slidingstrokes

Hey Guys keep an eye out for my baby

api rating SH AND SG are OLD AS hell, todays rating is SN. anyone reading this post go Penrite 5w 60, low k\'s fresh rebuild, penrite 10w 50 middle of the range to high k\'s ie 80k to 190k use 15w 60 190k plus always full syn. If smoking out the exhaust while engine is hot use the thicker range oil or higher number I\'ve listed come to super cheap in albany, It\'s not a car if it\'s not a subaru hahahahah

car service refill capicity for ej20 is 4.3 litres as well (according to castrol, penrite, nulon, and valvoline)

I sell oil for a living at a retail shop so have been trained for 2 and a half years on the annoying shit ok first check this out http://www.lnengineering.com/oiltest.pd bit old but gives you an idea on the brands that are good and what to stay away from basically go for penrite or royal purple!! there are ratings called api ratings basically these go in alphabetical order from SA(doesn\'t exist anymore) to SN(best quality avalible as far as I know. (there is a acea rating which is a European rating I just don\'t understand it at this point in time) The api rating goes in alphabetical order for the second letter from worst to best sa being the worst(model t ford oil) SN (current rating two years out atm) basically anything that meets API rating of SN is good oil SECOND IMPORTANT RATING is the viscosity or thickness of the oil which is the 10W 40 or whatever Viscosity is a measure of thickness heres a wiki link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity basically W stands for winter so thickness of oil at low temperature second number stands for how much it retains it\'s thickness (oil thins out as temperature rises) IF YOU WANT GOOD DAILY DRIVER OIL AND YOUR UNDER 200K in your turbo subaru and it doesn\'t smoke 10w 50 Full syn penrite if over this point I RECOMMEND 15W 60 FULL SYN PENRITE ALWAYS USE FULL SYN IN SUBARU\'S DON\'T CARE WHAT ANY MECHANIC SAYS THEY RUN TEN TIMES BETTER ON THE STUFF bottle\'s of penrite sell for 60 to 70 dollars retail for 5 litres GUESS WHAT GUYS, I have an incentive at work atm for shell helix (screw that... shitty oil) I may not be 100 percent correct but I\'m close to it I use 10w 50 penrite in my own TT Legacy thanks for reading

That's the instructions for a 1994 bg5 as well I didn't have those when I did mine tho basically mate if you want and easy way to do it. Between your battery and windscreen water resvoir you will see too lines going in to the side guard called number 23 and number 10 pull them out and plug them together then locate your turbo with the wastegate on it on mine it's on the passenger side there will be a vac line running from turbo to wastegate with a t piece on it unplug line 23 from here plug up with a small screw bolt then you put your boost controller in between turbo and wastegate and don't put it past 18 psi. if you can provide picture or make and model I can tell you what to do next of boost controller

if your running it of the back of the factory Bov you should get 12 - 14psi different parts of the manifold will vary in different readings some times with turn turbos as there are restricting valves all over the engine for when the turbo's run in parallel tt engine's can be a headache

Both your turbo's are the same size they will be vf14 and vf13 running off one internal wastegate, if the engine no: is ej20h the most common mistake people tend to make is that the secondary is bigger what actually happens in that it runs off the one on the passenger side of your legacy and as the rpm picks up and they both drop off then there is a lag which both turbos then spool up in parallel. the only upgrade you can do is as the post above or if you want more power get a bleed valve(manual boost controller) and set the boost up 2 or 3 psi cheap easy between $34 - 99 for average quality

me and my mates bg5 both run 14 psi on factory boost(6500rpm) and 18 with a cheap boost controller isolating the factory solenoid. BC and BG both run mint tho BG's are way better if you wanted a weekend car to go on a road trip with. There not fast to begin with but after a few mods they hold there own.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

hey there guys I just replaced the middle section of the exhaust manifold underneath the engine right next to the oil filter most of you would of see it some even run waste gates from there on the twin turbos, as it had rusted through and was losing power so I changed the pipe once and it ran way worse then I changed it again with a better quality pipe off a lower km legacy and it started having massive idling problems at first I just thought it was afm but I changed that with a brand new one from winger and it didn't change anything the whole car seems to shake at idle and idles below 500 rpm and runs rich plus smells like gas has any one had this happen to them (1994 legacy bg5 ej20h)

help just installed boost gauge hasn't been reading a constant number of two different pressures was reading at 6 then 12 then spiked up to 16, I'm very sure this car is stock so does anyone know the standard pressure readings of both turbos

hey everyone my mate has offered me his exhaust which he bought for his gc8 but he crashed it before he could put it on how hard would it be to fabricate it to fit my car?

in purple is where the old owner had his in red is where I believe it may be

hey there every one just got a boost gauge from work the other day and I was wondering which Vaccum line would be the most accurate, I found a vaccum line connected just before the silicone joiner to the top mount inter-cooler thought it might be the one just wanting some advise from someone who has this engine or knows the factory vaccum lines

there's a stock wastegate already not much point unless I get a new turbo and do up the internals I want massive power gains but I want to start somewhere is a frount mounted intercooler got any real point and what is the likely hood of boost leaks etc