Kiwi_Fozze

Gull 98 has 10% ethanol in it.

Ect, engine coolant temp.

I have defi gauges for oil temp, but water temp as part of the standard gauge cluster can be pretty inaccurate

My subie hit 110 oil temp peak on ruapuna, about the same time as the end of session and the brakes started to fade a little. Think 110 oil temp is sorta the upper limit that you want to be at, may we'll be worth looking into an external oil cooler

Have seen plates made up that prevent air from going around rad, things like the top "slam panel" etc, forcing the air into the rad. Are you running an external oil cooler? It may be worth investigating water sprayer setup for intercooler if front mounted to try and reduce heat transfer from there

The 3.0s are fantastic on long drives in terms of economy. My old one got just on 700km per tank. If you can, get a manual 3.0 or 2.0 turbo. And as new as you can afford. The pre-facelift (2003-2006 ish) 2.0 turbo autos are well known to cook the turbo The non turbos below the 3.0 are a bit of a false economy, it's still a reasonably heavy car, and the smaller motors are just... Woefully underpowered. The 2.5 single overhead cams are notorious for cooking headgasket too.

Anyone got a tune for a v7 on a link at about 200kw? I need a break in tune, and not having had much exposure to link stuff I was wondering if anyone had something basic kicking around that I could pinch to look over. Cheers!!!

Popped in to see my engine builder. Dropped off some goodies. Block is getting vapor blasted and hopefully machined next week. Waiting on some other goodies to arrive from here and there, getting quite excited about it all. It should be good.

Had some bits show up this morning. Being woken at 9am while I'm doing nights, not so plesant. Being greeted at the door by a courier driver with several boxes of very expensive shiney bits made it a little less horrible.

Nightshifts do funny things to people's brains, herpaderp

If it's a 2001 legacy (I'm taking a stab based on your username) you'll need a code reader to pull em, the black plugs under the dash trick doesn't work for the revision d's

There should be a stored or constant check engine light. Get those codes read and go from there. Boost that low is normally either a big leak or ecu initiated "limp" mode

The only one I have currently, v7 sti wagon

Well, it was at a bloody good price, but yeah I'm trying to get my head around how the link software works. Interesting times ahead

Bit the bullet, joined the dark side. As much as it pains me to do so, I bought a link. However, in terms of the upcoming build, I think it was the smartest option.

If you are running the be/bh style sti wagon gold's, those are 7 inch. The diverging spoke "v7" wheels people bang on about are 7.5 wide. I know of people running up to an 8.5 18 inch rims in the states, but they do a fair whack of guard rolling. I know you can fit 17x8 +48's (the v9/10 enkei rim size) without too much issue

little bit of sealer / silicone can help. prime and paint the holes to avoid the boot rusting out. plugging = weld, grind, repaint if wanting to do it properly. but i cant see any reason why you'd want to pull it off again

I would start looking at potentially throttle position sensor, or throttle body. These run electronic throttle body so it's not a too far out idea that the throttle body motors themselves could be failing

Poor man's equal length headers: Subaru legacy 250t headers. Perfect fitment, bolt up, do quite well too. And cheap. Flow about as well as some of the aftermarket stuff too

Closed deck block and crank dropped off with @Subirex Automotive. Crank looks ok, block has some scortching from a piston melting under previous owners care. Block not warped, being checked by ajays machine guy, sounds like +1mm oversize will be required, bit will check if 0.5 works. It's happening.....

A light bar then? :-P

Passengers side, lift the battery out and raise the washer bottle up and out.

@aspre777 is that new location open to general public access?

Yah dif issues all sorted. Turns out loose wheel nuts make a very similar sound to a failing dif, so it definitely pays to check the small things first!! Interested at I come up with as well!! Hahaha Need to get some pictures into my new flikr account and re write the thread, bloody photobucket

Ruptured radiator on the way to work. Dumped coolant all over the waipuna bridge. Leaky head gasket. Very small slow leak. But, as the car got a bit warm, the heads need softness check, crack test and checked for straightness. Planning next steps. Watch this space.