bit more space, but this shouldn't be necessary. The last guy in Japan had installed it a little too tight for my pliers or bare hands. The bigger EZ30 oil filters are much easier. I didn't want to risk puncturing the filter with the pliers and still not be able to remove it, so I picked up a Toledo 3 prong tool from SCA. Pics in last image of the Imgur album. This filter diameter is only like 65mm, so all the other brands were too big. There was only just enough room to get a 3/8 ratchet onto it. A short story in a photo album: https://imgur.io/a/mAl9bsN Prefilled the new filter with new Idemitsu ATF-HP, lubed the seal, checked the old seal had come out with the old filter. Then tightened as tight as my ATF covered hand could get it. Filter says 14-16Nm, but it was too tight to get a torque wrench in there. Service manual says a bit less than that anyway. Started it up, checked the gears still worked lol, then removed the battery again to check for leaks and try to get it a bit tighter. Also did my 3rd drain and fill of the pan. Shifts seem slightly smoother, but they were never bad in the first place. ECU reset with the battery disconnect may have helped a little too. I'll leave the correct ATF brand and ATF replacement procedure for another post. Cheers

Anyone making the journey down/up to CHCH for Flat Nats? Or just down the road? I'll be there in my wagon Just got an oil and coolant change then a wash and I'll be good to go.

Subaru like to reuse components... a 5 speed shifter linkage will probably be reused on every 5 speed gearbox ever made. Maybe even the 6 speeds are the same. You can use online parts catalogues (i.e. https://jp-carparts.com/subaru/carlist.php?maker=subaru) and places like partsouq (that generally know what parts are equivalent), to verify.

Then cam this weekend, and with me competing in NZRC I really don't have a lot of my own time for fun and the car has been sitting for a long time. But as with all good things! it finally happened! I entered the car into a round of the Central Region Sprint Series, it was a bit of a nice event for me as this road was where my entire rally career started two years previously. even found some 2nd hand rally tires! Well the car needed some things done, the first was both front CV boots were Bluetooth, the exhaust was lacking and the Handbrake not great for Rallying, and a Aircon that was next to useless and only restricted air into the Radiator. So a big day smashing out all of the Mechanical to do's. Wasn't able to track down a new lead for Spark plug 3. There was also the fact that the car really did not look the part, but we are also on a massive budget, but decided to do the best we ca, so we broke out the Rattle can and the vinyl I had stored away. She did look the Part come Race Day, Well to me at least, Something to break up every single subaru running a 555 variation. Honestly an amazing Day, Except for the Massive engine pulling problems. Now this I'm really someone might know what the hell is going on, New Sparks, all leads are fine and when clutch is in, car rev's all the way, But under load there seems to be NOTHING between 2k & 4K I ended up being unable to shift into 3rd at all as the rev's would just sit and the speed slowly drop, there was a few times I got 3rd at 4K+ rpm and It pulled nicely! Anyone heard of this before? I was worried it was just the car and 1600cc of Very old engine not able to handle the foot flat moments but seems to be starving of something under heavy load?

Its the wifes but still counts 😂, keeps her away from my sti 😉

Black number plate surrounds would help. Always change mine as they don’t pay for advertising 😂

Passed the cert with flying colours but driving it for the first time after doing the hoops I’ve noticed one of the speakers now hums along with the engine speed so may need to piss around with the wiring to get that back to how it used to be

Haha Reviving an old thread. So I ended up finding a brand new VF22 from dodsons motorsport on trademe at less than half the price of a new aftermarket turbo. They had 3 of them sitting under a bench in the back of there workshop for years thay they found in a clean up. Fitted a IWG75 wastegate actuator. Then imported a ported matched up pipe from the UK, that tappered smoothly from the 60mm header collector down to 47mm to match the turbo exhaust housing. Also ported the housing and the wastegate. Fitted soem intake manifold spacers to keep intske temps along with a turbo beanie plus the factory heatsheild overtop of the turbo beanie. Car tuned on Gull force 10 98 made 255kw at wheels and 444nms torque. Been extremely fun! Have run a 12.15sec 1/4 mile at only 104mph as i missed 5th gear so coasted from top of 4th to the line. Left some time on the table there. (I know People will debate a VF22 will make that power but thats what the dyno sheet says and the 1/4 mile time i think is representative of that power also especially coasting from 4th. Have dragy footage to back it up) Now my problem is Gull has stopped supplying force 10 98 to my local station. So I will need a retune for another type of fuel. And possibly lose some power due to no ethanol content. So considering again. A slightly larger stock location bolt on turbo, since i will need a tune anyway. Has anyone had experience with the turbo care tcrx400 turbo? Or them as a company? Also looking at the GCG again. Be quite fun to hit 270-280kw if the 5 soeed box and open deck block would take it.

