madmike

Name n shame... Both garage and supplier...

Alright then... Looks like assholes are on the hunt for WRX\'s in Palmy. Stay safe out there people.

Someone had a crack at QYKCHK the night before... Between 7:30-8pm.. Parked outside our shop in the middle of town... Keep an eye out for your WRX if its around palmy

4 wheels, 1 steering wheel. And I would say the motor is most probably subaru flavoured...

You got it bro... Compressed air water traps

Okay dude... Time for you to put down the internets..... Headgasket job is an easy 8 hour job when you include removing and refitting the engine.... Let alone stripping the block to remove the heads. Do yourself a huge favour and stop trying to research this... Take it to a decent workshop and get them to fix it..

Go back and have another think about your cylinder pressures mate... Your getting vacuum when inlet valve closes and psi when inlet valve closes confused me thinks...

I can tell you funky and I both have first hand experience of blown HG... Mine was fine until you boosted. Then it blew coolant out. I know of a least three other motors that have done the exact same thing. The last one was only three weeks ago. So before you FFS me you better have got your shit all in a nice little row...

Sounds like you have toasted the head gasket mate.... Easy way to tell is... Take it for a really really quiet drive with no boost at all.. I mean NO BOOSTING.. It should not overheat. Then stop and boost it for a couple of mins through gears. If the temp shoots up then you deff have a toasted headgasket

And just remember that when you read turbo flow/pressure maps that these can be up to 10% out.. The maps are constructed from a turbo built and tested at the factory. The turbos that come off the line can have very minute differences that cause changes in flow and pressure. So as with engines. Two turbos that come off the factory floor one after another may not perform exactly the same..

Check the afm... Unless installed correctly and not allowed to vibrate they are an afm killer

Does it sound like this?

Haha I only did that once....

Ahh so you have a coil issue that you know about.. Go fix that then come back.

If its the standard TD05 waste gate you will be over boosting hard out. Yeah boost tap is okay. Yep set it to 12 and you should be okay.

Are you using the vf8 wastgate?

If you are using the standard boost control you will be basically free boosting and hitting boost cut. You need a boost gauge and a stand alone controller to run a TD05

There is a switch on top of the steering column..

Wheel bearing?

If the rear plat LSD is annoying you i have a viscous one you could swap with me...

+1 No point in revving it that high if there is no power there..

+1 it\'s about knowing the limits...

Car a/c runs at the Same pressure as any commercial 134a system bro. And yes generally after a burnout you change the burnout drier in the liquid line after a week then test an oil sample to check for further contamination. But on a car a/c system it is cheaper and easier because of he small quantity of both oil and refrigerant to change both. Although a flush with white spirits and a decent triple evacuation will most likely clear any contaminants from the system.

Nope evaporate won\'t need to be changed. Remember your system design.. The receiver dryer would have caught anything

They will replace the condenser if the compressor has shat itself It will have pieces of compressor metal in it. And receiver dryer change is a given... Get is done properly first time. If you shortcut this job it can turn into something a lot worse down the track.