So ahh yeah 20 years ago around now was my 1st Track Day with ClubSUB @ Manfeild, Ronin won a Jacket & I scored a "Most improved" Wallet that's about my memory of the day so yeah was a bit nostalgic up in the Tower on the weekend watching FlatNATS '23 group taking off back in the day I used to Hire the track under my own name (maybe around 2006 or 7) and we did what we wanted pretty much same for Taupo, though we did get told off for a DIrtbike hah

The bullet/spike ones always look bogan as. They work on a sacked Ford Courier and not much else, but each to their own I guess. On the one hand, they're just nuts, as long as they're steel you can't go too far wrong. On the other hand I probably wouldn't buy whatever the cheapest ones are.

Depends on how much you want to ride the clutch etc. I when with twin plate due to lower operating force but higher torque. id get a spring centre one even if you go puk. Just that little bit nicer on drive line.

I did not know but the 2008 up hatches have 2 little rubber buttons to open them o the hatch itself. one is the middle that opens the actual hatch. But it’s just the hatch and common. the other is under the same trim but at the very right next to the tail light and it unlocks the doors. so you can open the doors for everyone without having to use the remote.

I’ve held it for so long! I liked this game, if you do I’ll definitely try to get it next time I’m back in Christchurch

New decade... I'll give it a go. Think that area has changed a wee bit though

Toyota GR Yaris and the coming corolla, Nissan 350Z are a couple that are trying to buck that trend from Japan.

I know, super disappointing. I guess they think "the fans" means "25 super rich assholes". The upside is that they are perpetuating the desirability of the chassis... and maybe one day it will reach the levels of the mark 1 escort chassis, and someone starts to produce them again, and in an affordable manner.

And.... PRODRIVE REDEFINES AN ICON WITH THE P25 25 years since the first Subaru Impreza World Rally Car (WRC) made its winning debut on the stages of the World Rally Championship, the Prodrive P25 recaptures the essence of that very Impreza, while taking inspiration from the 22B arguably the most iconic Impreza. Modern technology ensures the P25 is more powerful, lighter and with better handling. This time it will have a 2.5 litre flat four ‘boxer’ engine producing in excess of 400 bhp, a six speed semi-automatic paddle-shift gearbox and, due to extensive use of carbon fibre, a lightweight chassis. The P25 will be produced in a limited run of just 25 cars, all built at Prodrive’s headquarters in Banbury, UK. Peter Stevens, who styled the original Impreza WRC for Prodrive, has defined the design, while the engineering of the car has been overseen by Prodrive technical director, David Lapworth, who was responsible for the original Impreza WRC. The P25 is the idea of Prodrive chairman, David Richards. He said: “The original 22B Impreza is considered the most iconic of Subarus and highly sought after. We wanted to enhance everything that made that car so special by applying the very latest technology to create our own modern interpretation of a car that’s established a place in motoring history.” The Prodrive P25 will make its debut at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in June. Prodrive is now taking expressions of interest and the first of the 25 cars will be delivered to customers later this year.

That is sad. RIP Debbie.

Finally got around to putting in the bpv 😂, got to wait till Friday to adjust and test it tho 🙈

Post here and make the thread a sticky ?

I passed with my old decatted DP and R400 but it was definitely above the legal limit, I go to a local mechanic though as I would have been willing to bet VTNZ would fail it for noise. Most straight piped Subies seem quieter than it. As much as it isn't the ‘right’ thing to do i’d say your easiest option is to put a factory one back on for the recheck then go back to the R400 later on.